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Gonna do the vacuum line replacement

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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 02:21 AM
  #1  
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Gonna do the vacuum line replacement

I've read all the how-to's etc.... anything i should know or anything anyone can recomend? I bought the kit from rx7store.com

Do i need anything else?

Anything to watch out for?
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 03:20 AM
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just make good labels (you need about 60 pairs of them or so). just take off a line and replace it with one. go slowly and lable everything and you'll be fine
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 03:33 AM
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how long did it take u skunks?
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 03:49 AM
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what do you mean make labels?
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 08:00 AM
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He means to label each line you take off I think, and you'll need to label each side of the hose to make sure it goes to the right place. I'm planning on doing this as a winter project myself.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 10:18 AM
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I didn't replace one at a time. I took notes of each hose (dia, length) and took them all off. Then I put in all new ones.

My notes:
http://web.newsguy.com/geesaman/Write-up.PDF

If you try to remove/replace them one at a time you will constantly be working among a s**tload of hoses and IMO that greatly increases the risk of breaking parts. The advantage is that you're a little less likely of making a routing mistake (that's assuming you would have trouble relying on the diagram like I did).

Dave
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by phishie
what do you mean make labels?
Label both ends of the line as you take it off. So each nipple that the line used to be on will be tagged. What I did was take small labels and write #1, 2, 3, 4 etc. Then when I took a line off...I put #1 on both ends where I took it off. That way you know where the lines go when you go to put them back on. Taking an extra 30 minutes removing them will save you hours and headaches later.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 02:33 PM
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what about the turbo system simplification thats on robrobinette's site?

has any done that, anything you can say about it?
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 02:48 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/turbo-simplification-351937/
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 02:51 PM
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Didn't label a single hose... But took tons of digital pics for reference purposes. Took my notebook with me during reassembly.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 04:57 PM
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Also, there's a thread somewhere on here discussing quality silicone hose.
Don't just buy the coolest color. My pretty red silicone is now starting to tear,
making the whole time consuming job a waist of time.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 04:59 PM
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Call a Mazda dealer and order Mazda's vaccuum diagram. It is a multi page diagram with several clear sheets that lay over one another showing each "layer" of hoses. By far the best diagram for this job. Probably around $30.

Ray at Malloy will probably know where to find it.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 07:10 PM
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i bought the kit from rx7store...so i hope its good quality
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 07:55 PM
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I didnt label either, but I studied the diagrams beforehand as if it were on the SAT's. I recommend giving yourself more time than you think you need. If you have a cool workspace then you can it slow to double check stuff and clean and refurbish the related parts while they're out
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by phishie
i bought the kit from rx7store...so i hope its good quality
I think rx7store resells the Hose Techniques kit. So quality should be good, lots of folks on the forum are using that kit. I went with Baker Precision silicone hose because I used it on my first FD - it held up good and I didn't want to pay a premium for the kit that includes 2x the hose, a cutter inferior to my Sears hose cutter, and zip ties that I wouldn't end up using. If you're pretty good at estimating the size of the hoses, you can get away with buying only 25ft of 4mm and about 5ft of 6mm. That'd do all the vacuum hoses including running a line to your boost controller (but not the windshield wiper fluid lines). Using the Baker Precision hoses, I found no need for zip ties. They all fit VERY snug, I highly doubt that any would "blow off" by either boost or vacuum.

In addition to the hoses, I'd check/replace the following:

1. All the check valves (there are 4 plastic ones, one metal one connected to the purge control, and one large PCV connected to the oil filler neck) to make sure none are leaking
2. The TB and LIM gaskets (these may be paper if you have an older 93, but even the metal ones will likely be shot)

While you're at it, you may want to consider getting the FI professionally serviced (either RCEngineering or Marren), checking the fuel pulsation damper / fuel pressure regulator, and install a fuel pressure gauge/sensor.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I didn't replace one at a time. I took notes of each hose (dia, length) and took them all off. Then I put in all new ones.

If you try to remove/replace them one at a time you will constantly be working among a s**tload of hoses and IMO that greatly increases the risk of breaking parts. The advantage is that you're a little less likely of making a routing mistake (that's assuming you would have trouble relying on the diagram like I did).

Dave
I just noticed that last sentence is unclear. I had no problem reassembling everything at once by relying on the diagram, and don't feel it's difficult to do. I only said that because I know others who are not as comfortable with that approach.

Dave
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 09:00 PM
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I used Baker hose but you can get a full OEM replacement kit which includes chack valves from Mazdaformance. I only recomend using silicone for anything that does not need to be disconected when removing the manifolds at a later date. Also there are a few breather lines for oil and fuel that should be Viton or rubber (oil injectors, pulsation dampner, etc). For water hose replacement, XS Engineering says they carry a reinforced silicone (probably 1-ply) which would be best. Oh, replace the little water hose under uim but use oem cause silicone will kink.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 10:59 PM
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I used the Baker silcone hose. It didn't come in fancy colors but it works well and was significantly cheaper to buy. While I was in there I replaced the FPD, pulled the injectors and had them cleaned and blueprinted. I also replaced the plugs and all check valves. All the solenoids were vacuum and electrically checked. I also polished the UIM and TB. All gaskets for the UIM, TB, and ACV were replaced too. Installed my torque brace and Crane Hi-6. I also did the aluminum pulley install since everything was already out. Finally put in polished intake piping with the PFS IC.
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