jramosrx7

Still having extreme difficulties getting the M2/ASP medium ic to fit in my '94 FD. The hose from the air box (RE cold air intake) to the air pump still blocks access to the turbo-side of the ic.

I have rotated the air pump to the maximum amount, and taken up the belt's slack at the alternator. I pivoted the air pump down from its previous location, that is, the slider at the bottom moved to the left. Should I have gone in the opposite direction? Jeff Hoskinson was kind enough to lend me the pipe that accommodates retaining the air pump, and it clears all hard points, but that hose gets in the way of hooking up the ic hose.

In addition, I cannot close the hood with the hood rod in place. If I remove it, the hood closes fine as far as I can tell.

If anyone has close-up pics of the installation of an ASP medium with air pump, I'd certainly appreciate some views. I'd like to see the location where the pipe from the turbo crosses by the air pump, and a pic of the seam between the top front of the air duct where it meets the top cross member. I doubt if it would effect my hose problem, but I want to see how far down in the opening the air duct fits. Mine may not be all the way in due to a fit problem impacting closing the hood with the rod in place.

BTW, I want to retain the air pump, so please, no "get rid of the air pump" replies.

Thanks

jpandes

Joe, Here's a pic of my M2/ASP Large. I don't remember having to lower the air pump. It's been a few years. Also, the duct block the hood rod. You can just lay it further toward the front of the car.

I'm not sure. You may be able to unscrew the air pump hose inlet and have it face another direction. Did you even get your bushings installed?

jramosrx7

From the looks of the pic, either the route taken for the large ic is different from the medium, or the air box I have doesn't let the pipe move over far enough.

Haven't done that job yet. Finished putting in new shocks and springs, and the Widefoot swaybar mounts. Got the driver's seat recovered (got the piece from Mazda). Once/if I get this ic in, I'm going to spend some time on the road before I do the pillow *****.

jpandes

You may need a special pipe for your IC to work with the Air pump. I know that they are different if you eliminated the air pump vs w/ it. PM Kevin T. Wyum he may be able to sell you one.

Kevin T. Wyum

The duct should push all the way against the front frame bar. I'm trying to think of a better way to describe that. I assume you moved the rubber rings from the hood prop rod? It should fit fine but it is a tight fit, like everything on the kit. I'm not familiar with an RE intake kit but you'll have to rotate the air intake hardpipe on the air pump and use a longer rubber hose to route it to the airbox. If you have pictures of how things are sitting right now it would be easy to tell you what needs to be done.

Kevin

jramosrx7

I have the "special pipe." That's the one Jeff Hoskinson lent me. That's one of the reasons I am mystified.

You may recall I had an FD for some 12 years. I had the PFS ic, and this same M2/ASP ic (with the M2 cold air box). Never had a problem like this.

rotoober

iTrader: (3)

I'm at work, so I don't have any photos with me, maybe this will help:

I have the m2 intake, and had to get a different hose to fit the airpump intake. I am assuming Jeff let you use the Kevin Wynn? "airpump friendly" pipe? I have the same setup with the M2 (ASP) large intercooler. I had to remove the intake pipe from the airpump (2 bolts) turn it 45 degrees(trying to remember) and re-drill the holes in it's flange to get it re-connected to the airpump. I then went to my local autoparts store and got a longer hose to hook it up to the intake. I got the original y-pipe to intercooler to fit initally, but had to bag the bejesus out of it where it went over the airpump.
I also think you could rotate the intake pipe from the airpump 180 degrees and run a longer hose to the intake. If this doesn't help, I can take some photos when I get home. I also had a similar problem with the hood prop, but once I got the duct pushed all the way down (ac thingy needed to be moved over to allow the duct to sit correctly - don't cut the duct!)

Matt

Kevin T. Wyum

I just assumed he had the air pump pipe version, if not it won't likely fit at all. Silly me making assumptions.

rotoober

iTrader: (3)

You may recall I had an FD for some 12 years. I had the PFS ic, and this same M2/ASP ic (with the M2 cold air box). Never had a problem like this.[/QUOTE]

Maybe you are getting old like me and forget! I also was suprised at the amount of "grinding and fiddeling around with" I had to do to get it to fit in a way I would call correct.

jramosrx7

I do have the air pump pipe version.

In putting things together for the below pics, I think I may have found part (if not all) of the problem. As I said above, when I rotated the air pump, I moved it down from its previous location. This appears to actually move it to interfere. If I lift it, that should move the connection out of the way.

I'll do that after lunch. Us old guys have to eat or we get cranky.

jramosrx7

Didn't do that. Will do. I remember from years past that was one of the things needed. Thanks

Trevor

I have the same airbox, IC, and cast IC pipe. My airpump is only when I'm going thru emissions every year so its not too critical for me.

I removed that elbow from the airpump and epoxied some filtering gauze over the now open inlet. After that I capped the open fitting on the air box. Fits like a glove now.

rotoober

iTrader: (3)

Looks like you haven't repositioned the air conditioning thingy yet. I moved mine over to the drivers side and connected it with only one of the bolts, it is held in place with two from the factory. My duct then slipped right in and the hood prop was low enough to close the hood with no interference.

jramosrx7

The a/c "thingy" doesn't get in the way at all. I'm restricted as the duct widens. It hits in the channel. I think the Koyo radiator I have restricts the opening more than others. If I can get the hoses connected, this may be a non-issue.

Thanks

2-Rotor

I had the same problems that you are having. Its seems that the radiator is sitting too high for the duct to fully bottom out. My advice is to read this link of the situation i had and ask any question that you may have after that.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=radiator

I hope this helps you out.

jpandes

Joe, (This is off topic)

Did you ever get the AST eliminator (86 cap assembly)? How's that working out?
I'm in the process of ordering one myself.

jramosrx7

Thanks. I'll go check out the link.

As of now, everything is together, more than a little snug. Once I moved the air pump in the opposite direction, that is, raised it, I had barely enough room to fit the pipe. In fact, the pipe is squishing the air box-air pump hose a bit.

However, something is too high as I cannot now close the hood, with or without the rod. It appears that the air duct is too high. Perhaps the link will help. I hope so.

jramosrx7

Yes, I did. It's the same set-up I had on my old FD. Not a problem at all, but the car hasn't been running with it yet.

Kevin T. Wyum

Joe, from looking at the picture your duct isn't all the way in. It needs to rest against the upper frame part. Right now it appears to be sitting at least an inch or two out. Although it could be the Koyo it could very well just be snagging on some plastic edges towards the bottom where the snout of the duct comes out. What's all the discoloration on the duct btw?

Kevin

jramosrx7

The discoloration (light color) is where I've sanded it down some. It's hitting only on that side. I'm almost certain it's the Koyo that's preventing from it going all the way in.

rotoober

iTrader: (3)

I hear of people putting some washers or round spacers to drop the radiator just enough to get the duct in. I had to pull my duct from the front to get it to seat correctly.
Not to overrun your thread, but I put the AST elimination kit on my car and had some problems with the o-ring seating correctly on its pedistal. I had to put a little thicker o-ring on then it quit leaking. Also, the plugs I got to replace the removed hoses from my radiator softened up and started leaking after two months and I had to replace them. I haven't had any problems with overheating (even last summer when it was 110 up here in Corning) and during the last two track days at Thunderhill (notorious for high temps).

danny hahn

Your Koyo core is thicker than most. From your pics I see a banged up duct from what you describe, problems closing the hood. Spent many hours getting this to fit, I have a PWR radiator and a stock battery which caused me to do the most rearranging. I'll add:

If your fans aren't there already, consider positioning the fan & motors under the fan shroud instead of on top. The fan motors will sit lower allowing the duct to go lower. (situate the wires to avoid rubbing, put something on the fan bolts so they dont come undone.)

I chose to lightly hammer on the top of the A/C condensor to allow the duct entrance to clear the condenser.

In anticipation of using the niche for the air friendly pipe and the positioning of the air pump intake, I filed the screw holes to rotate air pump intake towards the filler neck. But this was unnecessary.

Polyurethane a strip of rubber to the underside of the intercooler to protect it against the steel cross member.

One of the benefits of this intercooler is how easy it is to remove and reinstall, you'll save hours. Does drop temps considerably.

I'll add my critique to the airpipe here, the I/C core is 12'' wide (10.5"-11" would be a better fit), and ive ground, modified, shimmed and moved the battery tray as far over as the sheet metal. The air friendly pipe is still an inch away from the airpump, the little niche in the pipe is doing me nothing. As far as the pipe planning I would of hoped that there would of been enough clamp area on the pipe ends to put the clamps on better. Why the funky shape where it meets the intercooler? Maybe the pipe ends in the molds can be modified for future castings.

The duct is wonderful, the little niche for the a/c receiver/dryer bracket was a non factor.