Ok, so I'd planned on going to the track this Sunday, as the first time this season. However, I figured that it might be a good idea to go out and practice some launches before I take the car 1.5 hrs from home. On the first burnout I EVER attempted with the car, one of the pucks broke on my clutch...Yep, dead serious...

I went to do a burnout, came to a stop, and pushed in the clutch...however, the car kept rolling. I limped it home, as I was about 5 miles from my house....Rev matching shifts and whatnot...I got it there, put it up on stands, and pulled the inspection plate from the tranny. The clutch fork/wedge collar were engaging/disengaging fine...Then I saw it. One of the pucks is physically broken. Part is stuck to the clutch while part is stuck to the flywheel, and there is a fracture running in between. This clutch is literally 1 year old with about 5k miles on it. I'm running the ACT 6 puck ZX3-HDR6. WTF do I do now? Obviously I'll need a new clutch...What should I get for the power I'm putting down? I was considering this. => http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/zx3-xtr6.htm.

I bought the clutch from A-spec tuning, and doubt I have any recourse. I took the time and effort to break the clutch in properly, but obviously something went wrong...The car is done for the season, and I REALLY hoped to get it up to the track before it closed down.

Suggestions? Thanks guys...

 

That sucks, but heres the good news. You will be a pro at dropping the trans pretty soon with all the things you brake down there.

 

For the power that you are making you really need to consider an Exedy multiplate clutch. I run the ZM022SD twin disc on my 20B, it handles everything I have thrown at it so far. We have these in stock.

http://banzai-racing.com/store/93+_r...lutch_kit.html

 

Banzai is right, you're probably just gonna be wasting money on anything other than a multi disk clutch. Going to an unsprung 6 puck isn't going to increase the ability for it to handle your power but just put more stress the rest of your drivetrain. ACT has inflated ratings as well as them being engine not wheel torque ratings.

 

Thanks guys. That's a very good point touring...I never even thought about the fact that the HP/TQ ratings are the ratings at the FW, as that would make sense since it's a clutch. And I'm sure my motor's pumping out pretty close to 600HP at the FW.

$1600 is A LOT of money to spend on a clutch, but I suppose I may have to at this point...So it looks like those clutches come with a FW (right now I'm running the ACT streetlite), but no counterweight? Is the one at the bottom of the page that costs 155 dollars the one I'm going to need? Being that I had Dave @ KDR install my streetlite FW I have no idea what counterweight he used...Also, does it come with a new pilot bearing and throwout bearing?

And yes turk, I'm definitely going to be a pro if I have to keep pulling this damn tranny...

Ok, I'm thinking I'm going to go with the Exedy Hyper Twin Plate from rx7.com. The reason being, it's $1550 dollars, comes with a flywheel, counterweight, and all the appropriate hardware. It's also rated to hold 700HP and 500+lb ft of torque at the crank.

 

damn dude that sucks. Good thing it didnt do anymore damage like go through your bell housing or anything. I was looking into getting that exact same clutch that you had, but from the looks of it not anymore lol. The twin disk are real good clutches but i hate how they cost so much and for that price it better come with the bearings. Was looking into a OS GIKEN, anyone have any experience with this clutch?

 

Look in the single turbo section I think there is a thread on the OS GIKEN clutch.

Once you start making big power, yes your car falls into this category lol, it's extremely important to get quality products that can stand the abuse they will inevitably see. I'm sticking around 400whp for now so I can continue to enjoy my car until I have the money to upgrade items like ignition and clutch further. If you slack in just one area while modifying a car, that can continue to bite you in the *** which ultimately leads to unnecessary down time.

I thought all the counterweights for lightweight flywheels were the same? I'm not all that sure

 

That's a good question, and ultimately something I'm going to have to figure out as well. Maybe they are?

Btw Sleepy, from what I've heard/read the OS GIKEN is a very good clutch.

 

I don't have any experience with the Exedy in an FD, but we have it in our shop Evo X, and man that is one hell of a clutch...its awesome, the feel, the engagement is nice and direct, and it handle everything we throw at it, 4WD drifting, donuts, its been through 12,000 miles of what no clutch should see lol

 

LOL...Good to know man!

 

zonblitz is selling an Exedy Twinplate for something around $900. PM him and grab it NOW.

Link for you:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-parts-99/exedy-twin-disc-clutch-low-miles-921319/

 

I plan on getting an Exedy twin disk after I finish nursing school in May. It's hard building one of these cars as a full time student with no job, lol! I'll be keeping my eye out for what you decide to do and how you like it. I don't care if I have to drive down there next spring I'm definitely going to check your car out. I really want to see what a beast like your car is like.

He's a good guy too, I've got some stuff off him before.

 

Thanks Matt, I appreciate it! I just looked at the thread and it says it's sold, pending payment. Too little too late...Looks like I'll have to buy new...

 

Here's a pic of the carnage...Notice how the puck in the upper left is fine? Clutch is disengaged in this picture...Then look at the puck to the right...

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...1/IMG_0970.jpg

 

Come on down any time man... Except now....cuz my car's broken....

 

yea i saw that like 2 seconds later lol. Seems like the exedy is everyones favorite clutch. Might just have to go with it because its been proven in many set ups

 

What were you expecting? 5k-10k is NORMAL FOR A PUCK CLUTCH!!! Take it from someone who has had three different puck clutches, and knows a bunch of people who run them. I remember calling up ACT tech support to discuss what clutch I was going to get and they specifically warned me that their puck clutches don't last. But then again, neither do Spec puck clutches or any other brand. If you had less power (or never tried to launch) it would have lasted longer, but still only a fraction of the life of a full-faced disc.

That's why they're "not for street use."

 

Thanks argh...I honestly had no idea puck clutches were so disposable. It was, without question, the launch that finished it off. I'm just glad I didn't take it up to the track and have it happen there!

So that Exedy from rx7.com...What's the consensus? Good? Bad? Will it get the job done? :P

Third one down - $1550 - http://rx7.com/store/rx7/fddrivetrain_clutch.html

 

^ Add it to the cart, it does NOT come with counterweight like it states in the description. It states that in the shopping cart.

If you have the ACT FW then you have the appropriate CW already. There is only one for the FD, it is the stock auto CW.

$1600 is not that bad considering you are getting 2 balanced clutches and a chromoly FW assembly. You already spent $800-$900 on a clutch & flywheel setup that could not handle the power. Here is what it looks like installed on my engine:

 

Thanks man, and yes, I already have the counterweight installed. Got everything apart today....Parts of the friction disk are fused to the pressure plate AND the flywheel! Thankfully I'll be getting all new parts! I'll install a new pilot bearing and throwout bearing as well, since I'll be right there. :P

 

Considering you can't just replace the disk you're almost forced to step it up to a twin disk, lol. Sucks you gotta spend all that money but at least it will be money well spent. I'll be getting mine from Banzai and hopefully that exhaust on their 20B.

 

I have 2 low mile used Exedy twin disc assemblies. Will post them in the F.S. section this week. Price should be between $650.00 and 950.00 once I inspect the condition and measure the clutch pad thickness..

 

Yep, it def does suck that I have to spend all this money, but to be honest I'm actually looking forward to having a smooth clutch engagement once again! That damn 6 puck was a PITA, and don't even get me started on reverse... Stupid question...The twin disk kit comes with a new wedge collar pressed in, correct? It looks like it does in the picture.

Oh yeah, and FWIW I would have NEVER spent that kind of money on this clutch if I had any idea it would fail this quickly. I'm kind of disappointed that Dave @ KDR didn't steer me in a different direction, to be honest...because he knows that I always try to do things the right way, even if that means spending a few more dollars...

 

yes..

 

I decided to go with the clutch you suggested, as opposed to the one from rx7.com due to the higher torque rating of the ZM022SD twin disc. Not to mention the fact that I don't know how high I'll take power output over the next few years...It'd be much appreciated if you could get this shipped out Monday so I have it by next weekend. I'm on pins and needles to get the car back up and running, and hopefully this clutch will last more than 5 or 6k miles. I still can't believe that anyone would knowingly install one of those puck clutches, accepting the fact that they'd be replacing it in less than 10k miles.

In any case, I'm still hoping to make it to the track at least once this year, although time is running short. One last thing...I've heard/read that there is no break in for these twin disc clutches. You just install and go racing (hypothetically). Is this true?