I am ready to do my fuel pump rewire, and i want to see a picture of how the end results look in the trunk, how you did the wires and what not. i want to make sure i dont screw. i just work better with pictures than reading how to do it.

 

I did mine yesterday, its really a simple job. U will need about 15 feet of 10 guage power wire ( i used 8), a bosch relay, inline fuse. When i finished the job i used electrical tape to clean the mess of wires. My car is at a friends, i wont be able to get pics till tuesday but i will get some and post.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/my-re-wired-fuel-pump-fried-its-relay-855416/

here's how i did it...i think you've seen this thread already though...

 

Mannnn, i got all the items its just i want to see how it came out.. i really need to see a pic before i start not that part theorie the back where the fuel pump is... the real problem im having is how the you add the new ground to the existing one thats why im requesting pictures of how people did it.....and theorie arent you suppose to add the factory wireing to 86 then the new one to pump on 87?

 

no one?

 

that's how i have mine connected and it works for me. maybe i have a different relay?

 

Looking back at the referenced thread, you do have the relays labeled differently.
In the first you had the Lighter to 86 and 85 as ground, in the new one you have 86 as ground and 85 as lighter/switch. The other two are unchanged. (https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=17)

Question, couldn't the switch be put on the ground to the relay? I've never had luck with load bearing switches. Wouldn't the load be much less if the switch were for the ground?

Looking at the Electrical Schematic, IF I am reading it right, the Sunroof, windows, and front and rear wipers should get power in the ON position. Again, let me stress IF, but a simple turn of the key would prove me right or wrong.

 

hmmm perhaps you're right. it looks like i just mislabeled the newer diagram. here is the corrected diagram:

 

so no one has a picture of how the wires in the trunk look like? wanted to do it today since its my day off but i cant start until im sure

 

I think what you are asking is a photo of the added ground to the original harness, and location of that new ground on the car right? I don't have a photo, but I would think, that you could either remove the cover of the wire and tap it that way, or just cut it, strip the 3 ends, and put them in an inline connector, or a butt connector. Run the new wire, and find a good grounding location.

 

Stupid question: Why would you not trigger the relay from the original fuel pump circuit?

 

that is true but i would of liked to see the whole thing just as a ref, but mostly the ground.. i don't normally work with electrical so i dont know how to tap or what a butt connector/inline connector are. i prob have the stuff in my dads big ol' tool box, that's why i requested pictures so its easier for me..

 

something like this
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ion=1&y=9&x=16

or this
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ion=1&y=9&x=16

Now these 2 will NOT work, bc they are not the right gauge. You want either of these connectors, but for 10 gauge wire. If you do the first one, then just twist all three wires together, put them in the butt connector, and crimp. If you use the second kind, then split them up. Put one by itself, twist the other 2 together and crimp both sides.

I would use the second kind. They are bit easier to find in 10 gauge. I would run the wire coming from up front in one side by itself, then twist the new ground and the wire going to the pump together and crimp them in the other end. These connectors are heat shrink wrapped as well, so you get that extra protection. Although with it in the car, you shouldn't need it.

I have not done this mod. My car is down, and FP wiring is the least of my worries at the moment. However as long as you follow the diagram provided, and find yourself a nice clean (no paint/water/oil free) grounding location you should be fine. You could look under the plastics in the hatch area, I am sure there is an empty bolt hole in there somewhere that needs a purpose in life.

 

so here is a question, why not cut and leave the old ground while you get the ground going to the fp and ground that only?

not sure what the first thing was but the crimps i have i just didnt know you called them something else? i assumed they were called crimps lol ..

i think i understand man they dont give you any extra slack when it comes to the wires in the car.

 

On the relay, 86 and 85 are for the coil, you need positive and negative and it can be wired either way for it to work. It only changes the direction of the flow through the coil.

30 and 87 is the switched part, they can also be wired either way. All it does is connect 30 to 87 when the coil has current and break contact between them when the coil has no current just like a normal 2 way switch. 30 and 87a is another switched part but it's connected when there is no current at the coil and broken when the coil is activated. It's not needed in this case.



Cutting the ground is perfectly fine. My factory ground isn't used anymore with my dual pump setup. The white connector isn't used either, I have the wires going directly to the pumps. There's lots of ways to do it, basically just need a heavier ground and power getting to the pump, how you do it makes little difference as long as it's not going to short out or has bad connections etc. You could wire it similar to the red/white wire, cut the ground, use the old factory ground wire to power the relay 86 (or 85) and the new 10G wire connects directly to the short fuel pump wire on the white plastic connector that you just cut, or directly to the fuel pump if you choose that method.

 

dudemaaanownsanrx7 you wouldnt have a picture would you? or could anyone walk to their car and take a couple picture of it for me?

 

you can, i just chose to do it this way (off the cig lighter) because my stock relay went bad and i didn't feel like jumping it.

the diagram i provided is not the only way to do it - it's just the way i did it. there are many ways you can rewire the fuel pump.

i guess it didn't matter that i had them switched on my diagram. well, i guess it works either way then haha

 

bump!

 

http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fddualfuelpumps.htm

Have you seen this page? Yes he's setting up duals, but its the same idea.

 

Its raining out here otherwise i would take some pics.

 

kinda weird, not too sure if there is 2 black wires because which are grounds because there are 2 pumps?/ wish i can see it better

 

The pumps are wired together in the tank. Look at the final pic of it all buttoned up, and you will see where he put his relay ground, and the kind of wire he used.

 

i want to see how thos wires are connected to the stock ones, i know its so simple and easy but i want to be 100% certain before i fk with the fuel wires. i know im being a pain in the *** about it but i think it should also be posted for future people who need the info.

 

bump, Anyone? i wanna get this done before it gets dark.

 

here is a question, could i hook up the power source instead of the battery can i put it on my amp? since it would be a little close and give me less hassle to route the wire from the passenger bin.