I saw your order come in. It will ship Monday, you should have it by Wed-Thurs at the latest.

Here are the installation instructions, page 15 says 500Km (300mi) break in

http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/s...rd%20Multi.pdf

 

Great man, thanks a lot...You have no idea how much I appreciate it! I'll more than likely have the break in miles taken care of the day after I install the clutch. ... Hang on, I'll go get some pics of the old clutch/FW...

Pressure plate...
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l..._clutch003.jpg

Flywheel...
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l..._clutch002.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l..._clutch001.jpg

At least my clutch fork and throwout bearing are ok.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l..._clutch005.jpg

 

waiting patiently, lol!

 

Thanks man. :P So, those of you running the twin disc clutches...Any special words of wisdom for the install? I glanced through the pdf that banzai had posted, and will read it in more depth, but what about those who have done it? How hard are they to install? What do I need to watch out for, and are there any secrets I should know? Thanks in advance.

 

Install is very straight forward, just align the disks properly and torque everything to spec. You can expect a slight rattling noise when you have the clutch pedal depressed. This is normal as there is a floating center plate between the two clutch disks, nothing to be alarmed about.

Everything about this clutch far exceeds the quality of the ACT, wait until you open the box it is almost a work of art.

Re-reading the "launch thread" it sounds like you damaged the clutch disk a month ago, when you developed the vibration that mysteriously vanished. I would have to say that a chunck worked itself loose then.

 

You're on my wavelength my friend! I was just thinking about this the other day, not long after this whole ordeal happened.

 

*sigh* Ok, so I received and installed my new Exedy twin disc clutch today. Everything seemed to go fine...I torqued the FW bolts down to the suggested 50 lb ft in a star fashion, and torqued the clutch PP bolts down to the rated 23 lb ft, as recommended by the spreadsheet. I just got everything all buttoned up, and got the gear oil in the tranny...The car is still up on jackstands and I was about to finish up for the night, but I thought to myself "why not start the car just to make sure the clutch works?"

It seemed logical, so I gave it a shot...Car started right up, clutch engages and disengages perfectly. The pedal feels good, etc...However, whenever I let out the clutch and start giving it gas the rear wheels start spinning slowly, but then they stop. If I stay on the gas the revs will continue to go up but the tires go nowhere (as if I'm revving the car in neutral, but it's in gear). I even got underneath the car to watch while my gf pressed in the clutch, and it appears to be engaging/disengaging perfectly through the inspection plate.

So what did I do wrong?

 

Was the driveshaft spinning?

When you disassembled the clutch stack you put everything back in the same order that you took it out, with the correct sides facing out?

Only other thing I can think of is that the clutch pedal rod may need adjustment, it could be too far out.

 

I'm going to get underneath the car tonight while someone else drives it on the stands...I know what you're thinking about the driveshaft, and I wanted to check the very same thing. Obviously if the driveshaft is turning and the wheels aren't then I have a diff problem on my hands (though it worked fine before so I don't think that's it).

As far as clutch disassembly, I was critically meticulous here, especially since I've never done a twin disc before. I disassembled the stack, placed it on a clean bench (in the same order) with the alignment tool through it, installed and torqued the FW, grabbed the stack from the bench (still with the alignment tool through it), mated it all to the FW with the alignment tool going through to the pilot bearing, then placed the pressure plate on and torqued the bolts in a star fashion down to 23 lb ft. I'm really at a loss here for what I did wrong.

Tell me more about this clutch pedal rod adjustment though. Like I said, I'm going to have a friend drive it gently on the stands tonight while I'm underneath the car with the inspection plate off. Any other suggestions? Hopefully I didn't ruin anything! Although I wouldn't think so, since I only drove it for a minute or so at a very low speed/light throttle on the stands...

Ugh, I REALLY don't want to pull this transmission again by myself...I'm getting fairly proficient at it, but it's just not fun anymore...

 

There is a rod at the clutch pedal, that often times gets adjusted out when an ACT flywheel is used. If it is out too far, then it will not allow the PP to fully engage. Meaning it is simulating the clutch pedal being depressed. Look in the FSM, you need a 10mm and a 12mm wrench to adjust.

Also check the slave cylinder, if the push rod is not returning fully it will duplicate the symptoms above. Make sure it is seated properly in the clutch fork.

 

^ Very good information, thanks! I talked to my friend and we are going to investigate tonight. Stay tuned. :P

I talked to Lance (mono4lamar) on the phone, and he seemed to think that my symptoms were not indicative of the slave cylinder not being seated properly. That was one of my first thoughts as well. Anyway, how can I make sure it's seated properly? It's not like you can really see too well in there through the inspection plate....or can you? I've never tried to see the slave cylinder.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for either the slave cylinder or the clutch pedal rod!

 

Ok, really stupid question here...I was sitting there driving the car watching the DRIVER side wheel the whole time. I am basing everything here off of that wheel, keeping in mind that the entire car is off the ground.

Would the LSD work such that it could be stopping that wheel yet allowing the passenger side wheel to turn with the car off the ground? I don't know enough about LSDs...A friend had put this theory into my head...God it'd be nice if that was the case.

 

The LSD is exactly what it was. The driver side wheel slowly stops spinning, I'm guessing because it starts off spinning slightly faster than the passenger side....Then there is no friction to overcome, so it just stops spinning...

The pass side wheel spins right along, and continues spinning while the clutch is engaged. I'm headed out there right now to put the rest of it back together. Turns out I'm not so bad at this after all.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

Awesome! Im paying close attention because Im interested in getting this clutch if its all its cracked up to be.

I do hear that the Exedy Twin is really noisy though.

 

I am LOVING this clutch so far! My only real complaint is that I'm having to totally relearn how to drive my car! It engages so smoothly and so close to factory (even though I've never felt a factory RX-7 clutch, I have an idea what it'd feel like)...The PP feels about like my ACT, but it's not overly heavy. If anything, it may even be slightly lighter.

I do get the patented twin disk rattle any time the clutch is pressed down, but it's no mystery why. :P I mean you have 2 disks and an intermediate plate all sitting on the input shaft of the transmission with nothing pressing them together, so it makes sense that things would rattle with the clutch depressed. I do also feel some very minor vibration in the clutch pedal with the clutch down, and also slightly through the shifter...but again, I attribute these vibrations to things rattling slightly on the input shaft. Once you let the clutch out (in neutral too) the vibrations/rattles all go right away...

25 break in miles so far and counting! I'm going to go driving around after work to get some more on...No doubt I'll easily have the 300 racked up by the end of the weekend.

 

It's worth every penny.

Not at all. Took a buddy for some high speed pulls and around-town driving last night and he had no idea that I had a twin disc on the car.

 

^ Exactly. You're not going to notice it unless you're sitting in your driveway with the radio off and the clutch pressed in. When you're moving, the only time the rattle would occur would be between shifts, and you're not going to hear it over windnoise/your radio/exhaust/etc...

One thing though (Banzai-Racing)...Wasn't this kit supposed to come with the flywheel counterweight? It's not a huge deal seeing as how I already had one, but my kit didn't.

Ahh, scratch that last comment...I see now that there is no mention of a counterweight on your clutch page, so it must have been another kit I was thinking of. Carry on.

 

It clearly states that it does not come with a CW. None of them do, not even the kits that claim they include the CW on other websites. As I said previously in this thread, add it to the cart on the other websites and it retracts the CW statement made in the product detail.

The clutch will take everything your car can put out. I just made 621rwhp/482fttq @17psi yesterday, not even a hint of a clutch issue

However, like I said in your other thread, your diff is not long for this world. Now that you have a clutch that can handle the power, the stock torsen will break. The good news is that once you upgrade it, both your wheels will spin forward at the same time.

 

Sorry, again it was my mistake. I saw that it didn't come with the CW after I read the description again. No worries.

I plan on upgrading to either a T2 diff or a Kaaz (hopefully Kaaz) over the winter.

 

Between the two, go with the TII, the Kaaz is a noise diff. Constantly popping during turning. I hear you can disassemble it and flip some of the clutch plates to reduce the noise, but I have never personally experienced it.

I have the Carbonetics Carbon 1.5 LSD in my car and it is totally silent. We have installed them in multiple customers' cars, it is a fantastic LSD. http://banzai-racing.com/store/93+_r...ferential.html

 

Thanks for the updates. Ill defently be buying this clutch soon.

 

Thanks Banzai, I'll definitely consider that diff. It may not happen until next spring with funding being what it is, but that's totally fine since the car hibernates for winter...

Btw, what is your real name, so I don't have to keep calling you Banzai?

 

Finally got all of my break in miles taken care of last night. I'm over 300 now, so I started getting on it a little bit...I also got on it full throttle a few times, and it held everything with ease. I've gotta say, I'm loving this clutch!! Thanks again!

 

Start rippin' it up on the track and beat that 11.76 time.

 

Hahaha, there is NOTHING I'd like more man. I may not press my luck at the track this year though...with the way my luck has been with this thing this year, I'll more than likely blow my diff out if I track it.