Garfinkle Torque Brace Install
04-24-08, 04:23 PM
#1
Garfinkle Torque Brace Install
Rather than clutter up the Group By thread, I'm putting some pics here of my install.
The instructions say to remove the ABS system to gain access needed install the brace on the inside fender, behind the ABS system.
Then the right side fender liner must be removed, providing access to a hole in the fender to reach the back side of the brace.
There are 2 components that bolt to the inner fender. A steel plate with the attachment for the brace itself, this attaches behind the ABS.
There's also a steel backing plate that attaches on the other side of inner fender. This is where you must reach up behind the fender (this is why the fender liner is out) and reach inside the hole in the fender to attach the backing plate.
As the bumper was already off, I decided to skip removing the ABS system, and removed the fender instead.
After doing so I was glad I did. I don't think I could have reached in that hole in the inner fender otherwise.
You can see from the pics it is a pretty tight fit. It was scraping my hand up so much that I had to use a glove.
From the next pic you can see that the topmost hole was easily drilled from the engine bay. I just went to Home Depot and got an extra long 5/16 bit.
A Dremel tool was use to start the 3 lower holes, and these were then drilled from the other side of the fender, through the holes on the other side of the inner fender.
A block of wood was used as backing when drilling the holes to avoid drilling into the ABS system.
The black paint is dripping from where I painted the holes that were just drilled with Gloss Black Rustoleum paint.
The instructions say to remove the ABS system to gain access needed install the brace on the inside fender, behind the ABS system.
Then the right side fender liner must be removed, providing access to a hole in the fender to reach the back side of the brace.
There are 2 components that bolt to the inner fender. A steel plate with the attachment for the brace itself, this attaches behind the ABS.
There's also a steel backing plate that attaches on the other side of inner fender. This is where you must reach up behind the fender (this is why the fender liner is out) and reach inside the hole in the fender to attach the backing plate.
As the bumper was already off, I decided to skip removing the ABS system, and removed the fender instead.
After doing so I was glad I did. I don't think I could have reached in that hole in the inner fender otherwise.
You can see from the pics it is a pretty tight fit. It was scraping my hand up so much that I had to use a glove.
From the next pic you can see that the topmost hole was easily drilled from the engine bay. I just went to Home Depot and got an extra long 5/16 bit.
A Dremel tool was use to start the 3 lower holes, and these were then drilled from the other side of the fender, through the holes on the other side of the inner fender.
A block of wood was used as backing when drilling the holes to avoid drilling into the ABS system.
The black paint is dripping from where I painted the holes that were just drilled with Gloss Black Rustoleum paint.
Last edited by jkstill; 04-24-08 at 04:28 PM.
04-24-08, 04:26 PM
#2
Continued from previous post:
Next I put about 1/2 tube of RTV to fill in some spaces behind the inner brace.
This was done so that if I remove the mount in the engine bay, this one will stay in place. The instructions recommended epoxy, I found this easier.
Messy, I know, but it was hard to reach and will not be seen once the fender is back on.
Following 2 pics is the finished product.
The mounts were painted with gloss black Rustoleum, the brace was painted with Red Duplicolor Ceramic engine paint.
Next I put about 1/2 tube of RTV to fill in some spaces behind the inner brace.
This was done so that if I remove the mount in the engine bay, this one will stay in place. The instructions recommended epoxy, I found this easier.
Messy, I know, but it was hard to reach and will not be seen once the fender is back on.
Following 2 pics is the finished product.
The mounts were painted with gloss black Rustoleum, the brace was painted with Red Duplicolor Ceramic engine paint.
04-24-08, 04:31 PM
#3
Thanks for the pics and lil' write-up.
That does look like a tight fit, and I have pretty big hands, so I'll most likely be going your route of taking off the fender. Seems like a win-win situation....Easier on the hands, and no brake fluid to worry about.
I plan on installing mine as soon as I paint it...probably this weekend, so thanks again.
That does look like a tight fit, and I have pretty big hands, so I'll most likely be going your route of taking off the fender. Seems like a win-win situation....Easier on the hands, and no brake fluid to worry about.
I plan on installing mine as soon as I paint it...probably this weekend, so thanks again.
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04-27-08, 09:49 AM
#10
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IF It makes you door rattle ,no one else has complained , just send it back for a refund .Get an other one from elseware and rattle both doors . Send it back with all parts and get your money back, easy as that .
12-01-08, 01:03 PM
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I thought instead of creating a new thread since there have been many threads on Garfinkle's Brace, I would bump this one.
I have a question for the original poster and for any of those who have the brace installed.
I have not installed the brace yet, but upon inspection, looking in from the engine bay, it looks as if the surface on the fender wall where the plate sits is uneven. It is not perfectly flat. Has anyone else noticed this and done anything to remedy it? I will post up a picture shortly to better explain myself.
I have a question for the original poster and for any of those who have the brace installed.
I have not installed the brace yet, but upon inspection, looking in from the engine bay, it looks as if the surface on the fender wall where the plate sits is uneven. It is not perfectly flat. Has anyone else noticed this and done anything to remedy it? I will post up a picture shortly to better explain myself.
12-01-08, 01:14 PM
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Here you can see the area that rises higher than the rest. My question is, is this causing the plate to sit unevenly? Has anyone done anything to even this out? Thanks for any input.
12-01-08, 07:11 PM
#16
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^
Have a 93 also and same raised section.
When the brace is installed you should have it down to about a 1mm gap.
I did not have to bend my bar at all, what the car does need when installing it is a proper PPF alignment.
Before doing the alignment my motor's nose was slightly pointing to the sky, since nice and flat and bar fits great.
Have a 93 also and same raised section.
When the brace is installed you should have it down to about a 1mm gap.
I did not have to bend my bar at all, what the car does need when installing it is a proper PPF alignment.
Before doing the alignment my motor's nose was slightly pointing to the sky, since nice and flat and bar fits great.
12-01-08, 10:34 PM
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I installed mine with two stock bolt holes, I didn't drill anything, and I didn't remove anything, it took me about a half hour...all the stress is in compression...three years later, it's fine
12-02-08, 04:38 AM
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Brace install
I agree the install was tough. Just installed mine, and the pain of install was definitely worth it in the end.
I researched the ebay braces, and decided to go the Garfinkle route. My car shifts much easier, more fun to drive (less vibration and harshness through the shifter, I have a 409 whp single).
On my car (94 pep) there were 3 weld nuts on the back side of the fender, not 2. Perhaps there was a manufacturing running change for some reason. Anyway, I drilled out these nuts with the 5/16" bit, and used a drift to tap out the nuts.'I also had a right angle drill, so I didn't have to remove the abs (tight but possible with a short 5/16" bit or center drill).
I researched the ebay braces, and decided to go the Garfinkle route. My car shifts much easier, more fun to drive (less vibration and harshness through the shifter, I have a 409 whp single).
On my car (94 pep) there were 3 weld nuts on the back side of the fender, not 2. Perhaps there was a manufacturing running change for some reason. Anyway, I drilled out these nuts with the 5/16" bit, and used a drift to tap out the nuts.'I also had a right angle drill, so I didn't have to remove the abs (tight but possible with a short 5/16" bit or center drill).
12-02-08, 06:46 PM
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