FSM revisions
#1
FSM revisions
Does anyone know where to get the revisions to the FSM--mainly the cooling fan updates...I have part of them from FD3S.net but I need more...I like to have every inch of the wiring mapped out and all revisions to the FSM...If someone has a them Please let me know.
Thanks
Marshall
Thanks
Marshall
#2
just an update...called Ray at Malloy and he isn't sure of how to get it either. He's willing to call some Mazda people but I told him to wait to see if I could get some answers from this forum. Maybe if there is a 94 service highlights it might be there???...I looked in the 95 and 93 service highlights and no luck...How did FD3s.net get the portion he has??? Someone knows!!
#7
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
I thought that was already in the FSM sticky thread, but it appears it's not.
I downloaded a copy of the page you're talking about, it's labeled Z-10 but I can't find it in any of the PDF's I have. I posted a copy (with highlighting) in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/2-trigger-cooling-fans-462760/
A different drawing, showing the same thing, can be found here:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/cooling-fans-not-working-539916/
-s-
I downloaded a copy of the page you're talking about, it's labeled Z-10 but I can't find it in any of the PDF's I have. I posted a copy (with highlighting) in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/2-trigger-cooling-fans-462760/
A different drawing, showing the same thing, can be found here:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/cooling-fans-not-working-539916/
-s-
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#8
yes thanks; I have these...I'm trying to find the updates/revisions to the manuals... Call me **** but I know they have to exist...Like I mentioned earlier, how did FD3s.net get their hands on the updated cooling fan diagram???? Just trying to get more info on our cars. If you notice in the diagram it references to other pages/diagrams which I'm looking for...I can figure these out on my own--with time. I know this stuff exists; just have to find it.
On a side note, I think that the fan update is not done right on my car. If I ground the L/G wire of relay 3,ignition on, it should start the fans after 2 mins. But it doesn't...If I check the voltage on the "check connector" I should read 0V--I get about 11.5ish. The timer circuit works as I have tested it. I think the wiring is different than what is shown. I don't have hack up wiring so I am pulling my hair out over this...I like my car to work like I want it to but it doesn't want to!! Anyway...If anyone thinks of anything please post!!
Thanks
Marshall
On a side note, I think that the fan update is not done right on my car. If I ground the L/G wire of relay 3,ignition on, it should start the fans after 2 mins. But it doesn't...If I check the voltage on the "check connector" I should read 0V--I get about 11.5ish. The timer circuit works as I have tested it. I think the wiring is different than what is shown. I don't have hack up wiring so I am pulling my hair out over this...I like my car to work like I want it to but it doesn't want to!! Anyway...If anyone thinks of anything please post!!
Thanks
Marshall
#9
Relay 2, 3 and 4 the B/Y wire has to have battery 12V constant power instead of ignition 12v power.
The above wiring diagrams shows that.
I have probably seen only one FD that was wired correctly after the update. Just goes to show how un-trained or dont give a dam the factory techs were.
In my area alone I would say at least 99% of the FD's have the update but it's not functioning.
The above wiring diagrams shows that.
I have probably seen only one FD that was wired correctly after the update. Just goes to show how un-trained or dont give a dam the factory techs were.
In my area alone I would say at least 99% of the FD's have the update but it's not functioning.
Last edited by crispeed; 10-19-06 at 12:56 AM.
#10
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
In my opinion, the ideal solution would be to:
a.) Drill a few small holes in the thermostat, so you've got more coolant flowing through the radiator at temps below 205F. The difference in temperature (cold coolant flowing into a hot motor) is what transfers heat out of the hot motor. Think of it: the best way to cool a glass of hot tea is to add an ice cube, not an equal amount of lukewarm water.
b.) Modify the fan-control circuit so that the low-speed relays are activated by a thermal switch (or the PFC), around 190-200F. The fans increase the efficiency of the radiator a LOT, so it's a good idea to turn them on at lower temps if you want your motor to maintain a reasonable temperature.
c.) Let the car cool to below 210F before shutting the engine down. If the engine's not running, the waterpump isn't circulating coolant. Without coolant flow, there isn't much heat being drawn out of the motor; you're just cooling the water inside the radiator, which does nothing for the temperatures inside the motor. The 'black box' from the cooling recall is pretty worthless if you ask me.
-s-
a.) Drill a few small holes in the thermostat, so you've got more coolant flowing through the radiator at temps below 205F. The difference in temperature (cold coolant flowing into a hot motor) is what transfers heat out of the hot motor. Think of it: the best way to cool a glass of hot tea is to add an ice cube, not an equal amount of lukewarm water.
b.) Modify the fan-control circuit so that the low-speed relays are activated by a thermal switch (or the PFC), around 190-200F. The fans increase the efficiency of the radiator a LOT, so it's a good idea to turn them on at lower temps if you want your motor to maintain a reasonable temperature.
c.) Let the car cool to below 210F before shutting the engine down. If the engine's not running, the waterpump isn't circulating coolant. Without coolant flow, there isn't much heat being drawn out of the motor; you're just cooling the water inside the radiator, which does nothing for the temperatures inside the motor. The 'black box' from the cooling recall is pretty worthless if you ask me.
-s-
#11
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
nashman69g, in response to your 'black box' issue, check that it's connected to the relays:
If the thermoswitch is closed (coolant temp higher than 226F), the B/Y wire on the 'black box' should read 0 Volts. If this line is grounded for at least 2 full minutes prior to shutdown, the W/L wire on the black box should read 0V , which should activate fan relays 2 & 4 (G/B wire on the relays will read 0V, and the fans will turn on regardless of ignition position).
Hope this helps,
-s-
If the thermoswitch is closed (coolant temp higher than 226F), the B/Y wire on the 'black box' should read 0 Volts. If this line is grounded for at least 2 full minutes prior to shutdown, the W/L wire on the black box should read 0V , which should activate fan relays 2 & 4 (G/B wire on the relays will read 0V, and the fans will turn on regardless of ignition position).
Hope this helps,
-s-
#12
Its connected to the relays as they activate when I ground the "Check connector". I just think the wiring is f'd up on my car(and hundreds of others)--damn Mazda Techs! Looks like I'm going to have wiring day--yeah!!
My car stays cool (85C) so no worries...Just want my stuff to work.
Thanks again...
Lets just stay focused on the overall reason for this thread--Revisions to the FSM...
My car stays cool (85C) so no worries...Just want my stuff to work.
Thanks again...
Lets just stay focused on the overall reason for this thread--Revisions to the FSM...
#15
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around here we've seen a lot of the fan recall kits fail, and they just get removed
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