rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

Hi guys,

Well, this one has me worried.
Vacuum accel. normal, but as soon as I try to boost, partial throttle or wot, the car chokes and backfires.
The backfires (always a group) lead me to believe that ample fuel is in the chamber. It will only backfire, and not accelerate as long as I am applying throttle. It seems like the intake is being clogged up. But, the primary tube isn't collapsing because I can not even gradually pass 0 psi. Check engine light is on now.

Checked my map sensor. Car has been parked for ~4 days, changed coolant and cleaned engine bay....but I really don't see anything that I could have dislodged. Also made sure the O2 sensor is connected.


Thanks for the ideas,


Raj

Sonny

Did you see what CEL code is present?

Sonny

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

What is the CEL?
Is that an Apex-i term?
I am a PFS supporter. And I am searching right now on how to check the 'code' via flashes....or something.



It should not be turbo related, because I can hear them build pressure and blow off, up until 0~1 psi.

Raj

Snook

iTrader: (12)

touch the gnd and ten together with a paperclip in the black diag box. then go in the car and turn it to power on. a long hold light =10 and a short one is 1 then add up the #s and check the code

computer may be fried

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yes check for codes, there are several that will do exactly what you describe and dont turn on the check engine light

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

Alright, got the code...thanks Snook.

1 long
1 short
2 long
7 short

Total - 3 long, 8 short....

38 = ????

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

Just started my car in the garage, didn't drive it yet.

Boost built to ~4 w/no backfiring. (well, one big one when I let off).

I think my map sensor hose was leaking...I just replaced it and no check engine light.

I will report back once I take it out for a ride.

Raj

obviousboy

They are in sequence
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/engine_codes.html

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

11= Intake air thermosensor (engine)
27= Metering oil pump

Sonny

Code 11 = Air temp sensor
Code 27 = Oil metering pump

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

Thank you all for the help.

Both those codes......just out of the blue! I havn't been messing with either one of those (in months).


Still havn't driven it, but before I do I will check my OMP vac hoses and temp sensor connection.



Raj

charliegt

I had a similar problem. The car had gone into limp mode due to the codes. To get the car out of limp mode, reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and holding the brake for 30 seconds. The odds are there is a reason it is going into limp mode though, so it will happen again unless you fix it. Check out those codes.

-Charlie

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

Sincere thanks to all you guys pointing me in the right direction. A search wouldn't have helped because I did not know to start with 'limp mode', so again, Thanks.

So it is my OMP, and I am searching for a used one. But, now,

How likely is it to fail and not leak? I traced the wires up with my fingers and don't feel any tears, but the OMP it self is clean....no oil drippage at all.

Thanks,

Raj

Godzilla-T78

raj stop being a woosie and get a pfc and premix

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

Come on Matt, I can't leave my boy PFS out in the cold!

I will call you and come by...not in the 7 though.




Alright crew, now I have searched for this and only gotten very vague descriptions on replacing the OMP.

There are 3 screws (I have read) and I got the 2 up top that are parallel to one another under the WP. But now, where is the 3rd?
Is it only possible to get this whole unit from the bottom? So would raising the car be the next step?

This is a bitch!! I will take pics and make a good how too if you guys help me.


Thanks,
Raj

ejmack1

Ill give you mine if you buy me a block off plate and pay shipping

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

TTT.

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

Well guys, I gave up. My car will be in limp mode for an undetermined amount of time. I don't see how to possibly do this without dropping the subframe. Of course, if you have a single turbo it makes the task exponentially easier. Also, buy one of those Craftsmen wrenches with the open notch at the open end so you don't have to re-attach the thing every 1/16 turn.

3 bolts hold the OMP on the side of the engine, so it sticks out towards the pass. front wheel. The top 2 bolts are reletivley easy, but the bottom one is toward the back of the car and you can not see it. And, the space back there to work with is.....impossible.

My plan is to go for the 5-6 hrs. Pettit quoted me and install a used one.

Good luck to the next victim....sorry I could not make the 'how to'.




Raj

ejmack1

need a used one!?

3rdgensleeper

iTrader: (10)

i might pm me if you still have it

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

Spoke to Pettit again today. And also ordered a low mileage one from J.S.J hear on the forum ($55 can't beat that with a stick).

Told Pettit that I had the part and I had unrouted the wire from around the alt. and checked the oil lines for leaks...all good.
They said it would be Min. 2.5 hrs and most likely no more then 4 hrs. to install. Thier rate is $70/hr. So, I am thinking $300. Pettit also told me that they rebuild them and sell them regularly @ $300. I did not go into it much, because I already ordered one, but sounds like they would offer a very close to new part with a warrenty, for those intrested.

Anyway, I really wish I could do this myself and am still open to suggestions from people who have done the task with the stock turbo heat shields in place.

Raj

ejmack1

Its honestly a pain in the ***, regardless of what kind of setup you have. I dont even know if its possible with the stock turbos in place without a gazillinoi swivel extensions...

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

I GOT IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Alright guys, the new one is still on the way..but in the mean time I finally got mine out. It is a beast, and I was going about getting that last bolt the wrong way.

For future 'search' users, here I will list detailed instructions on how to do this your self. Scan this article for terms/acronyms you are unfamiliar with, and research them to find out exactly what I am talking about.


1) You have to access both top and bottom angles, so jack up front of car.

2) Remove: Stock air box/your filter set up
Splash guard/belly pan
Maybe air pump (mine is long gone, so ?)
2 vac lines of primary turbo intake adapter
Primary turbo intake adapter on cold side
Lower 1" hose off WP (heater hose)
Vac and Press. line off of TCA (engine side)

3) With all this out of the way, find your MOP/OMP down under the WP and to the left of the main crank. You will notice two seperate bundles of wires going into it and 2 seperate oil lines bolted in from pass. to drivers side. Remember when looking, the OMP is bolted directly to the block and sticks out towards the pass. wheel...you can't miss it cause it's an ugly, dirty bastard.

4) Track the 2 bundles of wires up, behind the main pulley, under the alt. and behind the seq. pressure box into a harness. Look between the elbow and the alt. to find this harness. Before proceding, make sure that all the wires and harness' are in tact. Many, many people have had just a clipped wire somewhere in the track. To check your main harness, refer to this site for proper ohm resistance per pin. Remember, check the Main Harness and not the unplugged OMP.
http://www.cerebralmedia.com/rx7/omp_removal

5) If you are satisfied that it is your OMP, remove the alt.
Unroute the wire bundle from under tha alt. and behind the main crank pulley.

6) Now you can feel three 10mm bolts around the OMP. 2 on top and one at the bottom and back. The top back one you can easily see, the top front one is just out of sight and the bottom one is close enough to impossible to ever see. Remove the top back one with a wrench. Remove the top front one with a small ratchet and a long socket. Fairly easy and straight forward. Leave them some what screwed in order to take some pressure off the lone bottom screw.

*pay attention here*

7) Get the a 6"-9" extension. Use a thin/small socket on the end (hardly any room). Use the extension to go up through the gap between the lower control arm of the pass. wheel and the sub frame. The extension and socket will travel on top of the heat sheild around the TCA and back at an angle onto the bolt. Stick your other hand (my right hand) up throught the gap between the steering rack and the radiator and back to the OMP. If you cram your head against the radiator, and **** it you will catch a glimpse of the lower bolt. Use this hand to help guide the socket onto the bolt, but not flush. The socket will only fit onto the bolt at an angle with 1/2-1/8 of the front bumper side of the bolt not contacting the socket. This is enough leverage to remove the bolt.

8) I mangled my heat sheilds so much out of frustration, I had to loosen the bolts of the TCA to let my extension easily get by its top heat shield. If your patience have more stamina..skip this step.

9) Now, with all bolts out and the heater hose and turbo intake out...there is enough room to get the OMP out from the top while nudging wastegate lines and the air conditioning pipe. Keep the eliptical gasket and inspect it to replace or reuse.

10) Havn't gotten to install the new one yet, but shouldn't be as hard if you unbolt the heat shield that is connected to the OMP (or bend it out of the way of the last lower bolt).

11) A 1/4 cup of oil will spill out, and about 1.25 liters of coolant...so be prepared.



Good Luck


Raj

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

I will be interested in knowing if this solved the problems?

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

I installed my new pump today, and it is running back at full capacity.

My new pump came off of a newer COSMO and was slightly different. There is a breather tube at the bottom of the pump, and the wires are sperated into two new harnesses. Also, there is a slight gap at one of the holes that sits beside the pump hole, but no oil circulates here so it does not leak (just a large rectangle dent into the engine block that isn't fully covered by the new pump). Other then that, the new pump works just like it was built for the FD.

I reset my ecu, and took drove it to normal operating temp and no code = great!

Upon re-install, I cut a large chunk out of the heat shield that sits directly in front of the one lower bolt, and the result was it going in like butter. Also, remember to tighten all three screws in a pattern and to equal torque because the small gasket can easily be squished out of its pocket causing an oil leak.


Good Luck,



Raj