I'm replacing a leaky FPD. I have the UIM off and can see the FPD. I tried taking the LIM off, but found only 3 bolts and it won't budge.

So I tried attacking from the solenoid side. I removed the coils but can't budge the phillips screws on the solenoid rack without stripping the heads. Is there a simple way to remove the solenoid rack?

Should I just remove the primary injector rail instead?
Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated.

 

The server is not letting me upload a pic. Here is where I am currently:

www.geocities.com/roadsterdoc/sol.JPG

You might have to cut and paste the url into your browser because geocites doesn't always direct link.

 

Install A New #2 Phillips head "bit" in a socket, (not sure what size) and then use your ratchet to pop it off. You need to keep a lot of "forward" pressure on the bit while turning the screws to get them out without stripping. If you have a small butane pencil tip torch you can also heat the outside of the rack's nuts very gently. Works like a charm, just make SURE there is no gasoline or vapors hangin' around from the leaky FPD or you'll be dead roadsterdoc!.

 

I can't get your link to work.

Ron suggested a good way of getting at the screws. That's what I did (the phillips bit in the rachet), but if you can't get that to work, another thing you can do is remove the whole bracket/rack assembly. I believe it is held on by a few 12mm bolts. Jonski has some good pictures of it if you don't know what I'm talking about. Do a search on Jonski's posts if you want more info.

 

I think the search function is messup up, because I only got 36 hits when searching for FPD. There should be well over a hundred. Anyways, think this is the pic paw140 was talking about:


It's a HUGE pain to remove the whole thing, so avoid it if possible.

 

yeah, don't pull the LIM, you'll need a new gasket if you do

 

Get you self an impact screw driver, it's about 15-20 bucks at most auto parts stores or Sear. It works with a hammer, it'll take out any stubborn screw without rounding them.
Replace those hoses will you're at it.

 

An impact driver won't work for two reasons:

1) The rather flimsy frame will absorb the blow
and deform. All you'll end up doing is bending the
frame.

2) There is no way you can get to the screws on the
rear with an impact driver. Even a stubby screw
driver is a tight fit.

Impact drivers are a good option where the object
that is holding the screw is solid, heavy, hard and won't "give", like an engine case. A decent quality one with a few bits will set you back aboout $150.00 or more. Brute force is usually the last option when trying to free stuck fasteners since half the time you end up breaking the fastener.

 

just in case you strip the screws on the solenoid rack, you can use the smallest pair of vice grips you can find, and twist them out the lateral way. i stripped mine, and this is how i have gotten them out the last two times i had to pull the rack.

oh, and as for the fpd, i think i remember that it was a pain to get it out until i finally pulled it out from the fat fuel line that it is plugged into. also, make sure there is no more pressure in your fuel system, or you will watch your car catch on fire every time you drive it for the next few weeks.

good luck, and be very careful around those clear oil injector lines.

 

Hehehe ^^^