mncarddealer

Having trouble getting my motor to start, just finished a swap (used JDM, I bought a front clip) after 3 years of being down, and the JDM X-05 connector from the emissions harness to the front body harness is different than the usdm. I have tried to splice together a jumper harness (I'll try and get pictures tomorrow) from the JDM front harness and USDM emissions harness, and it got better, but I got something wrong. I am in need of a JDM X-05 (12-pin) wiring diagram or someone with some harness experiences help. I have air and spark, it will kick over with starting fluid, but with the JDM ECU all I get is a gunshot like backfire every once in a while, so I'm hoping someone can help me out so I dont break my newish motor.
btw, this is a 93 touring, no major mods, have Power FC, but am using JDM ECU until I get my base map finished. Thanks for any help!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Is there a reason why you are using JDM wiring?

mncarddealer

I was hoping to avoid tearing the motor down now that its in, but do I even have a choice? Now I'm going to have to rewire my X_05 connector on the USDM Harness, but the other reason I kept it was I will be running a JDM ECU, until I can get my JDM PFC flashed with a 92 octane street map. If anyone has any more advice, please let me know.

blue94FD

iTrader: (1)

later when I have time, ill take some pictures and if they don't come out clear enough, i'll write up what goes where. so you can have everything connected properly(minus all the emmisions crap. since i removed all of it) with no check engine light.

but theres no need to change the harness. just by taking the pins out of the jspec connector and sticking them in the same holes, that the same color wires were in on the us spec connector, it will run fine. but you will have a check engine light plus a few codes, 1 being the fuel thermo sensor.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you do realize that every PFC is "JDM" ? For purposes of this discussion, there is only one version for all series 6 cars, and that is model # 414-Z004 . That's why it is necessary to cut or depin 3 (4 on Cali cars) wires for US spec emissions equipment (such as the accelerated warmup system) on the US harness to make them work right. Apex'i specifically says that in the PFC instructions. Furthermore, the CEL knock warning on the PFC doesn't work correctly out of the box on US cars because the signal comes out on a pin that is not used on the US harness.

Furthermore, the PFC basemap (unless it is a very early production PFC, model 414-Z002 on the side of the box) is safer than the stock ECU, JDM or otherwise. All you need to do is reset the PFC (on the commander, etc. --> all data init) and discard your JDM ECU. Why didn't you just put all your US spec wiring and other stuff on to the JDM shortblock in the first place? All you needed was a shortblock that wasn't fragged, correct? Or did you just get a rolling chassis without an engine harness?

The most reliable long term way to do this is to undo everything you just did and bring your wiring back to USDM, minus any emissions wires/plugs you may choose to remove. Find a used US spec harness on the forums if you need to. Clean it, and if any connectors are messed up just depin them and replace them with the connectors from the J spec harness you now have. You can then throw an extra layer of electrical tape and possibly some split-tube wiring loom around the whole harness and it should get the job done.

You made more work for yourself. Don't fight the design of the vehicle you are working on if you don't have to. The series 6 PFC works fine on a US engine harness, and a US engine harness is the correct length while working correctly out of the box. Hacked up harnesses have more failure points and are much harder to service over the life of the vehicle, even if the modifications were done correctly. Ever notice how most weird electrical gremlins people have (minus the usual bad switches etc that every FD gets) are due to somebody messing with some kind of factory wiring?

also, for the benefit of anybody else reading this thread who has an untuned PFC and wants to make it safer as at least a temporary solution: Here is a guide to a quick DIY safety tune on a PFC basemap using only the Commander. The whole thing can be done in your driveway in about 20 minutes. The PFC timing map needs an across-the-board adjustment on the trailing side, and the Commander has a feature buried in it that will allow you to quickly add fuel at the higher rpms to prevent a lean condition. Actually I think I am going to make full writeup now, I've done most of the work.



Here is the leading timing map for Power FC model #414-Z002 , the early production ones that most people don't have. Supposedly this is very similar to the stock ECU's timing map, and by stock ECU I mean stock JDM ECU because again the PFC was designed only for Japanese spec cars. I imagine the timing maps on the US and JDM ECU's were very similar under load. X axis is RPM, Y axis is MAP . 10000 units is about 1 bar, so at 10psi boost you are at something near 17000 units.



Now here is the leading timing map for Power FC model #414-Z004, the model that most people have. Notice less leading timing advance in the boost area?



The basemap trailing timing on the PFC model #414-Z004 , the model that most people have, is less safe once you get over about 10psi. But that is correctable even with a commander just by tediously going through the IGT screen, rows P16-P18 (8.5psi to 14 psi range), and retarding the timing (decrease the timing value) by about 4 degrees in every cell over say 2400 rpm (N7 and higher columns in the commander).

Finally, to make the fuel safer (provided that your fuel pump and injectors can flow enough) you can quickly add fuel across the board based on RPM. It is a sub menu under setting --> PIM volt.

Get to the RPM correction screen and add whatever % fuel you think may be necessary. You can fiddle with it more if you have a wideband. You could also do boost-based compensation (the bottom screen there) but since it is in MAP sensor voltage you would be doing a lot of guesswork.

The PFC base leading map, coupled with some adjustments to the trailing map and a fuel correction adjustment will make your car much safer to drive until you can get a proper tune done with someone you are comfortable with. I would personally drive around a mildly modded FD with these adjustments all day long, but I have tuning experience.

mncarddealer

So my PFC is # FD3S4020-3378, but my harness was long enough, and the only difference seems to be the x-05 engine to front harness connector, for which I made a jumper harness (dont have good pin removal tool). It wont even kick over, it acts like the timing is way off. Anybody know an easy way to test the CAS that doesn't require tearing this motor down? I needed an entire motor/turbos so this swap seemed easiest, but it should have started once I put the jumper harness in. I dont have Datalogit, so I cant check it that way (like your pics), as soon as I can afford it that is on my list of things to buy. I'm really tired of spending hours on this car with no results, but I think it's getting close now. Is there a pinout somewhere on the Diagnostic connector that I could check the CAS with?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Hook up the PFC. Set the commander to monitor--1 channel mode, and then set that to rpm. Does anything show up during cranking? You can use peak/hold mode to see if it went over zero, or use the graph mode. I don't think that's the model/part number for your PFC, I think that's a different number. Your model number should begin with 414. I don't have a PFC in front of me right now so I can't tell you where to look. But it doesn't matter much because it is probably just a 414-Z004 like almost every other one. In that case, it would be safer to drive with a PFC than a stock ECU even if you don't have a datalogit.

Are you sure the engine isn't flooded? Have you seen this page of the FSM yet?

mncarddealer

So, I'm showing rpm while cranking, up to 250 or so, and I know the motors not flooded, everything is dry when I checked the plugs/wires (in proper order). I'm still looking for a pic or a quick write up on which fuel line is which... I know my low pressure hose is in the center, but which side does the feed go to? I do my tests with both. And what is the third line for? Carbon can? So the problem appears to be fuel to the motor but not through the injectors. Any ideas?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...uel+line+order