Made a Splice, now fuel injectors don’t come on.
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Made a Splice, now fuel injectors don’t come on.
Hello again,
I made a splice at the white/green wire right before the egi main relay to install a switch, and now my car is not injecting fuel when I crank the engine?
Do I have to reset the ECU to get it to work again?
I cut the wire there because I don’t want to get outside my car to unplug egi main relay to deflood car.
It sounds like there is no EGI Relay when I crank the Motor even when switch is turned on. The Relay is getting Power.
Also a beeping noise can be heard when Ignition is On and Switch is turned Off. Did I trip something when I cut the Wire?
I made a splice at the white/green wire right before the egi main relay to install a switch, and now my car is not injecting fuel when I crank the engine?
Do I have to reset the ECU to get it to work again?
I cut the wire there because I don’t want to get outside my car to unplug egi main relay to deflood car.
It sounds like there is no EGI Relay when I crank the Motor even when switch is turned on. The Relay is getting Power.
Also a beeping noise can be heard when Ignition is On and Switch is turned Off. Did I trip something when I cut the Wire?
Last edited by RPOdesign; 08-03-20 at 12:28 AM.
#2
Newly Rebuilt
Hey RPOdesign,
Do you happen to have a multi meter to test continuity?
Check that the switch is working by probing each side of the wire and turning the switch on and off.
Also, is the switch you used rated for 30 amp? If not, you may not be providing enough power to the injector relay switch for it to trigger.
That wire is also connected into the diagnostics module, this may be what's caused the beeping.
Do you happen to have a multi meter to test continuity?
Check that the switch is working by probing each side of the wire and turning the switch on and off.
Also, is the switch you used rated for 30 amp? If not, you may not be providing enough power to the injector relay switch for it to trigger.
That wire is also connected into the diagnostics module, this may be what's caused the beeping.
Last edited by Axton; 08-03-20 at 08:40 AM.
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
Hey RPOdesign,
Do you happen to have a multi meter to test continuity?
Check that the switch is working by probing each side of the wire and turning the switch on and off.
Also, is the switch you used rated for 30 amp? If not, you may not be providing enough power to the injector relay switch for it to trigger.
That wire is also connected into the diagnostics module, this may be what's caused the beeping.
Do you happen to have a multi meter to test continuity?
Check that the switch is working by probing each side of the wire and turning the switch on and off.
Also, is the switch you used rated for 30 amp? If not, you may not be providing enough power to the injector relay switch for it to trigger.
That wire is also connected into the diagnostics module, this may be what's caused the beeping.
Prior to this, I also had change All the fuses in the relay box. I put in the 32V PAL cartridge fuse with the recommended amp which I found at Autozone. Is it suppose to be 12V Fuses? I wonder if that also has something to do with it?
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Why did you wire up a fuel pump switch? Are you having constant flooding problems?
With the stock ECU if you crank with the pedal to the floor it won't inject fuel to de-flood.
That said, I wouldn't put the switch on the input current side of the relay. Seems like it would make more sense to do it on the switch input side - the B/LG wire. With it where it is you have the full amperage going through the switch too, it makes more sense to leave that as-is and switch the low amp input that triggers the relay.
Dale
With the stock ECU if you crank with the pedal to the floor it won't inject fuel to de-flood.
That said, I wouldn't put the switch on the input current side of the relay. Seems like it would make more sense to do it on the switch input side - the B/LG wire. With it where it is you have the full amperage going through the switch too, it makes more sense to leave that as-is and switch the low amp input that triggers the relay.
Dale
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Why did you wire up a fuel pump switch? Are you having constant flooding problems?
With the stock ECU if you crank with the pedal to the floor it won't inject fuel to de-flood.
That said, I wouldn't put the switch on the input current side of the relay. Seems like it would make more sense to do it on the switch input side - the B/LG wire. With it where it is you have the full amperage going through the switch too, it makes more sense to leave that as-is and switch the low amp input that triggers the relay.
Dale
With the stock ECU if you crank with the pedal to the floor it won't inject fuel to de-flood.
That said, I wouldn't put the switch on the input current side of the relay. Seems like it would make more sense to do it on the switch input side - the B/LG wire. With it where it is you have the full amperage going through the switch too, it makes more sense to leave that as-is and switch the low amp input that triggers the relay.
Dale
I might have to reconnect back to the original wiring and splice into the B/LG wire. But I also did try to reconnect the wiring, and Fuel Injectors still didn’t fire...Very Wierd.
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
I don’t want no Fuel coming out of Injectors when I deflood my car.
Last edited by RPOdesign; 08-03-20 at 02:24 PM.
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#8
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Is your motor getting weak or do you have leaky injectors? You shouldn't have anywhere near that amount of flooding issues. I don't think I've ever flooded my car.
Dale
Dale
#9
Full Member
Thread Starter
I just don’t want any fuel coming out of Injectors for when I have to deflood the car.
Last edited by RPOdesign; 08-03-20 at 02:26 PM.
#10
Full Member
Thread Starter
What size AWG wire is W/G wire?
I believe I connected 16 awg wire to the W/G wire...and 16 awg can only handle 10 amps.
The W/G is a 10 awg wire that will handle 30amps right? Maybe that’s the culprit on why Injectors don’t work...
The W/G is a 10 awg wire that will handle 30amps right? Maybe that’s the culprit on why Injectors don’t work...
#11
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
A smaller wire isn't going to prevent something from working, it will allow it to work until it gets too hot from being too small and burns apart. Remove your splice, put the connection back how it was, and consider taking your car to a rotary mechanic for a compression test and diagnosis. @DaleClark mentioned that you should not have repeated issues with flooding, it sounds like your engine may have low compression and/or you have leaky injectors due to age or someone putting in a fuel pump that flows too much for the stock FPR and is causing your injectors to leak.
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
A smaller wire isn't going to prevent something from working, it will allow it to work until it gets too hot from being too small and burns apart. Remove your splice, put the connection back how it was, and consider taking your car to a rotary mechanic for a compression test and diagnosis. @DaleClark mentioned that you should not have repeated issues with flooding, it sounds like your engine may have low compression and/or you have leaky injectors due to age or someone putting in a fuel pump that flows too much for the stock FPR and is causing your injectors to leak.
#14
Full Member
Thread Starter
Front Housing Very Low Compression
Here’s the Main Culprit...
Front Housing has very Low compression. I can’t actually wait to do a rebuild. I also need to change the clutch, and also have Oil leaks...I guess this is a great time to do it!
Front Housing has very Low compression. I can’t actually wait to do a rebuild. I also need to change the clutch, and also have Oil leaks...I guess this is a great time to do it!
#16
Newly Rebuilt
I'd start by tearing your original one down and checking what's caused the low compression in the first place. It could just be compressed side seals on one rotor face?
You may also be able to get away with buying the Basic Engine Closing Rebuild Kit from Atkins Rotary, cleaning it up, new set of plugs and have it as good as new
You may also be able to get away with buying the Basic Engine Closing Rebuild Kit from Atkins Rotary, cleaning it up, new set of plugs and have it as good as new
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