I Noticed The Other Day When I Got Caught In The Rain That My Oil Temps Dropped A Bit. I Figured It Was From Rain Hitting The Bumper And Causing A Mist Effect On The Cooler. Has Anyone Ever Thought Of Making Something Similar To An Intercooler Mist Setup For The Oil Cooler? Or Is That Even Feasable? May Be A Dumb Question But It Has Logic Behind It That Works...

 

that wouldnt actually be a bad idea. You could set it up to work in conjunction with either a water injection setup or a intercooler sprayer setup. I run a dual stage water injection setup on my car and i could prolly make it a three stage system, or even a 4 stage system with a couple extra parts. So that would make 2 for intake track, 1 for intercooler, and 1 for oil cooler. It would be setup to come on at a certain boost level, which is exactly when the oil cooling is needed the most.

Adam

 

The best idea is to just upgrade the oil cooler if you have the need. If you need your oil temps cooler, do it the right way.

 

or charge your sump with R12 lmfao

 

My Oil Temps Actually Are Great And I Usually Dont Dog My Car Until Its Very Hot, But If Theres A Way To Get Temps Even Better Why Not Consider It....

Even If You Went With A Cwr Cooler Setup Or Something It Doesnt Matter, You Could Drop Temp's Even More With Some Kind If Mist Setup, Agreed?

 

this is true, but i have known instances of liquid spraying onto things such as intercoolers collecting and actually BLOCKING air flow instead of aiding it... This is bad.

 

Yeah, I Saw A Thread Where Someone Lost Hp By Doing The Water Injection On Their Fd... Like 5 Hp...

 

Water injection is different to water mist...water injection probably will lose you power but it makes the car more reliable.

Water mist onto intercoolers etc can be worse than normal airflow.

 

That Is What He Had Said, That He Lost Power But It Was More Reliable...

 

What are your temps otherwise. On hot days when getting into it a little, I'll see MAYBE 185. Are you an R1/2 or otherwise have duals? That would probably make the difference.

 

Nope Im A Base Model With Only One Cooler, My Temps Usually Stay Around 185 As Well....

 

1. There is a good way to do it, and there are bad ways to do it. You should only look to some type of water solution when there is no hardware available to do the job. There are many options for cooling oil and no one has ever needed anything else.

2. You still want your oil to be a certain temperature (i.e. not too cold). The lubricating properties of oil work best at it's heat range (which is probably a little different for each oil type/weight). This is also why it's not a good idea to run heavy weighted oils in colder climates.

 

Thanks Mahjik, That Does Make Alot Of Sense When Put Into That Perspective...

 

But While On This Note, Is It Feasable To Just Upgrade To Another Cooler From Say An R1 Or Spend The Extra Dough For Something Like A Cwr Setup. For Basically Daily Driving That Is? I Believe That My Onw Cooler Is Enough For The Way That I Drive The Car But For In The Future When I Start Looking For Other Projects Once The Car Is Running Correctly...

 

Yes, you can upgrade to the R1 setup which is usually more cooling than most drivers require. However, the stock parts can be expensive unless you find someone parting out the dual oil cooler setup (whether from a wreck, engine conversion, or whatever).

 

Right On, Thanks For Your Always Helpful Advice... Also Do You Know If Its True That The Secondary Injectors Come Online @ 2750 Rpms?

 

The injectors are staged; as in there isn't a set "they come on exactly at XXXX rpms". It depends on a few things as to when they come online:

http://www.wvinter.net/~flanham/wlan...l/staging.html

 

That Makes Sense, I Wonder If My Secondaries Are Flowing Too Much Fuel When Coming On With The Primaries...

 

The only way to know for sure is to hook up a wideband O2 and check the AFR's.

 

Well Cam Had The Car On The Dyno For A Week With A Wideband And Wasnt Not Able To Find Out Why Its Dumping The Fuel Right Before Transition. We Checked All The Sensors Checked The Fuel Flow Rate Etc, Benched The Injectors, Swapped Ecu's And Everything...

 

If the problem really is too much fuel at a certain point, then the problem is one or more components with the fuel system (if you switched ECU's and the problem is still there).

 

Yeh Thats What We Are Leaning Towards Now. Even After I Got Back Home I Ordered And Installed A New Wiring Harness Which Caused No Change At All, But Its Still Money Well Spent Only $600! So I Contacted Cam Because That Is What He Recommended Next For Troubleshooting, And He In Turn Then Recommended Replacing The Secondary Fuel Injectors As Well Did My Certified Rotary Tech. Here At Work. So In A Very Nice Geture From Cam He Sent Me A Secondary Fuel Rail With A Known Good Set Of Secondaries, And An A Fpr Overnight To Swap Into The Car To See If It Will Help The Problem...