Don't you just love buying a car someone didn't take care of? Jerry-rigged everything up so it "kindaaa" works? Well, my friend, that is my situation! I bought this car at an amazing price for the parts it came with and the modifications. (93 base) but it came with some downsides.

After replacing the torched springs with coil overs, no more than 2 hours later, the headlights went... up, down... up down up down up... and its stuck there. Key off, headlights go down, key on, headlights up and on. I've checked the relay and it works. The motors are fine, obviouslyyyy.

BUT WAIT! There's moreeee.

The PO bought a carbon fiber instrument panel, dash "hood", radio surround, etc. Cutting out all the glue he put on there to make it "work" I added the proper amount of screws, granted he hadn't broke off the mounting tabs, and tried to get it clean looking. My heater controls never worked, but finally I had everything plugged in! Okay, it should work now... RIGHT!?

Key on.... headlights up... of course. andddd lets turn the fan to 1... wait... that blower motor sounds odd.... of course it does cause its the cooling fan at the radiator! Okay, setting 2, cooling fan off, nothing from the blower motor.

If anyone has any quick checks, fixes, etc I will praise you forever!

- Carson

 

Lowered car means this is more likely. Check this harness. This body harness controls much of what you're having issues with.

chafing body harness

Matt

 

You have the fun job of tracing wire. You can download the wiring diagram and manual in PDF format. You can prob sort it all out with a weeks vacation.

 

Thank you Matt! I'm pulling the wheel off and fender liner out now.

 

Well, I pulled the fender completely off on the driver side. Didn't find much as far as bare wires showing. Turned the key on, headlights pop up and turn on. Shook the loom and nothing changed. Should I give the passenger side the same treatment?

 

CPU #2. Could this be giving me my issues? Also, the plug on the bottom is out, and has a wire that runs to the starter???

 

If your lights are popping ups and when turn to the on position then it seems like the previous owner might have wired the button to the ignition power, take your gauge cluster off and have a look at the light pop up button wiring and see if there are wires leading to the ignition directly or the button might be faulty and sticking to the "On" position.

 

The front harness goes through the passenger side fender well behind the liner. First rule of troubleshooting is you need to know where the wiring is that controls the systems you are trying to troubleshoot.
Again... Get into the wiring diagram, it's on a PDF. You will then know where in the car the wiring for those systems run, what the color of the wires are you need to trace and only then will you know where to look and what to look for.

 

Update: I pulled the 8-pin plug from CPU #2 just to see what happened. Headlights don't act up. Come on like normal, and now the hazard clicking goes from fast, to faster when pressing the hazard button. Whereas before pressing the hazards did nothing.

Time to keep diving into the wiring!

 

I modified my car to automatically turn its headlights or park lights (whatever exterior lights are on) off whenever I turn the key off and exit the car.

This stops the battery draining as its now impossible to leave the lights on by accident. The car takes care of it for me.

When I come back to the car and put the key in, the headlights or parklights come back on and remember their previous state. I did this with nothing more than an ordinary 40 amp, 4 pin relay and some very minor quick wiring at the steering column.

Maybe someone has tried to do this too, but in a much poorer, unreliable way? Previous owner?

Just a thought..

 

Yeah not a bad idea, however, this just randomly started, but unplugging that 8 pin connection seems to have done the trick!

 

I wish you look I your research ,take your time with the multimeter, you'll find it eventually