After few more tries, she starts up!!! I think the internal seals need to be sit proper by keep cranking? I cranked for 3-4 times each time approx 10 seconds.
warm up for 5 mins after first start up, second trial start right up, I am happy with the result
Thank you for all your valuable inputs!

Now I have to tackle the clutch pedal issue, it is soft when I step on it and won’t come back, already replace with new clutch slave and master cylinder, bleed and made sure clutch fork sit properly.

 

That is awesome news! Congratulations on scoring yourself one of the cheapest rebuilds ever. An FD with a running motor on borrowed time is better than a non running FD any day.

The first start on any rebuild can often be finicky. Sometimes you have to crank for an uncomfortably long time for the first start. The parts are new and not properly sealed so building compression is tricky. Adding a capful of oil to each combustion chamber helps if needed. If you were generous with vaseline then the engine is also slinging around gobs of the stuff that might be blocking the spark from reaching the fuel.

 

The RX7 has a pull type clutch. Make sure the throwout bearing is properly locked into the pressure plate retaining ring. If it isn't then the pressure plate won't be able to pull the pedal back into resting position.

 

I'd be interested to hear what the overall price breakdown was and comparison to what it would of cost going to a shop. Also, now that you completed the rebuild, looking bad, would you have followed the same route as far as doing it yourself? Congrats on the build!

 

Parts cost about $2500 including upgrades and tranny 5th synchro, I will update u guys with my list later this week.
After I had everything hooked up and failed to start for the first several trials, I once regretted by not using a new engine, but then everything r within the spec so I kept trying until it fired up last night.
As far as the clutch pedal issue, anyone have any clues what may go wrong? should I just keep bleeding the slave? Pedal soft while pressing down and won’t come back up by itself.

 

Thanks! And Yes, exactly the way I wanted with low budget option.

 

if clutch pedal being applied, the throwout bearing that is snapped with the retaining ring should pull back the pressure plate right?

 

The throwout bearing is supposed to snap into the ring, and the ring is supposed to snap into the pressure plate. It doesn't look like the retaining ring is seated properly in the pressure plate.

The throwout bearing is connected to the pressure plate at all times via this retaining ring. When you step on the clutch pedal it pulls the throwout along with the fingers of the pressure plate away from the flywheel to release the clutch. When you release the pedal the pressure plate fingers pull the throwout bearing back in.

 

You can stick a pry bar or screwdriver (also a pry bar) in there and try to push the retaining ring into the pressure plate and see if it will lock in place.

I have had it happen where the internal spring of the retaining ring was knocked loose by the input shaft during install. When this happens the retaining ring won't lock into the flywheel and I've had to pull the transmission to fix it. Look around the floor and in the bell house for a thin retaining ring.

 

The spring at 2:58 is the one I am referring to. Watch the whole video to understand how the system works.

 

With the snap ring complete pushed to the pressure plate, I can remove the throwout bearing and that’s how I separated the tranny with engine.
With the snap ring pulled back to the throwout bearing, the throwout bearing grasp to the pressure plate with the snap ring, I believe that thin ring still intact with the snap ring.
The last pic of my previous reply shows the throwout bearing being stopped by the pressure plate, in order to pull out further, the slave Rod needs to poke at the tip end of the fork.

Throwout bearing Comparison to mine while locking.

Snap ring completely pressed against pressure plate to release throwout bearing.

 

Make sure the end of the slave cylinder is pushing against the arm going to the throwout bearing. The end of the slave can flop around and not make contact with that arm.

If you pull the starter you can get your hand up in there to make sure.

IF that's all lined up and you replaced the components you probably just have air in the system. It can be a chore to bleed clutch hydraulics and get all the air out.

Glad you got her to start! That's great news!

Dale

 

thanks dale, will try to bleed first, I just read that bleeding clutch is different than bleeding brakes, I’m pretty sure everything r line up, hope I don’t need to drop the tranny for something else

 

I’ve successfully bled my clutch with my Motive pressure bleeder.

 

ordered the motive 0100 from amazon last night, it is “out for delivery” now.
Will keep u guys posted over The Weeknd.

 

I ran the engine at idle every night since 2 days ago, each time about 20-25 mins, I decided to pull the compression reading tonight with operating temp.
The rear rotor has lower reading as I expected, rear housing has more scratches and rotor has chipped corner.
Is there anything else I should be aware of? beside not to rev over 4000 rpm and Oil change at the first 500 miles(if I am able to address the clutch paddle issue)?



Front trial 1

Front trail 2

Rear trial 1

Rear trial 2

 

Motive pressure bleeder works like a charm! Purged out a bubble, but I still needed to extend the master cylinder pusher rod by about half inch, she’s rolling again

 

here is list of parts I purchased and being put on for this rebuilt/upgrade
turblown engine studs $450
OMP $40 ebay
coolant o-ring set $0 gift
apex seal, super seal $0 gift
apex seal springs, racing $90
rotor bearing $35.00 x 2
stationary bearing $65.00 x 2
corner seal spring set $45
side seal spring $117
side seal $175
thermo pellet $8.25
oil ring spring set $47.50
rear main seal $14.25
pilot bearing $12
hylomar $17
black silicone $10
oil ring oring, large $104.72
oil ring oring, small $55.40
front main oil seal $17.94
transmission rear seal $29.99
oil pump o-ring $12.14
spec fly wheel friction disk and spec stage 3 clutch $366.00
new clutch master and slave $120.00
oil cooler fittings $50.00
engine mount driver side $295.00
oil cooler $100.00 ebay
transmission 5th sychro $35.00
transmission gear hub for 5th sychro $250.00

total parts cost 2662(approx $800 on seals)
couple hundreds spent on parts I didn't use, such as solid corner seals, non oem oil ring O-rings from atkins ...
spent another 500 on tools and misc stuff
$3200 plus hours of labor and research to have a running FD vs a brand new engine $4600 plus approx $1800 of upgrades/replacement.
Since it is my first time messing around with FD, I am more comfortable with the low budget option.