Force13B

iTrader: (19)

I found a few write ups but none with pics so here it is



Disconnect your battery. Then the fuel pump access door is behind the Driver on a USDM spec FD. Lift up the carpet and you'll see it. If you have a Bose stereo system you'll probably have to remove it. There should be 4 screws holding the door down.


Lift up the fuel door and unclip the wiring harness


You can either unclip the ground or unscrew it i went with unscrewing it.


Set the door off to the side and unscrew the fuel line connectors


Clean off the area for obvious reasons


Take all the screws out of the fuel hatch


You'll need to push the 2 fuel lines out of the way. The line on the right hooks into a clip i found it easier to pull the line of the clip so you get more play in the line


Lift out SLOWLY as to not hook the float on anything


Remove the screw on the back of the rack, mine was extremely tight


The + and - wires are different sizes so you can't really screw that up but hey maybe you can. I left 1 wire on just to make sure i didn't


With the new fuel pump make sure and hook up the fuel bag thing
by pressing on the washer


Put the spacer and O-ring in the fuel neck

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

Put the fuel pump space and cover on the fuel pump




Tadaaa


Put it all back in the car and start her up. I let my car idle for quite a while to make sure there was no air in the fuel lines.

Please add in anything i might have forgotten.

MX722

iTrader: (1)

I like it!
Good write up

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Great write-up. Thanks for going to the trouble. Good point on cleaning the area around the hoses and hatch before removal.

My only comment would be to make sure you also get a new screen ("fuel bag thing"). I assume the FD is like a couple of other cars I've had this experience with, where the screen is purchased separately. Personaly I wouldn't install a new pump without a new screen...especially since they're usually less than $10.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

Excellent write up. Should go into the tech archives as a sticky.

FlyFD

This write-up was extremely helpful!
I used the procedure here to replace my fuel pump today and now my FD running again!
Nothing was unexpected, I really can't thank you enough for the time you spent to post this.

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

nice work. +2 for sticky status

spekdah

so , this is for replacing your stock FP with an aftermarket?

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

yes, couldnt you tell? stock one was **** yellow and the new one is silver?

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

No problem when i was going to change mine i searched for a write up but didn't find much so figured i'd make one.
You can replace the stock FP with another stock FP but I put in a Supra pump same size as the stock pump, this would also work for a walbro.

tt7hvn

iTrader: (5)

awesome writeup, pictures speak a thousand words

did you also rewire the fuel pump mod?

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

I did but later on when i had my haltech installed. Didn't think to take pics of that had to many other wires running around.

tt7hvn

iTrader: (5)

^ i know how that is

did you notice any difference?

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

yea i have wires going crazy because of my AI system, last thing i wanted was more wires running around, so i kept all the wires under the fuel pump cover (not in the tank)


i was also looking for pictures of the fuel pump rewire mod, i wanted pictures before i worked on it, i ended up getting some, some helped a little but when i got to do it all it wasnt tooo bad but i did wish there were better pics

here was my thread https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/requestin-pictures-fuel-pump-rewire-870523/

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

Since i went from a Pettit Ecu with stock twins to a Standalone with custom fuel map, all emisstions removed, 99 spec twins running non sequ yeah i notice a difference but not in the fuel pump rewire
I have a fuel kit and AI next to do on my list.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

i went with a cooling mist unit, i think if i could go again i would go with aquamist, they seem to make the unit alot smaller, so you can hide it lol.. i got the one with the gauge, its good to have i guess, tells me either boost/what % the pump is pushing/volt/ or flow rate if i had that thing for it.

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

Yeah i'm looking at going with an Alkycontrole meth kit. I'll do a write up when i install that that should be fun

Kenji

Bump from the dead.... But is there a writeup anywhere with functioning pictures?

Attempting fuel pump replacement somewhere next week, and really could use the help.

Thanks :-)

phrost

iTrader: (14)

these should somewhat help.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...upra+fuel+pump
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-everyone-should-rewire-their-fuel-pump-847009/

its a pretty straight forward install.

Kenji

Thanks for the links. It's becoming a littlebit clearer now.

From the looks of things I'll have to clip off the original plug that goes from the original fuel pump to the "metal cover", and solder it onto the wire loom I got with the new fuel pump?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Yeah, the fuel pump install is really easy. I THINK one if not both of the wires bolt to terminals at the top of the assembly. If so, you can crimp ring terminals on the new pump wiring and just bolt them in place. If not, cut the existing wires and use crimp on connectors, make sure they're good and sturdy. You don't need to wrap them in tape or anything - that's actually a bad idea as gas will eat the tape. Use blue barrel crimp connectors, crimp them tight with a proper crimp tool, and you'll be done.

The fuel pump's output uses an O-ring to seal up. Put a little gas or oil or something on the o-ring to lube them so they fit well and don't get caught up and tear.

Dale

Kenji

How many wires does the stock fuel pump have?
In this topic ( https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...upra+fuel+pump ) it appears it has 4 wires, but my new Walbro only has a wiring loom with 2 wires.

Ah well, might as well give it a try tomorrow, if it isn't raining.
With most stuff, I just dig into it, but when it comes to fuel systems, I'm a bit hesitant....

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the pump itself only has 2 wires, you will see once you pull the pump out, guessing about it is only confusing you. the original pump has a + and - stamp for battery polarity, the new pump should as well, if not the walbro is similar to most any wiring(red = positive or+, and black = negative or -).

the other 2 wires on the plug are for the low fuel level warning sensor and the fuel level gauge.

fd3rain

iTrader: (3)

this was just what I was looking for very good Thread but if some one could post need pics that would help allot .

JonnyQuestions

iTrader: (8)

It's very simple. Once you remove the hanger you'll see that everything is simple. Positive(+) and negative(-) are stamped on walbro fuel pumps. You can solder or use crimp on terminal style connectors for the wires (depending on pump) clamp a fuel jose from nipple output of pump to hardline on the hanger. Secure the pump with hose clamps, safety wire, or whatever that will be resistant to fuel.