Gonna do the vacuum line replacement
Gonna do the vacuum line replacement
I've read all the how-to's etc.... anything i should know or anything anyone can recomend? I bought the kit from rx7store.com
Do i need anything else?
Anything to watch out for?
Do i need anything else?
Anything to watch out for?
He means to label each line you take off I think, and you'll need to label each side of the hose to make sure it goes to the right place. I'm planning on doing this as a winter project myself.
I didn't replace one at a time. I took notes of each hose (dia, length) and took them all off. Then I put in all new ones.
My notes:
http://web.newsguy.com/geesaman/Write-up.PDF
If you try to remove/replace them one at a time you will constantly be working among a s**tload of hoses and IMO that greatly increases the risk of breaking parts. The advantage is that you're a little less likely of making a routing mistake (that's assuming you would have trouble relying on the diagram like I did).
Dave
My notes:
http://web.newsguy.com/geesaman/Write-up.PDF
If you try to remove/replace them one at a time you will constantly be working among a s**tload of hoses and IMO that greatly increases the risk of breaking parts. The advantage is that you're a little less likely of making a routing mistake (that's assuming you would have trouble relying on the diagram like I did).
Dave
Originally Posted by phishie
what do you mean make labels?
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Also, there's a thread somewhere on here discussing quality silicone hose.
Don't just buy the coolest color. My pretty red silicone is now starting to tear,
making the whole time consuming job a waist of time.
Don't just buy the coolest color. My pretty red silicone is now starting to tear,
making the whole time consuming job a waist of time.
Call a Mazda dealer and order Mazda's vaccuum diagram. It is a multi page diagram with several clear sheets that lay over one another showing each "layer" of hoses. By far the best diagram for this job. Probably around $30.
Ray at Malloy will probably know where to find it.
Ray at Malloy will probably know where to find it.
I didnt label either, but I studied the diagrams beforehand as if it were on the SAT's. I recommend giving yourself more time than you think you need. If you have a cool workspace then you can it slow to double check stuff and clean and refurbish the related parts while they're out
Originally Posted by phishie
i bought the kit from rx7store...so i hope its good quality
In addition to the hoses, I'd check/replace the following:
1. All the check valves (there are 4 plastic ones, one metal one connected to the purge control, and one large PCV connected to the oil filler neck) to make sure none are leaking
2. The TB and LIM gaskets (these may be paper if you have an older 93, but even the metal ones will likely be shot)
While you're at it, you may want to consider getting the FI professionally serviced (either RCEngineering or Marren), checking the fuel pulsation damper / fuel pressure regulator, and install a fuel pressure gauge/sensor.
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I didn't replace one at a time. I took notes of each hose (dia, length) and took them all off. Then I put in all new ones.
If you try to remove/replace them one at a time you will constantly be working among a s**tload of hoses and IMO that greatly increases the risk of breaking parts. The advantage is that you're a little less likely of making a routing mistake (that's assuming you would have trouble relying on the diagram like I did).
Dave
If you try to remove/replace them one at a time you will constantly be working among a s**tload of hoses and IMO that greatly increases the risk of breaking parts. The advantage is that you're a little less likely of making a routing mistake (that's assuming you would have trouble relying on the diagram like I did).
Dave
Dave
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 2
From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
I used Baker hose but you can get a full OEM replacement kit which includes chack valves from Mazdaformance. I only recomend using silicone for anything that does not need to be disconected when removing the manifolds at a later date. Also there are a few breather lines for oil and fuel that should be Viton or rubber (oil injectors, pulsation dampner, etc). For water hose replacement, XS Engineering says they carry a reinforced silicone (probably 1-ply) which would be best. Oh, replace the little water hose under uim but use oem cause silicone will kink.
I used the Baker silcone hose. It didn't come in fancy colors but it works well and was significantly cheaper to buy. While I was in there I replaced the FPD, pulled the injectors and had them cleaned and blueprinted. I also replaced the plugs and all check valves. All the solenoids were vacuum and electrically checked. I also polished the UIM and TB. All gaskets for the UIM, TB, and ACV were replaced too. Installed my torque brace and Crane Hi-6. I also did the aluminum pulley install since everything was already out. Finally put in polished intake piping with the PFS IC.
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