if you have version one your duct will not have the cut out to allow you to pass the fuse box the new way. If you have version one you will have to pass the fuse box over the top and upside down or cut your duct so that it has the cut out like version two.

Ver2 duct below from the bumper looking inside and up.

 

Thanks! That is exactly what I was looking for.

 

sorry for the late reply- can’t remember what version I have. What potential problem do you see?

 

You’ll only have issues if you want to install the JP3 battery kit with Ver2. Ver2 has the cutout in the duct. It is the newest version and I imagine what most people have recently been able to order for last 6-9 months.

 

I see. No, I don’t have the cut out in the duct, but I do need to cut out material to accommodate the fuse box wiring. That being said, I’m not sure how that impacts the JP3. I have LHD, and I mounted mine on the driver side. I think you can see it in the previous pics I posted.

 

It shouldn't impact your battery install. If you are keeping your air conditioning, you'll need to figure out how to mount the drier and route the lines to fit with the battery.

 

For those of you with the Turblown turbo kits, what did you do for the intake/air filter setup? The upper radiator hose routes right in front of the turbo inlet, leaving very little room. Aside from running no filter, I am thinking about rerouting the radiator hose to run below the turbo inlet, then back up to the radiator inlet.

 

I guess it would depend on the size of the turbo you are running, but a lot of people have a custom pipe made for the intake and filter.

 

I can't imagine mounting the relay box there, and then having one of those relays go bad and having to take my bumper off to get to it.

 

Have the same problem as you (I think I might have met you at the 7s day meet)
Here's what it looks like -- this is with a 45 degree coupler


Greddy Vmount + turblown mainfold

 

I reworked the radiator hose so it dips down further from the filler neck, over under the turbo inlet, then back up to the radiator inlet. Required new silicone elbows and couplers to make it.

 

Hey fellas -- if you guys are looking to get AC back in your FD when running the Greddy Vmount kit, we just released brackets to mount up an RX8 condenser to the radiator included in the Greddy kit.

More details on our site:
https://jp3motorsports.com/collectio...er-bracket-kit

 

Thanks for the info. I think we met at a meet a while back.

Okay, that's what I was thinking of doing. The CX Racing website has a bunch of different pipe bends and couplers to choose from. I should be able to come up with a way to re-route the radiator hose under the turbo inlet.

 

Hey guys, here's a look at the reworked hose i created to clear the Turblown single turbo, and what I made to relocate the fuse box so you can actually get to it without taking the bumper off:

 

super helpful pictures thanks!

 

I have the same problem to but am working on a solution where there will be a pipe welded to the inlet of the turbo, then connects to a custom air box that is enclosed with a K and N airfilter

 

So I ended up buying this 1.5" diameter 120 deg aluminum pipe, which fit really nicely. I didn't have to modify it. I just cut up the original lower radiator hose and used two of the bends with this pipe in the middle. It gave enough clearance to run a 4" intake pipe.
https://www.cxracing.com/aluminum-pi.../PIP150-120-10

 

Hi guys ... we have recently released our AC line kit for the LHD FDs running the Greddy Vmount. The kit is setup to allow use of the RX8 AC condenser and compressor. We have other iterations that will be offered like mounting the RX8 condenser to the OEM / OEM replacement radiators, as well as RHD FDs.

Video overview is posted here:

Line Kit is available here:
DENSO Evaporator - https://jp3motorsports.com/products/...76284de9&_ss=r
MANA Evaporator - https://jp3motorsports.com/products/...76284de9&_ss=r

RX8 Condenser brackets to attach the RX8 condenser to the Greddy Vmount radiator:
https://jp3motorsports.com/products/...76284de9&_ss=r

 

For those that want airtight ducting for the IC and radiator and find the Greddy supplied sheet metal a little wanting in that regard, here are the templates for a tight ducting arrangement that I made. Pretty obvious, but the heat transferred with an air-to-air heat exchanger is proportional to mass flow, so the more air flow the better. The Greddy setup lets air escape all over the place. And one sheet metal piece they supply seems purposely designed to block air from the back quarter of the IC(!)

This design is for the following setup, but is easily modifiable for others:
- Greddy Vmount
- JP3 RX8 A/C conversion
- JP3 PC680 battery box (although my battery is a slightly smaller Braille. Really, Lithium batteries are awesome - they are like a fifth the weight and probably as powerful a a full-size lead-acid.)
JP3 IC mount that shifts it over a bit to make room for the battery box

To avoid blocking any fins and ensure the entire IC can be used, the IC is sealed along the front and back side vertical surfaces. The left and right seals assume some tall soft foam (e.g. 5/8 or higher) to seal against the end caps. I used the foam strip that came with the Greddy vmount kit here.


Suggestions:
- This isn't perfect and we are talking sheet metal so not really precise and every car is likely a little different. Be prepared to tweak and adjust for your setup.
- Make the templates with stiff poster-type paper first, check fitment, then cut and bend the sheet metal.
- The .04" sheet metal (same as the Greddy supplied) can be cut with shears with difficulty if the shape is first roughed out with a 24 tooth/in blade in a mini sawzall or equivalent. Have to be careful with this...
- I used a cheap 18" harbor freight sheet metal brake for as many of the bends as I could. It helps to be as precise as possible, so play with that on some scrap pieces first to see where to place a bend to get a certain dimension.
- The templates don't show the bolt holes necessary to put it together as this is best figured out after the sheet metal is bent, so one can drill the holes through both mated pieces at the same time.
- I don't like assembling with a loose nut and a loose bolt, so used press-fit nuts wherever possible. I also used rivet nuts in a few spots (at those left and right wings at the top of the radiator, and the mount tabs on the front of the IC) to further minimize loose nuts.
- If a hole drilled for a press-fit nut ends up too large, tape some 3M high temp flue tape over the hole to add material, press the nut in, then tape over the top of the nut with the flue tape to help keep it in place. This is the same tape I use on wheel weights for the track. This worked really great and saved having to remake some of the pieces.
- Think of all the ways air can escape without going through one of the heat exchangers, and block them off. Use 1/6" ultra soft foam between sheetmetal pieces. Put foam on the sides of the JP3 AC condenser mounts. The Greddy radiator doesn't have fins all the way up to the end caps - big air gaps there so block those with high-temp foam. Etc. Etc.
- Use ultra-soft high-temp adhesive backed foam, see below for some examples. I tried to get foam that could handle at least 220F.
- Wrap the AC hoses with some 1" foam so it seals tightly where the hoses go through the side pieces.

Some McMaster PNs that I used:
88895K103 .04" aluminum sheet
97648A440 press fit nuts
98005A440 low profile rivet nuts (these need a rivet nut tool)
97654A378 M6 button heads for the exposed surfaces. For the IC front seal, grind two of these down almost flat because you will need to put foam over top of them.
90166A143 M6 Flange head 10mm for the bolts holding the front IC-to-air-guide to the horizontal and side pieces (hard to get a allen head in there)
92525A139 Sheet metal screws for attaching to the air guide (what Mazda calls that rounded black plastic piece below the reinforcement bar)
86115K71 High temp poly foam (buying sheets seemed to be the cheapest way to get strips). The poly foam is A LOT softer than the EPDM (look up the PSI to compress). If I were to do it over, I might use this stuff everywhere.
1566N138 Ultra-Weather-Resistant EPDM Foam 1/4" by 2". I used this across the top cap of the radiator to insulate that from the IC a little.
I had a lot of other high temp foam already in the garage that I used extensively so you will need more than just this stuff. Don't have part numbers for those.

Anyway, this isn't a full how-to and if I did it again I'd do a few things differently (e.g. the wings on the rear IC seal should be longer so the bolts aren't so close to the radiator) but this should get someone interested 90% of the way there.

And please ignore the kludgy IC piping from the twins. I'm waiting for a single turbo to show up.

 

I don't necessarily have a Greddy V mount but a custom v mount. I'm having an issue with water temps heating up when using the AC. I see that most have the AC condenser right up against the radiator. Is anyone seeing the issue with temps rising when using the AC?
I know I have to address ducting around the openings but wondering if I should separate or provide a gap in between the rad and condenser.

 

I haven't noticed this issue with water temps rising when the condenser is mounted against the radiator using the JP3 mounts.

 

On our shop car/test bed, we have not experienced any notable heatsoak from the condenser being mounted directly to the radiator. Have you checked out your radiator fans to see if they are in 100% operating order?

 

Yes are definitely working. I'm using twin spal fans on a pull configuration.

 

AFAIK, majority of our customers who run the AC setup in the Greddy vmount config are using OEM fans. The SPAL fans you are running might not have the same CFM draw through the radiator and condenser combined?

 

Hmmm. Good point. I'll have to check the cfm rating.