HELP!! no spark
05-15-09, 08:03 PM
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HELP!! no spark
Hey, I know there are multiple threads on no spark, but I think I have gone through just about all of them and still have made no progress. I just finished putting my motor in and it would not start, after some inspection I have determined that I have no spark. I took the uim of to make sure that the coils are connected properly, and they are. The CAS was a problem in some people's cars and my wires were in fact all cut but I re-soldered new leads from the plugs, and based on the wire color got them all soldered up to the correct wires. Is there anything else it could possibly be? please help I need to drive my car home tonight!!!
05-15-09, 08:04 PM
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I forgot to add that someone claimed that the ground by the lower driver's side is often overlooked, and mine is in fact connected to a bracket that is bolted to the rotor housing. Should I maybe bolt this ground directly to the block?
05-15-09, 08:10 PM
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I don't have access to a continuity tester, is there any other way to check? Also by the ecu there is one plug that isn't connected. It has a single black wire going to it and it is a black plug. I don't know if this was previously connected or not but could this be affecting the ignition?
05-15-09, 08:25 PM
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I checked over the short harness connector where I disconnected it to get the wire harness out to pull the motor. All the wires seem to be in good condition and are still quite flexible with no visible breaks or splits. Everything seems to be fine at that point...
05-15-09, 09:38 PM
#6
Is the Tach bouncing just ever so slightly when the car is cranking over? If not the problem is with the CAS most likely. Have you checked your EGI fuse? Have you verified you are getting fuel(not just fuel pressure to the lines but verified the injectors are spraying)?
05-15-09, 11:05 PM
#7
I don't have access to a continuity tester, is there any other way to check? Also by the ecu there is one plug that isn't connected. It has a single black wire going to it and it is a black plug. I don't know if this was previously connected or not but could this be affecting the ignition?
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05-15-09, 11:08 PM
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I just put the uim back on to make sure that the tach was in fact bouncing, and it is. I had checked the cas this way earlier but I just wanted to be sure... As for the EGI fuse, I replaced it with another 30 amp fuse and nothing seems different. How would I check the the injectors are spraying?? because I do have pressure to the lines.
05-16-09, 04:35 PM
#10
I just put the uim back on to make sure that the tach was in fact bouncing, and it is. I had checked the cas this way earlier but I just wanted to be sure... As for the EGI fuse, I replaced it with another 30 amp fuse and nothing seems different. How would I check the the injectors are spraying?? because I do have pressure to the lines.
A more certain test is to actually disconnect the primary rail from the block lift up the rail and put a towel under the rail, have a friend crank the car for about 1 second max and you will see the fuel come spraying out. Be advised that it will spray more fuel than you imagine
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