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Does anyone know the dimensions of the 90 deg blue coolant hose going from the driver’s side of the radiator by the AC pulley? I’d like to order a black replacement but the blue hose is on the car right now so it’s hard to check.
The radiator hoses are 1.5" ID. I recently replaced mine with a black one to match my other hoses. This is what I got. I had to cut down the straights to match the greddy hose.
I've read this thread a few times over but I'm curious what people are doing who:
Greddy Vmount
Have AC
Have the SBG (or similar) version of an oil cooler
Here's my problem, had to bend the big line ever so slightly to get it around the oil thermostat. Now it won't reach without having the line re-made (Which I can do, but if there's a better way.... )
I ended up taking the line to FWB Radiator and they cut and re-crimped an extra 6 inches of hose to route around and tuck up under the cross member neatly.
how is everyone running this line with the oem oil cooler? I'm running into the same problem. Do I have to bend it at the compressor side to give it more length?
I got the 99 spec kraken 25 row sbg dual oil cooler and greddy v mount as well just waiting in them to come in so I’ll have the same problem. Could you post more pics and also an approximate labor cost to get the modifications done to make the AC fit please.
I also remember seeing a picture @IRPerformance had posted somewhere of the JP3 battery relocation posted up on the RH side of the car rather than the original mounting location... can't find it.
@IRPerformance I have the JP3 kit and it isn’t going to fit with the AC… wondering how you ran the positive and negative wires from the fuse block to the RH side? Last thing I want is a fire.
Relocate the dryer. We do it all the time with custom lines. The battery positive we ran along the body harness at the core support. The negative we grounded on the passenger side.
@IRPerformance If you are selling modified ac lines to work with the JP3 Battery Mount I would like to purchase them!
Also it has come to my attention that my TNS relay is getting wet snd is now causing issues. I have sealed with silicone during the install but perhaps I did it in the wrong fashion. Never noticed this issue since the car was always in the garage until recently when I had to use its spot in the garage. During this time we happen to catch a couple days of rain. Would like to fix this issue should the car get caught in the rain again.
We do not currently offer pre-made lines for sale. Due to the differences between each engine bay layout each set is custom made to the car. We use the SUR&R system. As for the relay box, flip it upright. The later Greddy kits finally tell you to do this.
I noticed that the other issue with the JP3 kit and the ver2 Greddy kit was the intercooler duct does not allow for shifting over to the RH side due to the wire loom passing under the cross member. The duct is cut to allow the loom to pass but shifting over would result in it not working.
I noticed that the other issue with the JP3 kit and the ver2 Greddy kit was the intercooler duct does not allow for shifting over to the RH side due to the wire loom passing under the cross member. The duct is cut to allow the loom to pass but shifting over would result in it not working.
If you can, I would just notch the duct to allow for the harness to pass through and rivet a plate to cover the original notch. We weren't aware of the revamp and will look into how we can adapt our current battery tray kit.
@JP3 Motorsports I will say your kit is very high quality and impressive so anyone running the V1 should be happy to use it. I think I may just have to order the Battery Fuse Block Bracket from you guys and sell the PC680 battery kit.
Just thought I’d share pics of my drier relocation. Used the bracket for the AST bottle from the V mount kit. Had to cut the condenser bracket to fit the a/c lines through Put a tight u bend to take up slack.
I noticed that the other issue with the JP3 kit and the ver2 Greddy kit was the intercooler duct does not allow for shifting over to the RH side due to the wire loom passing under the cross member. The duct is cut to allow the loom to pass but shifting over would result in it not working.
Pete,
Do you have any pictures of the Ver.2 ducting in this area? I can't see any differences in the pictures of the Ver.2 kit and mine on the Trust website, but I tried to flip the fusebox the way Greddy now says to do it, but I am running into an issue with getting the intercooler ducting back in now because its hitting the loom. I'm trying not to hack mine up, but if I could see how Greddy does it, I'd be more comfortable cutting my duct. I even tried to zip tie the loom tighter to the cross member, but I can't get enough room.