When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here's how one of my coolant seals came out of the package! It looks like the tear stops propagating at the overlap material, but still has me worried about putting it into service.
Needing advice-- should I replace these, or go ahead with them? Thanks!
I wouldn't put that in my engine but thats just my opinion. if its already torn its only a question of when your going to have to yank the engine again to fix it.
Just to let you know Landon,you are not the first one to get a Seal like that.
I actually remember seeing another Thread like this a couple years ago,had the same damn defect.
If you watch Aaron's video on how to assemble,he will lube the seal to make it a little more pliable to fit in the groove..I guess they are a little fragile.
Kind of ironic though seeing that they are the main stay to having a good engine or a bad one.
Last edited by misterstyx69; Jan 20, 2015 at 02:20 AM.
Good move. I'd be willing to pay for the seal and wait a month (none of that in your case) before wondering if I'd have to redo all the crap if the seal let go.
(Kinda related) Story time: Was helping a buddy couple weeks ago assembling his engine. No parts that would affect end play were changed, but he had too much of it. I was honest with him. I wasn't comfortable letting him continue 'till we figured it out. Spacer near the Torrington bearings and thrust plate had dropped. And he knew to be careful about it. Trust your gut feeling. As a side note, but unrelated to the previous, we like to take the oil pump out now by the 4 M6 bolts (10mm head) holding it on to the front iron. The key on the oil pump is just too much trouble when you put the chain sprocket on!
Just to let you know Landon,you are not the first one to get a Seal like that.
I actually remember seeing another Thread like this a couple years ago,had the same damn defect.
If you watch Aaron's video on how to assemble,he will lube the seal to make it a little more pliable to fit in the groove..I guess they are a little fragile.
Kind of ironic though seeing that they are the main stay to having a good engine or a bad one.
I figured it'd happened before, but I couldn't find anything relevant w/ my combinations of keyword searches. haha.
(Kinda related) Story time: Was helping a buddy couple weeks ago assembling his engine. No parts that would affect end play were changed, but he had too much of it. I was honest with him. I wasn't comfortable letting him continue 'till we figured it out. Spacer near the Torrington bearings and thrust plate had dropped. And he knew to be careful about it. Trust your gut feeling. As a side note, but unrelated to the previous, we like to take the oil pump out now by the 4 M6 bolts (10mm head) holding it on to the front iron. The key on the oil pump is just too much trouble when you put the chain sprocket on!
Thanks for the tips man!!! This isn't my first rodeo, just first time w/ faulty seals :P
I ALWAYS do the oil pumps that way too hahaha. Took one time pulling the 17mm nut & reinstalling the key to teach me that method for life, LOL.
I’m also in the process of rebuilding motor as well. Bought the car back in feb-2019, just got done replacing all the suspension bushing. Now the TT is leaking oil, going to pull the motor and rebuild/port/ single turbo.
Motor is already pulled, and separated! But idk if any parts is reusable! Can anyone point me to manual/guide of what is acceptable or not?
is there something going on in this area? the coolant seal "dike" commonly erodes in these engines due to poor coolant maintenance, its hard to tell on the pic but is there something goin on in this area? u will want to remove the old orange coolant seal and clean the tract very well and inspect the dike for damage/exxesive errorion