Hello!

I have a 1999 FD Single turbo conversion with 35k original miles. It has been tastefully modified.
Main upgrades:

PFC Master B using FC Tweak as well
Sandwich inter-cooler
HKS GTIII 8574 Single Turbo
Suspension and frame have been heavily modified as well


Xavier has been wonderful getting me started with the PFC Master B and FC Tweak. I am looking to figure out my next steps for adding a bit of horsepower. The car was Dyno'd in Japan at 334 (they sent a metal plate with the car). The Turbo is rated up to 700HP and it has a good exhaust.

Would my first step be larger injectors and an aftermarket fuel pump? According to Xavier's calculations, my injectors are at full duty too much, causing possible lean conditions with stock injectors.

 

in practice, to increase the power level of any rotary car you need only add more air and more fuel. the actual limitation becomes the build of the engine itself and at some point the driveline as well. before pursuing more power, you need to set yourself up for success or you will destroy everything. COOLING is your first and more important mod you can do. sufficient oil coolers, radiator and intercooler. that intercooler will not be sufficient and that radiator configuration will not be sufficient as well. uncontrollable air temps will ruin everything no matter how good the tune.

fueling has to be done with good quality and reliable parts. ID is the only injector brand that should be considered. for the regulator, lines and pump, peoples opinions vary wildly but it all has to make sense for your target. your stock injectors keeping up at 334 on THAT turbo i feel is unlikely. the difference in VOLUME of air over the stock twins is tremendous. actual psi doesn't matter. it would be advised to dyno it yourself to see what's happening. a proper log would be beneficial although we already know its in no way optimal.

you will also need to address your ignition situation. NEW stock coils have shown to be phenomenal but for what you would spend, going with the ign1a would be be better overall.

the list goes on for supporting mods that need to be addressed before even considering raising the power with the build of the motor itself being on that list. it would be advised to prep your car for the IDEA of increased power before actually pursuing it. if you choose to ignore this then you're just going to break things

 

Hi FD Auto, Thank you for your insight! I was also thinking before that I will need a better inter-cooler. I am sure there are articles comparing V-Mount with front mount that I need to check out. My first worry was with the cooling so I will address that first. I think an oil cooler might be my first step as I do know it could only help. Let me also find a dyno near me to see for myself the numbers.

 

oil coolerS... with an S. 2.... twin 19 row will be fine.

v mount or front mount wont net a significant difference on a street car. one is more expensive than the other. choose the one that you think looks cooler and you'll be fine. "better" is relative. technically v mount is "better" but on the street, you will net 0 benefit one over the other. it simply doesn't matter although others will contests this.

 

“The Turbo is rated up to 700HP and it has a good exhaust.”


That turbo is rated for 700ps piston or 690 hp piston. The general rule of thumb for a turbo used on a rotary is to multiply by .75. 690 x .75 would give you 517 rotary HP.

My suggestion would be to search and do your research. Spend time in the “single turbo section” so you can gain the knowledge needed to proceed. This forum is a wealth of information. You will need to know all of the details about your set up currently, then take the knowledge you learn and make a plan. If that turbo is the one you are planning on staying with, you then need to see what pounds it can pump at your target boost level, which will give you an idea of what injector requirements ( fuel needed ) are. It will start to become a domino effect as the horsepower goes up. Things like the ignition, drivetrain will have to be addressed. The rabbit hole runs deep.


~ GW



P.S. - If you plan to stay with the power Fc / master , I would not suggest going with the mercury marine coils with its waste spark configuration. There are better options for a waste spark configuration that are still available.

 

Thank you gddub! Yes I can only imagine the depths of the rabbit hole! I do look forward to the journey, and will take your suggestion to heart being a student of the single turbo section!

 

Better options for coil like what? Even waste spark, the ign is better than an aged coil with or without a twin power or any other booster. As far as I'm aware it's the only coil in the fd market that's essentially plug and play. What other coil option competes with the ease of install, cost and performance?

 

Kuboka ~ You’re welcome. I see you’ve also posted in the tuning group. There’s a lot of great info / knowledgeable people in there as well.




FDAuto ~

“Even waste spark, the ign is better than an aged coil with or without a twin power or any other booster.”


That’s a very interesting claim. I would not call a 35k mile coil aged. The mercury coil’s downfalls in a wasted spark application are well documented around this particular forum. I would suggest you do some research as well. I will provide you will two options that are bolt on plug and play to get you started.


https://www.rmagic.jp/detail/?product_id=965

https://www.rmagic.jp/detail/?product_id=1041


Here is a quote from another highly respected individual around this forum “ Xavier
Borg” about the second option.

“
R-Magic ignitors are the ONLY available aftermarket ignitions designed and fully optimized for waste spark operation, which is the system used by both the factory ECU and the PFC.
Model type AV has got 10 Amp peak current drivers, and an extra independent coil driver for a second leading coil. This results in over 300% the spark energy as compared to the stock system, enough for any rotary setup.
The engineering work behind it's design immediately shows that they've done their homework, something I cannot say to whoever got the idea of fitting IGN-1A's on PFC driven RX7s.
It retains the factory ignitor connection + an extra cable for the extra leading coil. Pretty much plug & play.”.



~ GW

 

I see... so the first option is an 800$ ignitor and the second option is a 2000$ coil set with that ignitor included. Maybe safe to assume that the coils in that kit are somewhat useless without the associated ignitor..... or at least not optimal?

As we are all aware I would hope, mileage is not the only factor when it comes to wear and tear. Even with only 35k, its got 26 years of "experience" lol although collectively much of those years are standby.

The question i was asking, is what other option competes with the ign in cost, ease of install and operation. Obviously there are plenty of FD owners using the ign kit with a power fc including myself who saw and are seeing tremendous performance improvements over the stock coil. As has been the case for many years. If it was so bad then the r magic parts would be a lot more popular than they are I would imagine.

I get there are things that are not always optimal but that doesn't mean it doest work or isn't a good option to an extent. Its not damaging anything and there only positives from using them. It's not like the AST that some are so adamant about keeping but yet no one has been able to prove it actually does anything beneficial. Or the people using the CNG injectors for their secondaries. No its not optimal but they work.

Considering the large amount of use cases without any prevailing or widespread report of some sort of failure or malfunction, I would call an ign kit good. i will maintain that there is no other option on the market that competes with the COST, ease of install and performance gain of an ign1a set up.

I would say a disadvantage with the r magic kit is you don't have the option for direct fire if you ever upgrade your ecu which seems to be inevitable for many. This limitation is not applicable to any ign kit. So for double the price, you lock yourself into a waste spark configuration. The overarching theme here I think is a debate on what's optimal but it's based around a power fc lol so what's the real argument 😆

In reality, if cost is not a concern then it's not a considerable factor. There are some of us here who do not need to weigh costs when decision making and I am not one of them lol. I also don't like to assume that's the case for anyone either. If you got it like that though, then buy the r magic kit for the sake of doing it because what does it matter lol

Xavier also offers his own ignitor now right? Does that quote still maintain its relevance?

My goal is to see that people make the best decision based on evidence and facts. The evidence the ign kit is a suitable solution is widespread vs the contrary being an opinion. No one can prove they don't work, because they do. On paper, a lot of things, what's reality say?

 

How you get $800 from ¥71500 is beyond me

I've known about the R-Magic ignitor for a long time, and know a lot of people that runs it... maybe not in the States, but let's not limit ourselves eh? Ease of installation? It's like 2 bolts and plug right in lol. Brand new coils plus the Type A ignitor is just a little over $1k, and you can run it with stock ECU. It's a little more than the IGN-A1 setup, but after you melt a couple A1 coil it'll be about the same

 

FDAuto -

Rather than clog up this guy thread, it’s pretty clear you’re set on your opinion without any creditable information to provide otherwise. You’re welcome to start another thread doing comparative testing on all of the available options and provide your results of real world testing. I look forward to reading that. The options I listed are $465 for the igniter and $1,395 for the complete setup. Had you done your research like I had suggested in my last post, you would know that you’re mistaken on comparative pricing and justifications for your particular opinion of what the correct route is. I didn’t bother to read the wall of text remaining because it’s pretty clean you’re only interested in your perspective and if you can’t be bothered to invest the smallest amount of energy to research the options I was nice enough to give you, then I won’t bother investing any energy spoon feeding you. I stopped reading your forum posts after the non sequential testing debacle you started awhile back. I don’t know what’s more frightening considering the years you’ve been around here, your justifications of your choices or that you, “ an established shop” don’t know of the other available options that for this particular scenario of the OP current setup, are better choices. If you’re happy with your choices, great! On a wasted spark application such as the power fc, there are better options competitively priced.



~ GW

 

Yep! It’s two bolts on the igniter and plug and play. Which can be increased with dwell optimization settings. The kit offers all new coils and a matching igniter with 300% output over stock. Bolt on plug and play which would be great for someone who wanted new coils to replace their aged ones. It’s pretty much a no brainer.



~ GW

 

Understood... I wouldn't say we're established, still very much new. The quotes make it seem like I've said that. You're the first to extend that title our way or refer to us as such, so thank you for that. Also thanks for the clarification, I'll pay more attention to the exchange rate and maybe buy the set to compare side by side. We have a customer needing an ignition upgrade anyway 🤔. I think it would be good content

 

I wish you and your customers the best of luck.



~ GW