Oil!!!!!!
#7
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally posted by SoCalLove
I just switched to Mobil 1 15w-50. I revved her and it sounded like she said, "its about time." hmm...
I just switched to Mobil 1 15w-50. I revved her and it sounded like she said, "its about time." hmm...
If your motor is saying such things to you, you're either:
(a) very imaginative
(b) a little bit crazy
or
(c) Your motor is on it's way out regardless of what oil you're using.
Get a compression check if you're worried.
Trending Topics
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 415
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Who has actually been using synthetic for an extended period of time? How long? How many miles? Do you drive like an old person? Has anything blown up yet? The reason I ask is because I want to try but I can't get over the fact that the people who built this car specificly said not to use synthetics in the manual. Maybe things have changed, have you had luck with it?
-Charlie
-Charlie
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Medina, Ohio
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Now I know why you old timers get pissed off at us newbies. I've seen this discussed at least 5 times since I've been a member here. I've even posted about it. There truly is a ton of info here if one searches.
#12
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: SoCal, San Diego
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I baby my FD and I tend to drive like an oldie. Never going past 3k rpm, never going over 80mph, rarely rarely ever redlinging.
But then when some idiot in a bling bling suv rides my tail, I shift mad quick.
But then when some idiot in a bling bling suv rides my tail, I shift mad quick.
#13
Originally posted by GoodfellaFD3S
I've been using Mobil1 15w50 for over a year and 20k miles, driving the hell out of the car. The full synthetic lowered engine temps by a measured and consistent 10 degrees Fahrenheit and seems to help the turbos spool better.
If your motor is saying such things to you, you're either:
(a) very imaginative
(b) a little bit crazy
or
(c) Your motor is on it's way out regardless of what oil you're using.
Get a compression check if you're worried.
I've been using Mobil1 15w50 for over a year and 20k miles, driving the hell out of the car. The full synthetic lowered engine temps by a measured and consistent 10 degrees Fahrenheit and seems to help the turbos spool better.
If your motor is saying such things to you, you're either:
(a) very imaginative
(b) a little bit crazy
or
(c) Your motor is on it's way out regardless of what oil you're using.
Get a compression check if you're worried.
#14
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Aliso Viejo, CA
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just an observation on the old organic vs. synthetic issue...(I've read several of those threads, but haven't heard anyone mention this).
Mazda at some point in the past said "Don't use synthetic in rotaries" as we all know. The theory that I've heard is it has to do with synthetic being more resistant to ignition, or just not burning as cleanly as organic, and since the rotary injects oil into the combustion chamber, that's an issue (correct me if I'm wrong). So, this would seem to be an issue with any rotary, not just turbo rotaries, right?
Well, here's the part noone seems to mention: Mazda, in the specs for the Star Mazda (Forumla Mazda) spec race series specifically *requires* synthetic oil to be used in the motors of the cars...Now it's possible that synthetic has benefit/deficit charecteristics that make it better than organic in a race environment, but less so on the street, but I doubt it. It would even seem to me that if Mazda's requirement for the series of synthetic indicates that syn is good for the rotary, it would be THAT MUCH BETTER in a turbo application where synthetic would make an even bigger difference.
Ok, that's my argument...anyone have an argument to the contrary? And btw, why the hell have I never seen the Star Mazda argument presented before?
TIA for any info...
Mazda at some point in the past said "Don't use synthetic in rotaries" as we all know. The theory that I've heard is it has to do with synthetic being more resistant to ignition, or just not burning as cleanly as organic, and since the rotary injects oil into the combustion chamber, that's an issue (correct me if I'm wrong). So, this would seem to be an issue with any rotary, not just turbo rotaries, right?
Well, here's the part noone seems to mention: Mazda, in the specs for the Star Mazda (Forumla Mazda) spec race series specifically *requires* synthetic oil to be used in the motors of the cars...Now it's possible that synthetic has benefit/deficit charecteristics that make it better than organic in a race environment, but less so on the street, but I doubt it. It would even seem to me that if Mazda's requirement for the series of synthetic indicates that syn is good for the rotary, it would be THAT MUCH BETTER in a turbo application where synthetic would make an even bigger difference.
Ok, that's my argument...anyone have an argument to the contrary? And btw, why the hell have I never seen the Star Mazda argument presented before?
TIA for any info...
#15
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: SoCal, San Diego
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey fluxen,
I forgot which oil thread, but someone did bring up the fact that mazdas race division specifically uses syn. It makes you think cause he went on to say how is mazda gunna bring this issue up for the rx-8.
Com'on mazda, swallow yer pride, its all good. We like zoom zoom.
I forgot which oil thread, but someone did bring up the fact that mazdas race division specifically uses syn. It makes you think cause he went on to say how is mazda gunna bring this issue up for the rx-8.
Com'on mazda, swallow yer pride, its all good. We like zoom zoom.
#16
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Aliso Viejo, CA
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, here are the specs for the Star Mazda series...Note, non-syn in the tranny...I have no idea why that is...
Edit - Also note specific mention of Water Wetter...
ENGINE
Oil brand and viscosity: Any Synthetic. Minimum 30 Weight
Oil capacity and change intervals: Engine Full on dipstick, change oil and filter about every two to three races or every six hours of running time.
Coolant: Water with Water Wetter.
Timing: Recommended 22deg. adv. DO NOT EXCEED 24 DEG. ADV.!!!
From distributor side. Facing the back of the car.
Four hash marks - 10 - 0 - 10 - 20
Three hash marks - 0 - 10 - 20
TRANSMISSION
Oil brand and viscosity: 85/90 weight non synthetic - Valvoline is in the car.
Oil capacity and change intervals: Change oil every time gear change/inspection. Fill to one knuckle down from side plug (1.5 quarts maximum)
Edit - Also note specific mention of Water Wetter...
ENGINE
Oil brand and viscosity: Any Synthetic. Minimum 30 Weight
Oil capacity and change intervals: Engine Full on dipstick, change oil and filter about every two to three races or every six hours of running time.
Coolant: Water with Water Wetter.
Timing: Recommended 22deg. adv. DO NOT EXCEED 24 DEG. ADV.!!!
From distributor side. Facing the back of the car.
Four hash marks - 10 - 0 - 10 - 20
Three hash marks - 0 - 10 - 20
TRANSMISSION
Oil brand and viscosity: 85/90 weight non synthetic - Valvoline is in the car.
Oil capacity and change intervals: Change oil every time gear change/inspection. Fill to one knuckle down from side plug (1.5 quarts maximum)
#17
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally posted by SoCalLove
I baby my FD and I tend to drive like an oldie. Never going past 3k rpm, never going over 80mph, rarely rarely ever redlinging.
But then when some idiot in a bling bling suv rides my tail, I shift mad quick.
I baby my FD and I tend to drive like an oldie. Never going past 3k rpm, never going over 80mph, rarely rarely ever redlinging.
But then when some idiot in a bling bling suv rides my tail, I shift mad quick.
Translation: Rev that **** to 8 grand at least once a day, Dammit
Been doing this for almost 4 years and over 60k miles and my FD runs strong...
#18
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: SoCal, San Diego
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by GoodfellaFD3S
I have heard stories of excessive carbon deposits necessitating a premature rebuild due to constant minimal rpm use; usually in the case of slushbox FDs.
Translation: Rev that **** to 8 grand at least once a day, Dammit
Been doing this for almost 4 years and over 60k miles and my FD runs strong...
I have heard stories of excessive carbon deposits necessitating a premature rebuild due to constant minimal rpm use; usually in the case of slushbox FDs.
Translation: Rev that **** to 8 grand at least once a day, Dammit
Been doing this for almost 4 years and over 60k miles and my FD runs strong...
Hmmm, rev that **** to 8g's at least once a day. Kinda like a glass of wine a day will help prevent heart cancer.
Hmmm....
#20
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: sunnyvale, Ca
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Post *****
When I first read this I thought crap no again. but now I did not know Mazda is using synth in a race rotory. I thought the basic issue was with byproducts of combustion from synth, now it's not so clear. We all know the synth does have superior lubrication properties and higher flash point.
I guess it just goes to show you can't discuss anything too much. Except of course that stock mount is better than front mount.
It also goes to show I'll post **** just to roll up my post count.
I guess it just goes to show you can't discuss anything too much. Except of course that stock mount is better than front mount.
It also goes to show I'll post **** just to roll up my post count.
#23
I'm a CF and poop smith
Originally posted by GoodfellaFD3S
I have heard stories of excessive carbon deposits necessitating a premature rebuild due to constant minimal rpm use; usually in the case of slushbox FDs.
Translation: Rev that **** to 8 grand at least once a day, Dammit
Been doing this for almost 4 years and over 60k miles and my FD runs strong...
I have heard stories of excessive carbon deposits necessitating a premature rebuild due to constant minimal rpm use; usually in the case of slushbox FDs.
Translation: Rev that **** to 8 grand at least once a day, Dammit
Been doing this for almost 4 years and over 60k miles and my FD runs strong...
Once you get your engine broken in, I totally agree although you might not want to do it every day, at least once a month if not once a week, you should be going to redline! Plus it's hella fun
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
troym55
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
23
05-25-16 12:42 PM
tiger18
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
9
09-03-15 08:27 PM