So I picked up an RE-A Boost gauge with the top steering console mount, and was hoping I could get some clarifications on how to install it

I've been reading up on some guides so I get the general idea of it all, but here's a few specific questions for this particular gauge:


1.) The only electrical wires from the gauge are a white and black one. I'm guessing I should extend them and run them to the Fuse panel by the dead pedal, and then ground the black wire and attach a spade connector to the white power wire?

My question is where exactly in the Fuse box should I plug in the white power wire? One place I read said to put it in the AUX port, and another person said to put it in the Sunroof port?

2.) Also, if I plug it into the Fuse box... how will the light in the Boost gauge turn on, when I turn on the other lights?


3.) Included in the package was a regular vacuum hose line, and also this one brass compression fitting. Since there's only the regular vacuum line, what am I supposed to do with this brass fitting?

4.) Finally, since the gauge reads in both BAR (kg/cm2) and mm/hg, how do I make sure it reads in BAR rather than mm/hg? I'm assuming that brass fitting might have something to do with it?


Thanks!!

 

For the backlight i just tap into the + and - of the cigar lighter lamp. Comes on with your lights then.. Rix

 

Yep, easiest way is to tap the white wire into some wire that is on with your headlights. Easiest is the light for the cigarette lighter since it's close to the gauge itself.

The gauge reads boost as kg/cm2, and vacuum as mm/hg. It will use the full range of the gauge. Just FYI, boost is kilograms per centimeter squared and vacuum is millimeters of mercury, that's normal. Kg/cm2 is about 14.2 psi to 1, just for your info. Stock boost is around .7 kg/cm2.

For the vacuum line, just hook it up like any other boost gauge to the extra nipple on the upper intake manifold. Not sure what the fitting is for, might want to post a picture up of it. That may just be to adapt the line to fit a different size hose or something.

Dale

 

Nice thanks for the help... so just splice in the white wire to the cig light, and then ground the black wire somewhere?

Reason I was talking about the Fuse box thing was because I was reading this guide:
http://home.ptd.net/~blouzbee/guides/boost.html


As for the Brass fitting, you can see it pictured here:



But basically, ignoring the fitting and plugging the vacuum hose to the UIM and then directly to the boost gauge should work?



Also since we're on the subject of getting to the cigarette lighter's wires... can anyone help on how to remove the Gauge cluster trim/surround, as well as the A/C control trim/surround? I ran some searches and couldn't find anything too useful. I know how to take off the trim around the shifter, and I guess you're supposed to take off the gauge cluster trim first before getting off the A/C Radio trim?

 

Gauge cluster removal, Undo the couple of screws underneath the cluster,

remove steering wheel and cowl.

undo the two steering colum bolts so it drops a bit. And gently but firmly pull towards you and slightly upwards..

but not to far as you have to unplug about 5 connectors and you could damage the circuit board.

Its held inplace with some spring clips. easy as hell to break.

The heater control panel is just a couple of screws you can see when the cowls off. Thinks thats all if i remember right. Rix oh n is that fitting for extending the pipe if required.

 

This might help aswell. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/removing-dashboard-849667/

 

That brass fitting looks to be a restrictor - it's probably a small orifice so the reaction of the gauge will be smoother and won't bounce around as much.

You really don't *need* to install that restrictor, try it with and without and see what you like best.

Dale

 

I have experienced some mechanical VDO gauges which exhibited an ever so slight but annoying fluttering noise without a restrictor/check valve inserted between the vacuum source and gauge. I never had an issue with my Defi mechanical gauge while it was installed on my FD. It is possible it was an isolated issue to that model from VDO.

 

I'll probably install it straight on without the restrictor valve/fitting and see if I get that fluttering issue.

If I do, I'll split the vacuum hose in half somewhere in the engine bay, and stick on that fitting

 

The RE Amemiya gauge is so sensitive that it is unusable without that restrictor. The needle will dance continuously, even at idle.

 

In that case I'll use it


It doesn't matter where along the vacuum line I choose to install the restrictor right? I can put it in the middle of the line in the engine bay, or right before the boost gauge and it'll work the same?

 

Well I installed it and put the restrictor about a foot away from the gauge... the jumpiness of the needle isn't too bad but the read out is completely whack

When the car is off it sits at 1 bar, and when I'm idling it's always around 0.4.

As soon as I even touch the accelerator pedal the needle flies up like crazy to the max it can go. Not sure what's going on, I connected the boost gauge's vacuum line to the nipple on the UIM ...





The actual column mount has problems too, it fits like crap... wish RE amemiya made a LHD version. The holes where the levers go are way off



How have people remedied this? If I dremel the holes wider to be flush, then they'll be way too wide

 

Anybody? I know there's people out there with this boost gauge...

I tried flipping around the restrictor pill and it does the same thing

 

anybody...

 

1. Is this a new or used unit?

2. When you first received the gauge, was the needle off zero?

3. Where did you end up getting your power source from? (have you tried disconnecting the power to see if it had any affect on the reading... it shouldn't on a mechanical gauge, but who knows)

4. I have the RE-A steering column gauge holder and don't remember having fitment issues... I'll check mine again for your issues...

 

1. It was a new unit

2. I honestly can't remember, but the last time I checked when I took it off, the needle kept going higher and higher

3. I ran it to the ash tray light

4. The main issue, as you see in the picture, is the holes on the sides for the levers look really ugly since they don't line up. Did you just leave it as is?



I'm PRETTY sure I ran the line and everything correctly, I mean how many different ways is there to install a mechanical boost gauge... I used the included vacuum line from the nipple on the UIM inside the cabin, then I used the restrictor pill about a foot or so away from the gauge, and another vacuum line from that to the boost gauge.

 

I don't know the gauge at all. So I'll just toss this out there.

Is there anyway to do a "recalibration" on it. Any thing on the back of the gauge that would do this?

If not, I'm pretty sure you've got a defective gauge. Your install is exactly like my Autometer but without a resister pill. Did you try it without the pill? Double check that nothing is pinched anywhere (although none of that would result in a 1bar offset with the car turned off)

EDIT: Removed double negative

 

The boost gauge was indeed defective, as unlikely as it is since it was brand new

But RHDJapan exchanged it for me


I installed the replacement gauge yesterday and it seems like it's working as it should. However, even though the gauge looks like it's reading it properly with boost, it doesn't seem to give a normalized readout depending on which gear I'm in. For example, the boost gauge doesn't go up nearly as quick in first gear... but when I'm in third gear and I get on boost a little bit, it will go up to 0.7 kg/cm2 (~10psi) before I'm even into the secondaries... fourth gear is similar as well, any bit of boosting will quickly get it close to 0.7 and that's when I let off. Comparatively I can go into the secondary turbo on like 1st or 2nd gear and the boost will still be climbing at around 0.5

I don't get it... low boost activity in lower gears and third and fourth is past 10psi

 

The actual column mount has problems too, it fits like crap... wish RE amemiya made a LHD version. The holes where the levers go are way off



How have people remedied this? If I dremel the holes wider to be flush, then they'll be way too wide .
Would you be able to fit a rhd bottom and stalks on so it all lines up good. I have a suspected faulty switch assembly you could try and a bottom peice. Rix

 

I have a similar issue too. I bought the RE-A boost gauge brand new, and it sits at zero. Then used for 1 year, no problem, and then second year out winter storage, problem starts to happen.

Just like Farkel, when the car is completely shut down, the needle won't rest at zero anymore. Its arond 0.5 area. Then I try to give it a little tab with my finger, the needle go up even further to 0.7. when I start the car up, everything seems fine.... its just when the car is shut down completely, the needle won't rest at zero anymore.

Any idea?

 

It might be possible to disassemble the gauge and re-clock the needle, but you risk throwing off the accuracy of the unit. I did that with an autometer mechanical boost gauge once. Just make sure to test it afterward, with another confirmed-accurate gauge.

 

I don't know do I want to dissemble the the gauge and re-clock it myself..... bit its funny that, when I finger tab the gauge, the needle goes up further.

Even I use a cloth to clean the interior of the car, and cloth slightly touch the gauge, the needle is going upward as I wiping the gauge now too.... (Car is shut off, battery off, winter storage). This is making me not to clean the RE-A gauge now.....