BuckyFD3

I have posted a few threads about trying to get my car started after a rebuild as you might have seen.

Since putting it all back together it just doesn't want to fire up.
Checked compression and its 4.5bar on each rotor equal bounces on the tester on each face.
I'm getting spark and fuel in there.

I know the rotor timing cant be out since the E shaft only allows each rotor to be in a certain way, checked that on my scrap engine which is in bits.

I seems that the ignition and injection timing is out, is this possible??? Since the front pulley and plate can only go on one way to the front hub.

NeedFD

i don't think that's possible, but what have you checked so far?

what is it not doing when you try to fire it up? what have you checked so far?
you checked:
-ignition coils
-spark plugs
-spark plug wires
-ignitor
-grounding wires (quite a few of them)
- starter AND the grounding wire attached to it.
- (might be stupid but ..got fuel? fuel pump working?)

BuckyFD3

This is well weird.

I am getting spark and fuel in there as the plugs are soaking. So I took the plugs out and heated them up to get rid of the excess ****, I am also getting a spark on the 4 plugs.

It coughs as soon as I start to turn it over, but nothing like it is going to start and I get a load of white fuel vapour out of the exhaust as I am cranking it.

Now if I take the leading plugs out and crank it I get flames comming out of the leading plug holes, so the trailing plugs are firing.

I have taken all of the emmisions stuff off the engine and blocked up the holes with plates.
Left the idle solenoid there for the time being.

Map sensor is connected and so is the TPS, I havn't checked the values on the PFC yet though.

I have tried taking the plugs off the injectors and tried to get it firing on easy start to try and get it to cough, but nothing.

I seems like a piston engine when the cam timing or injection/ignition timing is out. But this isn't possible I dont think. Also i am getting flames when cranking without the leading plugs in.

I have removed the rats nest so i do have a load of connectors spare.
What sensors are needed to get the car started??? I mean just running then i can go from there, dont give a **** if its lumpy just wana get it started and its a start.
I am running a PFC on a standard map.
Half bridge port with standard injectors (just to run it in)
Even tried ATF and it didn't make any difference.

BuckyFD3

Just tried some more ATF and I'm getting somewhere now. started to fire up.

Rocking Rotary

iTrader: (14)

Man you are over thinking your problems. Its some thing simple. Its like any other engine need air fuel mixture and spark. If theres to much fuel its a fuel problem if it has no spark spark problem easy as that.

BuckyFD3

Yea thats what I am thinking. Going to check everything over again, must be summit I have missed.

CantGoStraight

In some cases when you completely foul the plugs with fuel the only thing that will fix the plugs is new plugs.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Or a Spark Plug cleaner.

BuckyFD3

The plugs were covered in petroleum jelly off the re-build and when I heated them up alsorts of **** came out of them. but they still spark ok when connected to the wires and grounded on the inlet manifold.

I had it started on ATF yesterday but it only ran for 5secs and then died again and wouldn't start.

BuckyFD3

Just had a thought:

When cranking, if I put the throttle half down the injector duty doesn't change, stays at 3.1% even if the pedal is to the floor it stays at 3%.
This is on the commander.

Is this right?

BuckyFD3

Anyone??