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I made a splice at the white/green wire right before the egi main relay to install a switch, and now my car is not injecting fuel when I crank the engine?
Do I have to reset the ECU to get it to work again?
I cut the wire there because I don’t want to get outside my car to unplug egi main relay to deflood car.
It sounds like there is no EGI Relay when I crank the Motor even when switch is turned on. The Relay is getting Power.
Also a beeping noise can be heard when Ignition is On and Switch is turned Off. Did I trip something when I cut the Wire?
Last edited by RPOdesign; Aug 3, 2020 at 12:28 AM.
Do you happen to have a multi meter to test continuity?
Check that the switch is working by probing each side of the wire and turning the switch on and off.
Also, is the switch you used rated for 30 amp? If not, you may not be providing enough power to the injector relay switch for it to trigger.
That wire is also connected into the diagnostics module, this may be what's caused the beeping.
Its got continuity, and its a 12V 30 amp switch. I also reconnected the wire and fuel injectors still didn’t come on. That’s so strange...
Prior to this, I also had change All the fuses in the relay box. I put in the 32V PAL cartridge fuse with the recommended amp which I found at Autozone. Is it suppose to be 12V Fuses? I wonder if that also has something to do with it?
Why did you wire up a fuel pump switch? Are you having constant flooding problems?
With the stock ECU if you crank with the pedal to the floor it won't inject fuel to de-flood.
That said, I wouldn't put the switch on the input current side of the relay. Seems like it would make more sense to do it on the switch input side - the B/LG wire. With it where it is you have the full amperage going through the switch too, it makes more sense to leave that as-is and switch the low amp input that triggers the relay.
Why did you wire up a fuel pump switch? Are you having constant flooding problems?
With the stock ECU if you crank with the pedal to the floor it won't inject fuel to de-flood.
That said, I wouldn't put the switch on the input current side of the relay. Seems like it would make more sense to do it on the switch input side - the B/LG wire. With it where it is you have the full amperage going through the switch too, it makes more sense to leave that as-is and switch the low amp input that triggers the relay.
Dale
Yeah Prior to this install I did Cranked and Floored the gas pedal and my Car still Started, thats why I put a switch.
I might have to reconnect back to the original wiring and splice into the B/LG wire. But I also did try to reconnect the wiring, and Fuel Injectors still didn’t fire...Very Wierd.
wow isnt the whole point of deflooding to be able to start the car?
Haha Yeah, it started for a brief moment and than it flooded again...I wanted to completely disable fuel injectors in case I run into this problem again. But now its completely disabled lol.
I don’t want no Fuel coming out of Injectors when I deflood my car.
Last edited by RPOdesign; Aug 3, 2020 at 02:24 PM.
Is your motor getting weak or do you have leaky injectors? You shouldn't have anywhere near that amount of flooding issues. I don't think I've ever flooded my car.
Is your motor getting weak or do you have leaky injectors? You shouldn't have anywhere near that amount of flooding issues. I don't think I've ever flooded my car.
Dale
In the previous thread I posted up, I had a stalling issue, and than it would flood my car. So I’m just currently in a situation where it would constantly flood after it stalls, so right now I think its a good idea to have a switch to disable injectors. Which I have found to Work Better for Starting my Car up after a flood.
I just don’t want any fuel coming out of Injectors for when I have to deflood the car.
Last edited by RPOdesign; Aug 3, 2020 at 02:26 PM.
A smaller wire isn't going to prevent something from working, it will allow it to work until it gets too hot from being too small and burns apart. Remove your splice, put the connection back how it was, and consider taking your car to a rotary mechanic for a compression test and diagnosis. @DaleClark mentioned that you should not have repeated issues with flooding, it sounds like your engine may have low compression and/or you have leaky injectors due to age or someone putting in a fuel pump that flows too much for the stock FPR and is causing your injectors to leak.
A smaller wire isn't going to prevent something from working, it will allow it to work until it gets too hot from being too small and burns apart. Remove your splice, put the connection back how it was, and consider taking your car to a rotary mechanic for a compression test and diagnosis. @DaleClark mentioned that you should not have repeated issues with flooding, it sounds like your engine may have low compression and/or you have leaky injectors due to age or someone putting in a fuel pump that flows too much for the stock FPR and is causing your injectors to leak.
I almost got the car to Run and idle perfectly until I did this mod, but yeah been working on this Car too long, I’ll definitely consider taking it to a rotary specialist!
Front Housing has very Low compression. I can’t actually wait to do a rebuild. I also need to change the clutch, and also have Oil leaks...I guess this is a great time to do it!
I'd start by tearing your original one down and checking what's caused the low compression in the first place. It could just be compressed side seals on one rotor face?
You may also be able to get away with buying the Basic Engine Closing Rebuild Kit from Atkins Rotary, cleaning it up, new set of plugs and have it as good as new
