A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]
09-12-10, 04:25 PM
#1
A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]
So last night I park my car on the street and today I try to start it and it won't turn over. I check the fuel pressure gauge, and it's sitting at zero. Great.
After checking the wiring between the battery & the fuel tank bulkhead in the trunk, I couldn't find a problem. So I decide to pull the bulkhead/assembly from the tank.
Well, awhile back I rewired my fuel pump with 10gauge wire and a new relay...however I did not re-wire the part inside the fuel tank - bad idea.
Check out the sweet 16 gauge wire connecting the fuel pump to the top of the bulkhead. Oh yeah, and check out the sweet melted connector.
Well I just walked to Lowes in the rain and got some rubber grommet pass-thru, a drill, a drill bit, wires, connectors, and crimps. Oh yes, working on the side of the street, in the rain is SOOOOO fun.
Let this be a lesson to everyone who has, or is considering, rewiring the fuel pump.
After checking the wiring between the battery & the fuel tank bulkhead in the trunk, I couldn't find a problem. So I decide to pull the bulkhead/assembly from the tank.
Well, awhile back I rewired my fuel pump with 10gauge wire and a new relay...however I did not re-wire the part inside the fuel tank - bad idea.
Check out the sweet 16 gauge wire connecting the fuel pump to the top of the bulkhead. Oh yeah, and check out the sweet melted connector.
Well I just walked to Lowes in the rain and got some rubber grommet pass-thru, a drill, a drill bit, wires, connectors, and crimps. Oh yes, working on the side of the street, in the rain is SOOOOO fun.
Let this be a lesson to everyone who has, or is considering, rewiring the fuel pump.
09-12-10, 06:39 PM
#5
"....overkill" is an understatement. #12 (or even #14) is all that's required (for a single supra pump). #10 would be overkill. Anyone replacing in tank wires should be sure the insulation is compatible with fuel; e.g., gasoline and/or alcohols, to avoid potential and future safety issues.
09-12-10, 06:56 PM
#8
"....overkill" is an understatement. #12 (or even #14) is all that's required (for a single supra pump). #10 would be overkill. Anyone replacing in tank wires should be sure the insulation is compatible with fuel; e.g., gasoline and/or alcohols, to avoid potential and future safety issues.
09-12-10, 07:01 PM
#9
Where's this bolt go?!!!?
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Be cautious.... A friend of mine did this, and the gromet was sealed up nicely.... after nearly causing a fire in his car, owing to gas near a relay, it turns out that fuel can actually travel up the *inside*of the cable (it leaches up the copper strands..... think of a kind of syphon effect) just keep an eye out is all I'm saying.
09-12-10, 07:04 PM
#10
the proper way to do a bulkhead connector is to use a stud/insulator method.
the stock S4 FCs use a passthrough bulkhead style connector and have none of these issues, i just have never tried to see if the dimensions are all the same to work in a FD fuel tank.
the stock S4 FCs use a passthrough bulkhead style connector and have none of these issues, i just have never tried to see if the dimensions are all the same to work in a FD fuel tank.
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scotty305 (04-16-22)
09-12-10, 09:04 PM
#12
Be cautious.... A friend of mine did this, and the gromet was sealed up nicely.... after nearly causing a fire in his car, owing to gas near a relay, it turns out that fuel can actually travel up the *inside*of the cable (it leaches up the copper strands..... think of a kind of syphon effect) just keep an eye out is all I'm saying.
That is correct. I was thinking the same when I rewired my pump.
09-13-10, 12:22 AM
#14
it's been in there for years now with zero problems. That's actually relatively expensive amp wire. It's hardly a pretty install, but the concern about fires and fuel eating up insulation is completely overblown. I don't even have a grommet (yeah I said it, NO GROMMET FOR YEARS), just a bit of RTV where the wire goes through the hole. I've also had zero fuel pressure problems or electrical problems with it and have run up to 21 pounds of boost.
09-13-10, 01:15 AM
#15
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it's been in there for years now with zero problems. That's actually relatively expensive amp wire. It's hardly a pretty install, but the concern about fires and fuel eating up insulation is completely overblown. I don't even have a grommet (yeah I said it, NO GROMMET FOR YEARS), just a bit of RTV where the wire goes through the hole. I've also had zero fuel pressure problems or electrical problems with it and have run up to 21 pounds of boost.
09-13-10, 10:41 AM
#16
apparently this stuff is "gasoline safe"
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/gasketseal.htm
SOOOOOO....
Any idea where to get a new filter sock?!
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/gasketseal.htm
SOOOOOO....
Any idea where to get a new filter sock?!
09-13-10, 11:37 AM
#18
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I believe tjhat advanced or auto zone sell replacement socks for the supra pump. You will have to look under the supra of course
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...51_10051_-1___
The Denso part is at the bottom of the list.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...51_10051_-1___
The Denso part is at the bottom of the list.
09-13-10, 12:20 PM
#19
I believe tjhat advanced or auto zone sell replacement socks for the supra pump. You will have to look under the supra of course
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...51_10051_-1___
The Denso part is at the bottom of the list.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...51_10051_-1___
The Denso part is at the bottom of the list.
Part No. 952-0029
$21.99
Came to about $30 shipped from Advanced. I saw they have them on eBay for $5 less (shipped) but I wasn't sure if it was authentic Denso or not.
Thanks!
09-13-10, 12:27 PM
#20
it's been in there for years now with zero problems. That's actually relatively expensive amp wire. It's hardly a pretty install, but the concern about fires and fuel eating up insulation is completely overblown. I don't even have a grommet (yeah I said it, NO GROMMET FOR YEARS), just a bit of RTV where the wire goes through the hole. I've also had zero fuel pressure problems or electrical problems with it and have run up to 21 pounds of boost.
09-13-10, 12:35 PM
#21
From what I've researched, most high-quality "automotive primary wire" is gasoline-safe. I ordered some 10-gauge to replace the temporary wiring I used to get my car home the other day - obviously it works for now, but I would rather have it done right vs. driving around with a ticking time bomb in my trunk.
09-13-10, 06:09 PM
#22
Not a place to mess around unless the proper materials and closures are used. Make sure wire is rated:
http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/t...388&sequence=1
http://www.panduit.com/groups/MPM-GA...ONT_034680.pdf
TEF and PTFE are also acceptable insulation for immersion in gasoline:
http://www.thermalwire.com/temp_appliance.htm
Grommets are not acceptable closures for a fuel tank; they would never pass tech at the track to say the least. There are quite a few bulkhead electrical connectors that are suitable. At the bare minimum use insulated post and stud with nylon, teflon, or polyethylene insulator / seals.
The addition of ethanol and octane boosters further complicates resistance to breakdown.
http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/t...388&sequence=1
http://www.panduit.com/groups/MPM-GA...ONT_034680.pdf
TEF and PTFE are also acceptable insulation for immersion in gasoline:
http://www.thermalwire.com/temp_appliance.htm
Grommets are not acceptable closures for a fuel tank; they would never pass tech at the track to say the least. There are quite a few bulkhead electrical connectors that are suitable. At the bare minimum use insulated post and stud with nylon, teflon, or polyethylene insulator / seals.
The addition of ethanol and octane boosters further complicates resistance to breakdown.
09-13-10, 07:01 PM
#23
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CC0Q8wIwAg#
"Phoenix Gold PF2W8R100 100' Spool 8-Gauge Power Wire - Ruby
Oxygen-free high conductivity copper - chemical and temperature resistant jacket"
another site listed it as 735 strands of 40 gauge wire. It's flexible and easy to route. I use the same style of wiring for my battery relocation. It's expensive wire, I just got a good deal on it because my friend had access to huge discounts at the time.
09-14-10, 10:35 AM
#24
Grommets are not acceptable closures for a fuel tank; they would never pass tech at the track to say the least. There are quite a few bulkhead electrical connectors that are suitable. At the bare minimum use insulated post and stud with nylon, teflon, or polyethylene insulator / seals..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1431/
