Ok frist bear with me on this,


Ok this i best as i can think will work on any rotary enigne that is Fuel injected.


Ok on the normal CAS system on the 2nd gens you can just pull the fuel injector plugs on eather the front or rear rotor, Yes it will be hard to start but it will start, just set the ideal up higher to keep it running, The inspection place cant fail you just beacuse you engine is running rought. The one rotor will be moving alot of air to delute the exhuast gas of the other rotor.

Ok enuff of 2nd gens in a 3rd gen forum.


On are motors there is a round CAS trigger plate in the front, I didnt go look how many trigger points there are in one full rotation, but why not get one made with a few of the points removed to trick the computer into thinking that the motor is turing slower than it reall is thus, it would be skipping one face on each rotor.

EX.
Face 1 2 3

Rotor 1 Fuel/Fire No Fuel/Fire Fuel/Fire
Rotor 2 No Fuel/Fire Fuel/Fire No Fuel/Fire

This would help out in the rought running of half a engine by just letting the rotor fire on 2 of it faces, but alternat them.

*** I no this would cause a Check Engine Light, But are system is not a OBD II system so a check engine light would not fail you.

I would like to learn what each of the triggers on the wheel does, I no that the one on the far outside of it is the (Home) trigger, telling the computer where the starting point of the counting process, Like Injector firing and then ingingtion firering.


This is just a idea that i have been pondering. I have done this on my FC and it passed the sniffer test with flying colors.

What do you guys think.

 

No offense, but I think it's pretty damn silly. Even a modified car should pass emissions easily (I passed with the mods in my sig, with only 200 miles on the new motor, and Cali has the strictest tests). There are only so many failure points for not passing smog. Any properly running FD should have no problem.

FYI, in California, a check engine light WILL fail you. Other states may be the same. The idle must be within a certain RPM range and not have a huge lope either.

 

Yea passing emissions is easy if you have a car in good running condition. All you need is an air pump and a cat, even with the stock computer on a street ported engine you should be able to pass no problem. The air pump and a good cat are what really will lock in your passing numbers.

 

On third gens with PFC just retard the timming ,both about 30 degrees , and pull out gas at idle and if you have 850 cc pri injectors , open the secondary throttle plates a small amount with the throttle stop screw .I do this plus I put the stock main cat back in .

 

Why? You do not have to do any of this to pass, even in California.

 

Uhh i think putting a cat on is one of the only reasons why our cars pass.

 

Of course you need a cat on the car to pass. So does every other car. WTF is your point?

 

Yah, heres my idea. Move to Florida. Done.

 

I failed four times with a stock cat and properly running engine in Colorado? I have the air pump and I even installed a brand new HF cat and still failed. HC in the 1400's and CO in the 7's as high as 8 something. With stock ecu and pfc, I tried a bunch of stuff to no avail. I decided not to try the denatured alcohol, because I could not see it making that much difference and I already spent enough to get it to pass. Every case is different and I think a lot more goes into passing. Maybe I just got bad luck, but I know at least 4 guys that could not pass. I think fully stock is the key to passing, but some say otherwise. Who knows?

 

First you need to log the PFC with a datalogit to see in which areas of the map the tests are run in. Then adjust timing and fuel for those areas.

I load a special map that I run with my cat just to pass the tests. Then I put back in my normal map and MP after passing.

 

Where you at the HOUSTON club meeting Tuesday night? If so ,which car

 

Seriously, just move to Florida. We don't have all that smog nonsense! POLLUTION FTW!

 

Guess what? Something on your car is NOT properly running. You do NOT have to be stock, or even close. Period.

I easily passed the strictest emissions laws in the country (dyno testing in Cali) with the following mods:

*streetported motor with 200 miles on it
*downpipe
*RP hi-flow cat
*RX7 Fashion intake
*PFS SMIC
*550/1300cc injectors
*BNR Stage 3 turbos
*Power FC with conservative map for a T-78, used for break-in purposes

I passed near the measurable minimums when my car had the stock ecu and stock main cat.

Bottom line is there is something wrong with your car, if you can't pass smog. PERIOD.

 

He probably had an air pump that wasn't working.... 9 out of the last 10 FDs I've seen have the air pump still but it doesn't engage the clutch. So for my own car and the last person I helped pass smog out here in Vegas, we wired the air pump directly to the battery.

The next thing is the ACV probably isn't working, which means none of the air is getting to the cat / exhaust stream. Makes the air pump worthless.

Las possibility is your stock cat is no good. Like I said, a newer high flow cat with air pump hookup is invaluable to pass smog each year. I just bought one to keep for smog purposes, then swapped in my mid pipe when I got done.

 

Bad cat.

 

you remove teeth, and now the ECU fires ignition and fuel at the wrong times.

Face 1 2

Rotor 1 Fuel/Fire Fuel for Rotor 2 /Fire Rotor 2
Rotor 2 No Fuel/ NoFire No Fuel/ No Fire

no need to go any further, as the car won't run.