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IAT sensor failure? Is it common?

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Old May 20, 2018 | 12:53 PM
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IAT sensor failure? Is it common?

OK so now that I have my SMIC issues out of the way with no kids underwear blockage in the end tank, the temps are down but I'm still getting heat soaked badly. I'm seeing my IAT readings all over the map now, like it will be 50 and then drop suddenly within two seconds down to 42, and then fly back up again. I'm thinking that maybe the sensor has failed?

I need to do this quickly before thursday, is it common for this sensor to fail and where can I get one? I do not plan to relocate it for now.
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Old May 20, 2018 | 01:01 PM
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I’m not sure on failure rate, but I know they’re slow to react. Upgrade it to a fast reacting air temp sensor. You’ll need to put a new plug on that part of the harness but it’s pretty easy.
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Old May 20, 2018 | 06:43 PM
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Mine failed with 54k original miles on it. Threw a code and everything (stock ECU).

I would replace it to be sure. Only the stock ECU is smart enough to diagnose failed sensors, with the exception of something unplugged showing up on a PFC. So it's a guessing game to some extent.

If you change to fast acting sensor you need to check the AFR's. They will change and could require some retuning.
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Old May 20, 2018 | 09:05 PM
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at the dealership we used to sell a fair amount of these sensors, they do go bad. typically the CEL only came on for the IAT, ECT or the EGR switch. occasionally you'd get surprised with a turbo solenoid or something, but pretty rare. the CAS codes meant you need a harness
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Old May 20, 2018 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by arghx
Mine failed with 54k original miles on it. Threw a code and everything (stock ECU).

I would replace it to be sure. Only the stock ECU is smart enough to diagnose failed sensors, with the exception of something unplugged showing up on a PFC. So it's a guessing game to some extent.

If you change to fast acting sensor you need to check the AFR's. They will change and could require some retuning.
Are we assuming the table values to be with skewed heat-soak values and that the change to the fast acting will change that?
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Old May 20, 2018 | 11:44 PM
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Oh I have an adaptronic select...so I don't think there is any code to see if there is a malfunction. I'll just replace the sensor anyway...can it be done without removing the UIM? And if it has to come off, what parts should I prepare before doing it (gasket, etc.)?
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Old May 21, 2018 | 12:42 AM
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Last time I drove my car in the canyon, I noticed my IAT reading from PFC Commander sometimes just doesn't make sense. It could show -1°, -2°. I pulled over and it went back to normal (42°C). But then it happened again, and I had to restart my engine to get normal reading. I worry if my fuel injection can go differently if the ECU does count in that abnormal IAT reading. But I didn't feel any difference in driving when it does that.
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Old May 21, 2018 | 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Skeese
Are we assuming the table values to be with skewed heat-soak values and that the change to the fast acting will change that?
basically. Your main fuel and IAT compensation are set with one kind of thermal condition assumed and now that thermal condition has changed.
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Old May 21, 2018 | 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mkiv98
.... I'll just replace the sensor anyway...can it be done without removing the UIM? And if it has to come off, what parts should I prepare before doing it (gasket, etc.)?
As has been said, they do fail but IIRC you don’t really need a CEL to know something is wrong. I seem to remember harder starting, a real lumpy rich idle and poor acceleration. And no, IMO the UIM has to come off...unless you have hands the size of a toddler or good at building ships in a bottle wearing a blindfold. I’ve heard of guys modding/bending a wrench to do it, but probably just as easy to just pull the UIM. Other than that, the UIM to LIM metal gasket can usually be re-used but new ones aren’t expensive. Just be sure to torque carefully to spec.

Option #2...Reach under and unplug the connector, leave old sensor in place, cut and solder an extension for the two-wire connector and relocate a fast reacting sensor just downstream of the IC. Less heat soak, better real-time readings and no pulling the UIM.

Last edited by Sgtblue; May 21, 2018 at 06:22 AM.
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Old May 21, 2018 | 08:38 AM
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I see them go bad all the time. Replace it with a fast acting sensor and tune accordingly. The stock sensor is just too slow to respond: You're in traffic and car heat soaks. Traffic opens up and you get on it. Ecu thinks intake temps are still through the roof and pulls fuel according to the temperature correction on the fuel map. You detonate and blow up.
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Old May 21, 2018 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by IRPerformance
I see them go bad all the time. Replace it with a fast acting sensor and tune accordingly. The stock sensor is just too slow to respond: You're in traffic and car heat soaks. Traffic opens up and you get on it. Ecu thinks intake temps are still through the roof and pulls fuel according to the temperature correction on the fuel map. You detonate and blow up.
Is there any direct swap replacement with a fast acting sensor that is plug and play? Where would one get this sensor?
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Old May 21, 2018 | 09:51 AM
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Fast Reacting Sensors - Wannaspeed

Get the p n p harness too.
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Old May 21, 2018 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mkiv98
Is there any direct swap replacement with a fast acting sensor that is plug and play? Where would one get this sensor?
The sensor sold by LMS EFI is a direct fit into the FD UIM and can be orderes with a PnP harness to adapt it to the oem IAT plug on the FD harness. This sensor doesnt require a change in the ecu calibration as its output is extremely similar to the oem sensor, its just faster.

https://lms-efi-llc.myshopify.com/co...x-7-direct-fit

Skeese
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Old May 21, 2018 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Skeese
The sensor sold by LMS EFI is a direct fit into the FD UIM and can be orderes with a PnP harness to adapt it to the oem IAT plug on the FD harness. This sensor doesnt require a change in the ecu calibration as its output is extremely similar to the oem sensor, its just faster.

https://lms-efi-llc.myshopify.com/co...x-7-direct-fit

Skeese
So this can be safely used with a stock ECM?
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Old May 21, 2018 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jza80
So this can be safely used with a stock ECM?
I would not recommend it. The stock ecm is not fast enough to respond.
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Old May 21, 2018 | 03:12 PM
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Bummer then.

I run a PFC normally but have to return to the stock ECM every two years for CA emissions inspection. Would like to use the faster sensor, but I don't want to have to pull my UIM every time. Bad enough I have to swap ECM's...
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Old May 21, 2018 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jza80
Bummer then.

I run a PFC normally but have to return to the stock ECM every two years for CA emissions inspection. Would like to use the faster sensor, but I don't want to have to pull my UIM every time. Bad enough I have to swap ECM's...
I would think it would be fine for that purpose. I wouldnt use it on a stock computer in a day to day setting or running it hard but if you're just putting the ecu in to baby it over to an emissions check it shouldnt matter. I doubt you'd trigger any error codes or any fuel oddities by using the sensor with the oem ecu.

Skeese
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Old May 21, 2018 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jza80
Bummer then.

I run a PFC normally but have to return to the stock ECM every two years for CA emissions inspection. Would like to use the faster sensor, but I don't want to have to pull my UIM every time. Bad enough I have to swap ECM's...
let me buy your car, then you don't have to worry about smog ever again! I'm local too

I just picked up a new stock IAT sensor locally. I'm just going to swap this in for now because I need to track my car this weekend, I'll worry about the fast acting one later

Last edited by mkiv98; May 21, 2018 at 06:04 PM.
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Old May 21, 2018 | 10:12 PM
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Ok I took apart my UIM and found that there is already the wannaspeed PNP harness attached to what the previous owner just told me is a triumph sensor, which he calibrated himself. so it may be tricky for me to swap this out for a stock one if I need to retune yet again.

I don't think I can return the stock IAT sensor, does anyone want it? or should I still try to use it instead of the triumph one?
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Old May 22, 2018 | 02:12 AM
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I guess I will try to locally source the same triumph sensor...can I just swap a new one in as long as it is the same part? Without having to go through any sort of calibration mess?
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Old May 24, 2018 | 07:31 PM
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If it's the PNP harness, you should be able to unplug it and hook it to the original sensor.
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Old May 25, 2018 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Narfle
If it's the PNP harness, you should be able to unplug it and hook it to the original sensor.
Oh you mean remove the PNP harness altogether? I talked to the previous owner, he had carefully calibrated the triumph sensor to my ECU so it will be easier and cheaper for me to just get another triumph sensor...I have one that's supposed to arrive at a local triumph dealer tomorrow, but I think my sensor is working ok now, it's not giving crazy fluctuations or weird readings anymore. I just installed a vented CF hood too, so temps should hopefully go down. I have to go back to my tuner tomorrow for an unrelated reason anyway...

I'm just in a hurry bc I have to be at laguna seca on sunday. For some reason everything likes to break right before track days.
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Old May 25, 2018 | 12:55 AM
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I dont know what calibration was required. It's supposed to be a direct swap. It measures temperature across the same voltage.
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Old May 25, 2018 | 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Narfle
I dont know what calibration was required. It's supposed to be a direct swap. It measures temperature across the same voltage.
oh. then I just wasted a ton of time, lol
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