well i decided to pop the engine apart cuz a half day at school....and this is what i found...








well i guess i just have to wait for new parts to come inn


peace..

dustin

im on dial up tohingt so ill try post more pics tommarow

 

Sucks, it rolled just enough to do some damage.

 

try looking for mcmaster seals. RETed has some info about them somewhere. he likes them alot more than the oem seals.

 

Hmmmm....looks like that seal got pinched.

Good luck with the re-rebuild

 

oems are ordered

 

I think he already has the new seals on the way to him.

 

*Most extreme elemination challenge voice* rite you are ken */
Most extreme elemination challenge voice*


lol

 

LoL

 

mmm... tasty.

Did you order all new seals? (or are you going to re-use some?)

 

yo erik this is what im geting all oem mazda


4 inner coolant seals
4 outter coolant seals
all the tension bolt seals
4 dowel pin o-rings
front cover o-ring
rear staiong gear o-ring
4 injector bleed o-rings
MOP o-ring
CAS O-ring
front pulley bolt o-ring
oil pump pickup gasket
2 Oil pedestal stand o-rings

 

So im guessing that the seal popped out of the groove and the apex seal chewed it up? what exactly happened there?
Was it the seals fault, or your fault felix?

 

that sucks... i blew a side seal on my first engine after 100miles...

you should try coating the coolant seals and filling their channels with a moderate amount of hylomar... it keeps them in really well during assembly. don't use petroleum jelly.

also, give the aluminums a thin even coat of high temp black rtv but dont let it dry. do a search on it if you have any questions. this is how many do it and it worked well for me.

good luck man.

 

How come you're replacing ALL of those o-rings instead of just the water seal ones? All your other ones should be perfectly fine still.

 

looks to me dustin that you pinched the seal. it prob woulda lasted you a while longer then the first couple hours of running. oh well. good luck with oem. ill tell you how long mine lasts. motors still not in the engine.

edit: hylomar is the shiznit. keep away from the jelly.

 

so what is the total on all the seals and o-rings?

 

He used Hylomar. His earlier post was about how he felt that the o-rings were too small and how to stretch them. You never know about manufacturing problems, he could have gotten a bad lot. Not haveing experience enough to know that the seals should have been rejected.

 

Well i have been talking with scathcart over pm's and he told me itz stupid not to just change them when your in there.. plus he is hooking me up on the parts i need...and he is geting me a whole re ring kit...


peace dustin

 

Looks exactly what one of my RA seals looked like after it popped out during stacking, lol...

After torquing everything down and rotating the engine (still out of the car), I saw bits of orange coming by with the apex seal at the exhaust port, so I knew right then that sucker had popped out. Broke the engine back down, put an OEM seal in its place, and she's been good to go ever since (about 20K on her now).

At least I can perform a comparison between the 3 RA and 1 OEM seals when I break her down again down the road

 

Hey on the original rebuild i used hylomar on all the ring like the atkins vid said.. and used jelly on all the other surfaces like the video stated... to be truth full i used a whole tube of hylomar... who knows...


peace


dustin

 

well im geting a good deal on them, i would pefer not say how much but i will say itz under 150 ....


peace


dustin

 

Well it could have been me.. it also could have been a batch of bad seals.. who knows but being my first build u gotta live and learn... and what did i learn... ummmmmmmm never ra coolent seals again.... but she will be running soon enough.....


peace


dustin

 

Thanks for the info... make me know im not alone with having problems with thees seals.. i may be sending u a pm tonight asking some questions on how your engine is running with the ra parts in it...


peace


Dustin

 

OEM's are also capable of sneaking out, so it's not 'just' an RA thing.

 

but there alot easier to work with rite???

 

Looks like the RA seals are not specifically made for the 13B I guess. I mean those guys specialize in airplane engines, right? Not sure why you chose them in the first place felix, I mean I would have gone straight to mazdatrix for the rebuild kit personally, a place that looks at the motors in our cars, not airplanes. I spose it was a good price?


150$ is awesome tho, not a huge setback considering the labor is free Things are looking up felix, remember take pics again of the repair and post them just in case someone has a suggestion to throw, it may be worth the patience

lates.