Snook

iTrader: (12)

How much does the weatherstripping around the windshield cost? How hard is it to install?

What about the same for the rear trunk glass?

Where's the best place to source it.

If OEM is not available or crazy expensive has anyone had luck with aftermarket?

Thanks

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

It's less then 100 bucks I think from the dealership. I paid 10% above cost with free shipping from my local dealership because I constantly order oem parts from them. Check it out

Snook

iTrader: (12)

For just the windshield?

How easy is it to install? Will I be able to remove the old one easily?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Most likely you will want an experienced glass shop to install this. Shouldn't cost much in labor.

This is the kind of job that requires a lot of experience and special tools.

Dale

pd_day

iTrader: (6)

I just did my windshield, the molding cost $80 from the dealer.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

I had a professional remove my windshield and it cracked. Luckily he had ordered another in the case it did happen.

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

I think he means just the black rubber trim piece, not the part holding the windshield in. If so, easy job. I did my front windshield myself. Pretty easy job. Bought the windshield adhesive at a local auto parts shop.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Yes this trim and for trunk. Were not handled well during the repaint.

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Found my order for the front windshield:

www.autoonlinepartswholesale.com

Items Ordered:
Item: body hardware, cowl & windshield, windshield glass, reveal molding
Price: $64.13
Qty: 1

Total (before taxes or discounts): $64.13

-----------------------------
Items Total: $64.13
Shipping Method: Ground Shipping
Shipping: $10.00
_________
Order Total: $74.13

Unfortunately, the site no longer exists. Call Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda. He can hook you up.

The actual part #s you need are:

50-501A Front Moulding
50-611 Rear Molding. The rear also might need 50-619A (center connector) and 50-615A (center cover)

HalfSpec

iTrader: (14)

The front and rear molding replacement steps can be found in the workshop manual under section S then Moldings (starts on S-23 in the 94 workshop manual). Both moldings will be glued to the underlying urethane used to glue and seal the glass in. The front molding isn't exactly T channel, but it does almost wrap around the glass edge. It has to be cut out and the old urethane has to be cut out sufficiently to make room for new urethane and the new molding.
The rear hatch glass molding has a profile that DOES wrap around the edge of the glass. You have to use very specialized tools to cut out all of the old molding and the urethane from around the back lip of the glass to do it without removing the glass. Every glass guy I've ever talked to would rather remove the whole hatch glass than try and attempt it with the glass in place. It's a big job either way and removing the hatch glass is in itself a risky chore because they are VERY easy to break and $300-$400 to replace. I've seen even very experienced glass guys have hatch glass break to pieces in their hands using the utmost care.

Additionally, it is of paramount importance that if any paint/primer is scraped / cut away while cutting out the molding it be prepped and sealed before installing the new molding. This is unwelcome surprise I've seen many times with personal cars and previous glass replacements (removal of the glass reveals rust spots from where the previous installer didn't seal exposed metal). Anything around a windshield that gets bare metal exposure, even if its a tiny cut in the paint will rust. It'll rust out under your paint and it will continue to rust until your windshield support requires major repairs.

Beee careful

Lane

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Thanks guys I didn't expect such detailed replies.

The front is 65 and the rear is 100 from Ray.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Damn Lane, very informative post

HalfSpec

iTrader: (14)

I try to be thorough when I can

For anyone that's curious what a little exposed metal around the windshield bed from an improper windshield / molding install can do, here's one of the examples I referred to above:

From my FD. Driver's side A pillar:


Again


Resolved (right before epoxy primer)


Lane

renjiv2

iTrader: (4)

i have a rear one for 90 obo shipped

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...lding-1089355/

Edit* lack of attention to detail. I forgot we're in October now not September -_-

tys93r1fd

iTrader: (8)

jimellismazdaparts.com
Everything OEM in one place