No spark at Leading Colis
No spark at Leading Colis
Hey guys,
So tried to start up my fresh build and wouldn't start, so went through everything and began testing for spark, Im getting spark at the trailing plugs but not on my stock leading plugs, so thought it was a faulty coil so replaced the leading coil that has been tested and is working and still the same condition, I am running a Apexi PFC and single turbo, Im getting fuel and everything else is working.
I did rewire the ECU harness, now my question is should I rewire the leading coil wiring again from the ECU or should I rewire the coil ignitor or both?
Also another question, does the APEXI PFC spark all 4 plugs or just the leading like the Microtech, reason for asking is maybe a wired the coil the wrong way around.
So tried to start up my fresh build and wouldn't start, so went through everything and began testing for spark, Im getting spark at the trailing plugs but not on my stock leading plugs, so thought it was a faulty coil so replaced the leading coil that has been tested and is working and still the same condition, I am running a Apexi PFC and single turbo, Im getting fuel and everything else is working.
I did rewire the ECU harness, now my question is should I rewire the leading coil wiring again from the ECU or should I rewire the coil ignitor or both?
Also another question, does the APEXI PFC spark all 4 plugs or just the leading like the Microtech, reason for asking is maybe a wired the coil the wrong way around.
Last edited by RuffRx7; Apr 5, 2016 at 03:22 AM.
Since you stated in a previous thread that you ate through your driver's side fender liner and harness, you need to start there. The igniter wires are located right next to the map sensor wires that you recently replaced.
Perfect yes just checked the pin out, so will replace the both trailing and leading just to be sure they weren't mixed up and if this doesn't work could it be the ignitor or would it not fire at all if it was faulty?
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Ignition wires run through the body harness so it is very possible that you rubbed through some of them and/or fried the igniter or even the ecu. I have seen this happen many times.
Easiest thing to check is the actual ignition harness to the coils. It becomes brittle with age and from oil spilling on it. If you have any doubt replace it. The newer version is updated and won't have the extra ground.
Do a continuity test for all the ignition wires from the ecu side of the harness all the way to the grey connectors by the driver's side shock tower. If there is no continuity you have a break in the wires somewhere. If it passes the test check continuity from those connectors to the igniter and also to the battery/starter/alternator harness that the coil harness connects to.
You can also test the igniter per the factory service manual. If everything is good you most likely fried the ecu. Seen it happen many times. Check your wheel fitment and ride height to prevent it from happening again.
Easiest thing to check is the actual ignition harness to the coils. It becomes brittle with age and from oil spilling on it. If you have any doubt replace it. The newer version is updated and won't have the extra ground.
Do a continuity test for all the ignition wires from the ecu side of the harness all the way to the grey connectors by the driver's side shock tower. If there is no continuity you have a break in the wires somewhere. If it passes the test check continuity from those connectors to the igniter and also to the battery/starter/alternator harness that the coil harness connects to.
You can also test the igniter per the factory service manual. If everything is good you most likely fried the ecu. Seen it happen many times. Check your wheel fitment and ride height to prevent it from happening again.
Ignition wires run through the body harness so it is very possible that you rubbed through some of them and/or fried the igniter or even the ecu. I have seen this happen many times.
Easiest thing to check is the actual ignition harness to the coils. It becomes brittle with age and from oil spilling on it. If you have any doubt replace it. The newer version is updated and won't have the extra ground.
Do a continuity test for all the ignition wires from the ecu side of the harness all the way to the grey connectors by the driver's side shock tower. If there is no continuity you have a break in the wires somewhere. If it passes the test check continuity from those connectors to the igniter and also to the battery/starter/alternator harness that the coil harness connects to.
You can also test the igniter per the factory service manual. If everything is good you most likely fried the ecu. Seen it happen many times. Check your wheel fitment and ride height to prevent it from happening again.
Easiest thing to check is the actual ignition harness to the coils. It becomes brittle with age and from oil spilling on it. If you have any doubt replace it. The newer version is updated and won't have the extra ground.
Do a continuity test for all the ignition wires from the ecu side of the harness all the way to the grey connectors by the driver's side shock tower. If there is no continuity you have a break in the wires somewhere. If it passes the test check continuity from those connectors to the igniter and also to the battery/starter/alternator harness that the coil harness connects to.
You can also test the igniter per the factory service manual. If everything is good you most likely fried the ecu. Seen it happen many times. Check your wheel fitment and ride height to prevent it from happening again.
Last edited by RuffRx7; Apr 8, 2016 at 02:14 AM.
Ignition wires run through the body harness so it is very possible that you rubbed through some of them and/or fried the igniter or even the ecu. I have seen this happen many times.
Easiest thing to check is the actual ignition harness to the coils. It becomes brittle with age and from oil spilling on it. If you have any doubt replace it. The newer version is updated and won't have the extra ground.
Do a continuity test for all the ignition wires from the ecu side of the harness all the way to the grey connectors by the driver's side shock tower. If there is no continuity you have a break in the wires somewhere. If it passes the test check continuity from those connectors to the igniter and also to the battery/starter/alternator harness that the coil harness connects to.
You can also test the igniter per the factory service manual. If everything is good you most likely fried the ecu. Seen it happen many times. Check your wheel fitment and ride height to prevent it from happening again.
Easiest thing to check is the actual ignition harness to the coils. It becomes brittle with age and from oil spilling on it. If you have any doubt replace it. The newer version is updated and won't have the extra ground.
Do a continuity test for all the ignition wires from the ecu side of the harness all the way to the grey connectors by the driver's side shock tower. If there is no continuity you have a break in the wires somewhere. If it passes the test check continuity from those connectors to the igniter and also to the battery/starter/alternator harness that the coil harness connects to.
You can also test the igniter per the factory service manual. If everything is good you most likely fried the ecu. Seen it happen many times. Check your wheel fitment and ride height to prevent it from happening again.
Guys just a quick question, is it safe to start up my car on the stock ECU and let it idle, I just want to start it to burn out all of the engine build grease and check if I have any leaks etc, my mods for the car are in my signature, this will be while my Apexi ECU is being repaired.
As long as your primary injectors are 550cc, it should start and idle fine. No reason to worry about it, just don't drive and get into full boost.
You may have a check engine light come on if you have emissions removed.
Oh, if you have a non-stock MAP sensor like a GM 3-bar, it won't run right. You would need a stock MAP sensor.
Dale
You may have a check engine light come on if you have emissions removed.
Oh, if you have a non-stock MAP sensor like a GM 3-bar, it won't run right. You would need a stock MAP sensor.
Dale
As long as your primary injectors are 550cc, it should start and idle fine. No reason to worry about it, just don't drive and get into full boost.
You may have a check engine light come on if you have emissions removed.
Oh, if you have a non-stock MAP sensor like a GM 3-bar, it won't run right. You would need a stock MAP sensor.
Dale
You may have a check engine light come on if you have emissions removed.
Oh, if you have a non-stock MAP sensor like a GM 3-bar, it won't run right. You would need a stock MAP sensor.
Dale
Got the car started no problem, but there is a problem with my clutch so will need to sort that out but at least it started 
Thanks for all the help guys really appreciate it.

Thanks for all the help guys really appreciate it.
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