3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Finally getting my FD

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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 12:41 AM
  #76  
scotty305's Avatar
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From: Bend, OR
I told you to search for that $1000 / Reliability Mods thread, well here it is. Go perform all the maintenance iems on this list, then get back to us.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/i-have-%241-000-spend-339981/

Maintenance first:
00. Oil & Filter, $10-20. Get used to changing the oil in these cars, it's a good idea to do it every 2K miles or so due to blowby from the rotary/turbo configuration.

01. Fuel filter, $20-50. Should be done every 15-20K miles. If this clogs or prevents flow, your car will detonate, and the price of a motor rebuild is $5000 or so.

02. Spark plugs, $15-80 depending on brand/type. Probably a good idea to spring for new wires while you're at it, $50-75.

03. New water pump & accessory belts: $30-50. You might not need these, if the old ones are still in good condition. Mine were really worn and cracked. If these fail, your water pump fails and it's rebuild time.

Then continue on to mods:
1. Water temp gauge , $50-150 USD depending on brand. Notice how water temps vary depending on speed and engine load. The car is considered cold until 180 F, try to stay out of boost until the car warms up. Water temps of 200-220 are thought to be safe, much higher than that and you're getting into dangerous territory.

2. Coolant flush & refill, $15, be sure to use ethylene-glycol coolant (green stuff), a 70/30 mix should be appropriate for Califonia weather. More water will help transfer heat, and more coolant will help prevent boilover. Adjust the mixture based on the water temperatures you're seeing. Bleed out all the excess air properly. Note the difference in water temps.

3. Boost gauge, again $60-150+ depending on brand. Get a baseline measurement, to compare stock vs. future mods. Boost pattern in 3rd gear should be 10psi by 3500RPM, drop to 8psi around 4500RPM when the second turbo kicks in, then back up to 10psi quickly, and slightly tapering down near redline.

4. Downpipe , $150-300 depending on brand, budget about $100 extra for all the gaskets, new studs & nuts you'll need, the DP-to-turbo-manifold gasket is pretty pricey. It's probably a good idea to spend another $100 and get it thermally coated (jet-hot, etc...), or buy some fiberglass wrap for $50. Be sure to note the difference in air temperatures. The car might take a little longer to warm up after installing a downpipe, but it's worth it because it removes a lot of heat from the engine bay. Be sure to keep an eye on your boost levels. Be warned also, the super-cheapo downpipes will be really really tough to install, with cutting/grinding sometimes required to make them fit correctly.

5. Air Seperation Tank (AST), $150-300 depending on brand. The factory one is plastic and can crack from heat and pressure, leaking coolant and leading to catastrophic overheating / engine failure. An aluminum replacement can be bought from most rotary tuners.

TOTAL: $645-1470 depending on brand & whether you want to have your downpipe ceramic-coated. Don't worry about buying intake or exhausts, the car's plenty fast stock, and you'll need all the money you save towards future maintenance.

Next would be an Apex'i Power-FC, programmable engine management. $1300-2000 depending on the accessories or pre-tuning you want.

Good Luck,
-scott-
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