suganuma

im going non-sequential this weekend
wondering if anyone has ANY advice or info to pass along as far as vacuum line routing and which solenoids to leave/remove as well as how to control boost using the power FC - ie which solenoid to leave connected - wastegate or precontrol - to control it.

charts would be very helpful...

thanks

theman

Wastegate hose is the only one you leave connected and that stays connected to the solenoid on the right where it originally goes I believe... Its so easy when I'm looking at them but you better double check what I type. The PFC controls the boost nicely, just remember change the seq. boost setting to off, which is the symbol that's not the one it's set to originally.

Rotary93

1. Take the air box out, and the 2 hoses that supply air to the turbos.

2. Take the blow off valve and charge relief valve off

3. Disconnect the vacuum line to the charge relief valve and cap it at the upper manifold.

4. T into the blow off valve´s vacuum line, and run a new line to the old charge releif valve.

5. Remove all vacuum lines to the charge control valve on the rear of the Y pipe. This should dissable the butterfly in the Y... keeping it open always. Besure to cap all the removed vacuum lines to the manifold and Y pipe.

6. Jack up the car, support it with jack stands, and take off the front passenger side tire (this makes it tons easier to get under and out of the car.)

7. Remove the head sheilding to the under neath of the turbo (should be 5-6 10mm nuts and bolts)

8. Remove the keeper pin from the actuator rod and seperate the rod from the door mechanism. Wire the door open. I ran a wire around the actuator around the door lever and back about 3 times. (tip: with the car off, the door is closed. to open it, it should be rotated towards the front of the car)

9. Remove the vacuum lines to the Turbo Pre Control actuator, remove the rod to the door, and wire it open. Make sure to cap all loose lines.

10. Leave the direct pressure line (the one with the restrictor) on the Wastegate actuator.

11. Resinstall all your intake hoses, make sure it is all tightened, and take it for a spin around the block

7-sins

-I pulled off the TCA & plugged lines

-Wired the door open

-Pulled off Charge Control lines & plugged

-Pulled off Turbo Pre-control lines & plugged
(You can either do this or wire the door open, I just saved myself some time because you can plug the line w/o going underneath the car. Just trace the line to its solenoid and plug it there.)

-Pulled off Charge Relief vacuum line & plugged
(People say to tap this into the line with the Air Bypass Valve.... I have a HKS SSQV insted so it will be able to hold then release all the boost.)

-Switched the Wastegate solenoid line to the Turbo Pre-Control solenoid (For boost control with the Power FC.)

suganuma

im not doing the poormans conversion

i have non sequential rebuild turbos that im installing. what i mainly had questions about is what lines i need to keep - like anything out of the ordinary that i wouldnt expect thats rx7 specific or something.

thanks for the info and initiative though - im sure someone will appreciate and be able to make use of it. that someone would ahve been me if i wouldnt have found these turbos last week.

SleepR1

You'll be ruining the FD's wonderful torque band??

suganuma

several reasons

simplify turbo system
reduce/eliminate time spent(wasted) on boost troubleshooting
smooth uninterrupted powerband
blah blah blah.....you know the benefits.

more importantly its a bridge step to going single. i will probably go with the apexi unit or something somewhat like it with a good lower end so i still have a wide powerband and all of that torque for coming out of corners, etc. a move to non sequential allows me to tune the car using other EMS that arent so sequential friendly such as the haltech E6k. when i go single i want to be able to at least have the option to run an ecu with datalogging and more flexibility than is currently available to the public with the power FC. an example is the troubles everyone is having running the 1600cc injectors when the power FC maxxes out on its settings with 1500cc. requires the use of resistors and from what i understand tuning gets all crazy and funkified.....

sure there are cars running high HP setups with the power fc and who knows.....i may stick with it. i just want the option of turning to something else if i so choose.

im really looking forward to getting rid of all of this clutter though.....

simple is good!

KZ1

don't do it man, we don;t want to loose another one because they can;t fix boost problems. just go look at dyno jet graphs of sequential and non-sequential. I would rather have a complicated system than those power curves.

SleepR1

FWIW, I'm still running my original hoses in the sequential solenoid system of my '93 R1. I haven't had a failure with any of the hoses popping off and crippling my boost. My R1 has 92,000 miles. I've had a downpipe installed since 40,000 miles, so perhaps the lower underhood temps with the downpipe has allowed me such reliability with the sequential system?

Mazda engineers have designed a wonderful sequential turbo system. It provides a very wide torque band, with usable torque from 2800 to 6000 rpm! That's broad for a turbo car! Out on a road racing circuit my car's throttle response feels very similar to a normally aspirated, BMW Inline-6 motor's throttle response. There is virtually no boost lag with the stock FD's sequential system; and I won't be surprised by all 250 (350 for the single turbo guys) horsepower coming on at 3500 rpm, while I'm STILL apexing a corner!

Personally, I feel going non-sequential or with a large single turbo detracts from the FD's road-racing-bred performance. Going single or non-sequential really hampers the car's day-to-day performance when cruising around between 2000 and 3000 rpm, which is very common.

Good luck with the conversion!

NoRice

I bought my 93 with 47k miles. (I had the downpipe and boost gauge installed almost immediately.) The 2nd turbo rarely worked. If I let off, then got back on, it would normally kick in. However, from a stop light trying to run through the gears, forget it.

July 2001, I took it to KD Rotary.

APEX PowerFC
Non-Seq mod
Remaining vacum hoses replaced with Silicone and tie wrapped.
AST Removal
Fan mod
Fuel Filter relocation

The Non-Sequential is slow from a start, but no worse than it was. (I only had a secondary turbo problem, so I don't think this has anything to do with it.)

I Rotary engine is just severly lacking Torque. You have to learn to live with it. No, I don't care to do 5k rpm launches. I'm used to big torquey V-8's, where the launch technique is to let the clutch out and then floor it, nuf said.

I would NEVER go back to the headaches of the stock sequential system.

Before these mods, twice I had vacum lines come off and ruin my fun for the day at Mid-Ohio. No more!

Also, the engine compartment is MUCH cleaner. You can now actually tell that there is an Engine in there! Wow! Now for a battery relocation, new intake, and air pump removal.

SleepR1

NO TEXT

suganuma

appears theres been some confusion in why im doing this....

i DO NOT have any sequential boost problems. i once did but i redid all of my vacuum lines one saturday and everything was good to go. i plan on going single in the future - probably a small one b/c i do plan on doing some road racing, etc. i want power but im not turning over a new leaf to make the car into a drag car with a huge turbo. for a while i will have to "suffer" the non-existant low end of the non-sequential mod, but it allows me to make a bridge point so i can financially and mechanically step my way up to putting a single on. like i said it will be a turbo similar to the apexi setup that spools quickly. if anyone has seen the power band of stock sequentials next to that of the same car afterward with the apexi unit you get fully spooled at still around 2500-3000 rpm but then the apexi unit pulls away from the twins in terms of power.
granted i wont have 500 rwhp@6500 rpm but ill response near that of the twins with a better top and midrange.

im interested in how the turbos will respond in parallel....ive heard i should expect around 25 more hp in the midrange and some more power up top which all sounds good to me. when driving around town i take it easy and thats when im in the lower rpms. when im racing someone im up higher in the revs so i dont THINK it will be a noticeable loss.....maybe a gain.

ill be sure to post a review.

just wanted to make sure yall knew i wasnt just doing this to be lazy b/c i dont want to deal with the sequential problems.....ive been there done that and i want to try something new and take a step forward with the car.

i DO however look forward to being able to remove the UIM and get IN the engine without all of the clutter - run bigger injectors/fuel rail, etc.
i will also be installing some of SPYFISH's (some free advertisement for carson) block off plates. maybe i can get some before and after pics too.

guess thats the end of my short novel for now......

alaskan7

http://home.gci.net/~bob/nonseq_vac_lines.jpg

This helped me when I did my conversion, credit goes to Spigot (Matt) for making this diagram

KZ1

makes sense, good luck, but have you ever thought of high flow twins, like the M2s?

suganuma

yes.....actually i did consider doing something like that but not so extreme. i was going to have them rebuilt and either have different custom internals put in (heard there are lots of troubles with this) or just get the wheels clipped and the wastegate ported and all on my turbos i have now. i just didnt want to take them apart since they do have a warranty under mazda since they remanufactured them and they have less than 10k miles on em. i figure a good setup with a single will be more interesting....mayb egive me some more room on that side of the engine as well.

to each his own i guess.....

kwikrx7

What's wrong with a non-sequential powerband curve? It's smooth the whole way up. You do lose a little low end and on the highway you don't have the passing power in higher gears like with sequentials (have to downshift) But racing is a different story. It pulls like a freight train all the way to redline. I get full boost by 3900-4000 rpms in all gears. It's a tradeoff. With all the troubles of the stock system I'd never go back. But if you like immediate throttle response and don't like to downshift - sequential is for you. There is more hp and torque in midrange (4K-6K) If I had a choice to pick between the two froma a start then I'd go with the sequentials since I like throttle response and immediate turbo spool for just driving around town (2-3K) But for simplicity and good power (while racing) I like non-sequential.

KZ1

The only reason sequentials have a bit lower power at some points of mid-range is because of the transition it makes. I have PFC, and with MP you can virtually eliinate boost drops at transition. as far as pulling hard on top end, the stock systems goes non-seq when in a racing style driving, until drops below 3k or so. If you are racing sequential and non-seq are the same. If you are tooling around on streets sequential has more power. period. non-seq is simple that is all.