Well i took the engine apart... and the coolent seal is done for hehehe
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Well i took the engine apart... and the coolent seal is done for hehehe
well i decided to pop the engine apart cuz a half day at school....and this is what i found...
well i guess i just have to wait for new parts to come inn
peace..
dustin
im on dial up tohingt so ill try post more pics tommarow
well i guess i just have to wait for new parts to come inn
peace..
dustin
im on dial up tohingt so ill try post more pics tommarow
Last edited by felixwankel88; 03-16-05 at 02:55 PM.
#7
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by xtremeskier97
I think he already has the new seals on the way to him.
Most extreme elemination challenge voice*
lol
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#10
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
yo erik this is what im geting all oem mazda
4 inner coolant seals
4 outter coolant seals
all the tension bolt seals
4 dowel pin o-rings
front cover o-ring
rear staiong gear o-ring
4 injector bleed o-rings
MOP o-ring
CAS O-ring
front pulley bolt o-ring
oil pump pickup gasket
2 Oil pedestal stand o-rings
4 inner coolant seals
4 outter coolant seals
all the tension bolt seals
4 dowel pin o-rings
front cover o-ring
rear staiong gear o-ring
4 injector bleed o-rings
MOP o-ring
CAS O-ring
front pulley bolt o-ring
oil pump pickup gasket
2 Oil pedestal stand o-rings
#11
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So im guessing that the seal popped out of the groove and the apex seal chewed it up? what exactly happened there?
Was it the seals fault, or your fault felix?
Was it the seals fault, or your fault felix?
#12
TANSTAFL
iTrader: (13)
that sucks... i blew a side seal on my first engine after 100miles...
you should try coating the coolant seals and filling their channels with a moderate amount of hylomar... it keeps them in really well during assembly. don't use petroleum jelly.
also, give the aluminums a thin even coat of high temp black rtv but dont let it dry. do a search on it if you have any questions. this is how many do it and it worked well for me.
good luck man.
you should try coating the coolant seals and filling their channels with a moderate amount of hylomar... it keeps them in really well during assembly. don't use petroleum jelly.
also, give the aluminums a thin even coat of high temp black rtv but dont let it dry. do a search on it if you have any questions. this is how many do it and it worked well for me.
good luck man.
#13
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Originally Posted by felixwankel88
yo erik this is what im geting all oem mazda
4 inner coolant seals
4 outter coolant seals
all the tension bolt seals
4 dowel pin o-rings
front cover o-ring
rear staiong gear o-ring
4 injector bleed o-rings
MOP o-ring
CAS O-ring
front pulley bolt o-ring
oil pump pickup gasket
2 Oil pedestal stand o-rings
4 inner coolant seals
4 outter coolant seals
all the tension bolt seals
4 dowel pin o-rings
front cover o-ring
rear staiong gear o-ring
4 injector bleed o-rings
MOP o-ring
CAS O-ring
front pulley bolt o-ring
oil pump pickup gasket
2 Oil pedestal stand o-rings
#14
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looks to me dustin that you pinched the seal. it prob woulda lasted you a while longer then the first couple hours of running. oh well. good luck with oem. ill tell you how long mine lasts. motors still not in the engine.
edit: hylomar is the shiznit. keep away from the jelly.
edit: hylomar is the shiznit. keep away from the jelly.
#16
Carter 2.0
He used Hylomar. His earlier post was about how he felt that the o-rings were too small and how to stretch them. You never know about manufacturing problems, he could have gotten a bad lot. Not haveing experience enough to know that the seals should have been rejected.
#17
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by dDuB
How come you're replacing ALL of those o-rings instead of just the water seal ones? All your other ones should be perfectly fine still.
peace dustin
#18
Lives on the Forum
Looks exactly what one of my RA seals looked like after it popped out during stacking, lol...
After torquing everything down and rotating the engine (still out of the car), I saw bits of orange coming by with the apex seal at the exhaust port, so I knew right then that sucker had popped out. Broke the engine back down, put an OEM seal in its place, and she's been good to go ever since (about 20K on her now).
At least I can perform a comparison between the 3 RA and 1 OEM seals when I break her down again down the road
After torquing everything down and rotating the engine (still out of the car), I saw bits of orange coming by with the apex seal at the exhaust port, so I knew right then that sucker had popped out. Broke the engine back down, put an OEM seal in its place, and she's been good to go ever since (about 20K on her now).
At least I can perform a comparison between the 3 RA and 1 OEM seals when I break her down again down the road
#19
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Rx7MPGUY84
looks to me dustin that you pinched the seal. it prob woulda lasted you a while longer then the first couple hours of running. oh well. good luck with oem. ill tell you how long mine lasts. motors still not in the engine.
edit: hylomar is the shiznit. keep away from the jelly.
edit: hylomar is the shiznit. keep away from the jelly.
Hey on the original rebuild i used hylomar on all the ring like the atkins vid said.. and used jelly on all the other surfaces like the video stated... to be truth full i used a whole tube of hylomar... who knows...
peace
dustin
#20
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Mint87RX7
so what is the total on all the seals and o-rings?
well im geting a good deal on them, i would pefer not say how much but i will say itz under 150 ....
peace
dustin
#21
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
So im guessing that the seal popped out of the groove and the apex seal chewed it up? what exactly happened there?
Was it the seals fault, or your fault felix?
Was it the seals fault, or your fault felix?
peace
dustin
#22
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
Looks exactly what one of my RA seals looked like after it popped out during stacking, lol...
After torquing everything down and rotating the engine (still out of the car), I saw bits of orange coming by with the apex seal at the exhaust port, so I knew right then that sucker had popped out. Broke the engine back down, put an OEM seal in its place, and she's been good to go ever since (about 20K on her now).
At least I can perform a comparison between the 3 RA and 1 OEM seals when I break her down again down the road
After torquing everything down and rotating the engine (still out of the car), I saw bits of orange coming by with the apex seal at the exhaust port, so I knew right then that sucker had popped out. Broke the engine back down, put an OEM seal in its place, and she's been good to go ever since (about 20K on her now).
At least I can perform a comparison between the 3 RA and 1 OEM seals when I break her down again down the road
Thanks for the info... make me know im not alone with having problems with thees seals.. i may be sending u a pm tonight asking some questions on how your engine is running with the ra parts in it...
peace
Dustin
#25
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Looks like the RA seals are not specifically made for the 13B I guess. I mean those guys specialize in airplane engines, right? Not sure why you chose them in the first place felix, I mean I would have gone straight to mazdatrix for the rebuild kit personally, a place that looks at the motors in our cars, not airplanes. I spose it was a good price?
150$ is awesome tho, not a huge setback considering the labor is free Things are looking up felix, remember take pics again of the repair and post them just in case someone has a suggestion to throw, it may be worth the patience
lates.
150$ is awesome tho, not a huge setback considering the labor is free Things are looking up felix, remember take pics again of the repair and post them just in case someone has a suggestion to throw, it may be worth the patience
lates.