have any of you guys had your nonsequential setup done at a shop and i mean a reputable rotary mechanic. How much did it cost or how much should it cost. Any help would be greatly appriciated thanks.

 

You can do a NS poorman's conversion in about 30 minutes yourself. Cost next to nothing.

Or, you can do a full conversion, including replacing the exh manifold and modifying the Y-pipe. Having that done in a shop would require the removal of the turbos, so figure about $1000. If you want WG porting and/or to take off the intake manifold to remove the whole rat nest, figure an other close to $1000 bucks.

You should do a poorman's just to see if you like it over the sequential setup.

Albert

 

Whats do i have to do to do the poor man NS conversion.

 

http://web.archive.org/web/200301091...i.com/id49.htm


You can find more useful information in the stickies at the top. I agree with axr6, try it out first.

 

if you want i might have fully non seq FD twins with low miles and 0 shaft play?

 

I'm just wrapping up a full NS conversion and consider this a good DIY job. Or mostly DIY, depending on your tools.

No need to replace the manifold; you just cut out the flapper and either weld up the hole or block it with a bolt.

There are a bunch of little items that can add up, especially if your gaskets and studs need to be replaced. But don't be afraid of this job if you're not in a hurry and know which end of the screwdriver to hold. All the info you need is on the web.

My project has cost about $2k, but that's WAY past the NS conversion. We're talking about serviced injectors, a PFC, new PLX wideband, ceramic coatings, supplies to rewrap the harness, etc. I'd bet you could do this under $500 if things go well. And being able to redo the entire vacuum system in 30 minutes makes it well worthwhile.

 

http://web.archive.org/web/200301091...i.com/id49.htm

This is about as simple as a project gets. When I tried it I simply unbolted the turbo actuator, removed the linkage from the exhaust flapper and wire tied the flapper open. Also, just used a plastic tie rap to tie the removed actuator to the subframe temporarily so I did not have to disconnect any of the boost or vacum line from it.

Good luck,

Albert

 

I am running the Dontbearikki non seq setup..Look it up on a search found it to be the best way..