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Oil pan sealing. Stripped bolt holes

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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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Oil pan sealing. Stripped bolt holes

I'm at the point in my build that I'm installing the oil pan. I have a brand new Mazda oil pan and a Garfinkle oil pan brace I'm installing. I made my first attempt tonight, and I made the mistake of not cleaning out the bolt holes with a tap first and ended up stripping a few of the bolt holes (good thing I didn't crack the housings). I'm going to try to put a helicoil in those holes. What are the bolt sizes that they use? Is it a M6x1.00? I'm thinking about also using a Moroso stud kit instead of the bolts included in the Garfinkle brace kit.
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 06:34 PM
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Due to the expermiental nature of most of my engines, i've taken it apart eleven, yes eleven times. over the course i've cross threaded a few myself. what i have done is drilled and tapped the hole. use a M8x1.25 bolt to replace the little guy, and i've not had any issues. just make sure you don't drill too far down or you'll hit the coolant passage.
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 07:30 PM
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Yes, M6x1.0

I ended up using a few helicoils in the front cover on my new engine. Most of the holes were already stripped when I received the engine.

Helicoils are generally stronger than the original threads anyway.
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by afterburn27
Helicoils are generally stronger than the original threads anyway.
If installed properly, but for this application I don't really see any cause for concern using a helicoil.

I didn't realize this was such a common issue, I didn't have any issues installing my excessive pan. Are you guys torquing the bolts to spec or just giving it the ole good-n-tight treatment? torque spec on those bolts is not very much at all.
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 11:47 PM
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From: MTL, QC
I beleive torque spec is 6 ft-lbs, basically a hand tighten not even a wrench tighten.

Spec is M6*1. I had seen somewhere M6*1.5 but using my caliper 5.98mm and using the thread gauge it is 1.0.
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by JHew84
I didn't realize this was such a common issue, I didn't have any issues installing my excessive pan. Are you guys torquing the bolts to spec or just giving it the ole good-n-tight treatment? torque spec on those bolts is not very much at all.
I torqued all mine to spec. The problem was the second hand front cover that came with pre-stripped holes. lol

I just went ahead and helicoiled every oil pan hole in the front cover because none of the threads looked healthy. The threads in my brand new housings were great!
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 06:04 AM
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M6 x 1.0

This is the reason we supply a stud kit and nuts with our brace instead of bolts.
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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 03:18 PM
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Back from the dead...

Is this possible with the motor in the car?
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by silverTRD
Back from the dead...

Is this possible with the motor in the car?
Yes, it is a pain but possible. I have done it twice. (undue all the things preventing the engine from lifting up). undue the exhaust, engine mounts, intercooler piping, intake, etc. Place a jackstand under the transmission, use some blocks of wood to distribute the load better and also as a spacer to lift the engine up. Lift the engine up and be ready for some crappiness on your back. I did it without lowering the subframe as well

I recommend getting a tap to chase every single hole and ensure they are clean. I would then install studs in every single one, I even chased and put studs in the engine mounts. I used import grey RTV for the gasket from right stuff.

Last edited by lOOkatme; Apr 20, 2015 at 08:17 AM.
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