It just stopped....
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Quincy, MA
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It just stopped....
Mods:
SMIC
TO4e
Water Injection
AEM tru Boost
Down pipe
Exhaust
PFC
550 primaries
1600 secondaries
HKS Ignition
Background:
1994 R2 just had its engine rebuilt and ported. Car had oil and ¾ tank of gas. I had pre-mixed the gas with some two-cycle oil – maybe too much(?). The turbo is bad because the car smokes on start up and I think I am losing oil when parked. My assumption is the turbo seals are bad and oil is leaking in the turbo and that is why I get the smoke on start up. The smoke does not smell sweet or anything and the engine was just rebuilt. These are the two reasons I do not believe the coolant seals are the culprit.
Stoppage:
Anyway, I had been driving about 3 hours and some change. Before the “incident”, first the car began backfiring each time I would hit a substantial bump in the road. Then about 20 minutes later I was taking a curve and the car’s engine just died. I tried to restart it but no doing…it sat for about an hour before the tow truck came and I tried to start it again and no dice. The car would crank but would not turn over. I had access to all power in the car, the engine just would not start.
Help:
It has been sitting for about 3 days and I haven’t tried again (out of town)…any ideas??
Thanks in advance…
SMIC
TO4e
Water Injection
AEM tru Boost
Down pipe
Exhaust
PFC
550 primaries
1600 secondaries
HKS Ignition
Background:
1994 R2 just had its engine rebuilt and ported. Car had oil and ¾ tank of gas. I had pre-mixed the gas with some two-cycle oil – maybe too much(?). The turbo is bad because the car smokes on start up and I think I am losing oil when parked. My assumption is the turbo seals are bad and oil is leaking in the turbo and that is why I get the smoke on start up. The smoke does not smell sweet or anything and the engine was just rebuilt. These are the two reasons I do not believe the coolant seals are the culprit.
Stoppage:
Anyway, I had been driving about 3 hours and some change. Before the “incident”, first the car began backfiring each time I would hit a substantial bump in the road. Then about 20 minutes later I was taking a curve and the car’s engine just died. I tried to restart it but no doing…it sat for about an hour before the tow truck came and I tried to start it again and no dice. The car would crank but would not turn over. I had access to all power in the car, the engine just would not start.
Help:
It has been sitting for about 3 days and I haven’t tried again (out of town)…any ideas??
Thanks in advance…
#5
Eh
iTrader: (56)
Sounds like you have an electrical issue due to the backfiring over bumps. Are the tires rubbing the fender liners? Does the car have lowering springs? Original wiring harness? If so how many miles? It takes all of 5 minutes to check for fuel and spark, likely you don't have one or both. Also, next time you try to start the car look closely at the tachometer and see if it is bouncing ever so slightly while cranking. If it isn't you have a crank angle sensor issue or a damaged connection or wire leading to them.
#7
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Thanks for all the suggestions...I am still out of town I will check the following things this weekend:
1) check tach while starting
2) fuses
3) Spark plugs/wires--Is there something special here I need to do other than making sure they are connected?
4) grounds
4) fuel pressure --How can I do this?
6) vacuum lines
Any thing else?
The car has the factory alarm....it is on stock rims, springs and shocks. 149,xxx miles..stock wire harness.
Thanks again for all the help. Please keep the suggestions coming...I need this car working this summer....
1) check tach while starting
2) fuses
3) Spark plugs/wires--Is there something special here I need to do other than making sure they are connected?
4) grounds
4) fuel pressure --How can I do this?
6) vacuum lines
Any thing else?
The car has the factory alarm....it is on stock rims, springs and shocks. 149,xxx miles..stock wire harness.
Thanks again for all the help. Please keep the suggestions coming...I need this car working this summer....
Trending Topics
#8
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
Pull both lower plugs and crank over to listen for even exhaust pules out the plug holes. Listen for even pulses. If you hear pulses with gaps, your in trouble. You can also check for fuel spray out the holes. Then use one of the spark plugs to check for spark with each lead. Engines are just like fire. If you don't have fuel, oxygen/compression, and heat/spark. You have no fire or running engine.
Tip: You can do all this by yourself if you disconnect the small 12v supply wire to the starter solenoid and run an individual 12v wire direct to the battery. All this does is bypass the clutch switch, ignition switch, and anti-theft relays making easier for a single person to turn over the engine from the engine bay. Make sure the key is in the ON position and touch the wire lead to the positive cable. Also make sure the EGI fuse isn't blown. That fuse alone sends power to the injectors, all the 12v supply power to the engine harness, and alternator. Hope that helps!
#9
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Tach needle does not move while cranking...I am going to try with better light just to make sure but I was staring at it so long my eyes were hurting....
Sadly, that was all I was able to accomplish...BUSY!!!
I plan to take some pics of the engine bay and hopefully get some better help from you experts. I have to travel again :o( but when I return I will post some pics....
Thanks again for all the suggestions...
Fuses when I come back....EGI 1st right?
Sadly, that was all I was able to accomplish...BUSY!!!
I plan to take some pics of the engine bay and hopefully get some better help from you experts. I have to travel again :o( but when I return I will post some pics....
Thanks again for all the suggestions...
Fuses when I come back....EGI 1st right?
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