i have $1,000 to spend..
08-19-04, 04:47 PM
#1
Trading S2K for FD maybe.
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i have $1,000 to spend..
hi, im nwe to this forum, and i just got my 3rd Gen. RX7. it has 67k miles on it, and i have about $1,000 asved up for parts and whatnot. the only thing is, i dont know what to get? i want to get parts that are performance parts that are also for reliablity. i was thinking about buying an Apex'i GT spec exhaust, a blow off valve, and like a midpipe or downpipe or sumthin. i know you guys have lots of experience and i want to know your opinions please. 
08-19-04, 04:52 PM
#4
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Downpipe
Aluminum AST
Radiator
Exhaust
Boost Gauge + Water Temp.
^Good mods to start off on.
Check out the for sale section to get some good deals on some of the items you want.
Aluminum AST
Radiator
Exhaust
Boost Gauge + Water Temp.
^Good mods to start off on.
Check out the for sale section to get some good deals on some of the items you want.
08-19-04, 05:14 PM
#6
Downpipe, AST, Gauges, and of course......... Cheap Bastard Intake Mod 
(read link below)
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=121491
(read link below)https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=121491
08-19-04, 05:26 PM
#7
Hooray For Boobies!!!
Originally Posted by x605p747R1
You can send it to my paypal account. That's for stealing my Avatar.
But really look into doing some reliability mods.
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08-19-04, 05:32 PM
#9
Trading S2K for FD maybe.
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well.. could i get some advice.. how much money should i save up before modding this FD? and what parts should i buy? im seriously in the blue right now, ill take all of your suggestions and map them out to what is in my priorities. btw, thanks everyone for your contribution to my effort. =]
08-19-04, 05:34 PM
#10
Trading S2K for FD maybe.
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after reliablity mods and etc. i was thinking about switching to a single turbo. I was thinking about getting a Greddy T78, do any of you guys have it installed on your cars? if so, how much mileage do you get/fuel consumption? and around what rpm does it begin to spool? any information will be greatly appreciated.
08-19-04, 05:46 PM
#12
LOL, Better keep saving. My single turbo conversion went well into 6k for all the stuff to make it happen, and my car was heavily modified even before doing that.
I would get started with a down pipe, cat back, one of the K&N with pipe intake kits you see on Ebay, A boost gauge and then start saving for an intercooler and a Power FC.
Dont bother with the gay *** alluminum AST's I removed that **** years ago and never had an issue and I saved the $125. Dont buy a mid pipe until you have upgraded your ECU and fuel delivery system.
Thats my advice anyway. Good luck and enjoy.
I would get started with a down pipe, cat back, one of the K&N with pipe intake kits you see on Ebay, A boost gauge and then start saving for an intercooler and a Power FC.
Dont bother with the gay *** alluminum AST's I removed that **** years ago and never had an issue and I saved the $125. Dont buy a mid pipe until you have upgraded your ECU and fuel delivery system.
Thats my advice anyway. Good luck and enjoy.
08-19-04, 05:46 PM
#13
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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* Adam C's air box mod is a good bang for the cheap buck
* Heat Coated down Pipe instead of exhaust
* Water temp & boost gauges (my Defi is on sale on ebay)
Your car has a blow off valve allready - don't waste your money
* Intercooler (my Greddy is for sale on ebay)
Can't do mid-pipe on a stock car
* SS Brake lines and change fluid
* Change trans & diff fluid with red line
* Replace shocks/dampers
* Replace radiator with aluminum version
* Replace coolant & heater hoses (2 to turbo, 1 under UIM, 1 fr block 2 Thtottle body, 2 rad)
Talk Atihun in to making you a carbon fiber replica of Racing Beat's cold air intake
* Heat Coated down Pipe instead of exhaust
* Water temp & boost gauges (my Defi is on sale on ebay)
Your car has a blow off valve allready - don't waste your money
* Intercooler (my Greddy is for sale on ebay)
Can't do mid-pipe on a stock car
* SS Brake lines and change fluid
* Change trans & diff fluid with red line
* Replace shocks/dampers
* Replace radiator with aluminum version
* Replace coolant & heater hoses (2 to turbo, 1 under UIM, 1 fr block 2 Thtottle body, 2 rad)
Talk Atihun in to making you a carbon fiber replica of Racing Beat's cold air intake
Last edited by GoRacer; 08-19-04 at 05:52 PM.
08-19-04, 05:47 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by washabi
after reliablity mods and etc. i was thinking about switching to a single turbo. I was thinking about getting a Greddy T78, do any of you guys have it installed on your cars? if so, how much mileage do you get/fuel consumption? and around what rpm does it begin to spool? any information will be greatly appreciated.
catback - apexi dual n1
midpipe- bonez
ecu - power fc
intake - custom
radiator - koyo
fmic - greddy 2 row
engine - streetported
boost controller - turbo xs
changed ecu - microtech
injectors - 1600s
fuel pump - supra
fuel rail - custom
fpr - aeromotive
single turbo - t04s
manifod - custom
downpipe - custom
wastegate - tial
bov - tial
looking at that list i'd say theres around 10 grand in mods. it takes alot to support a single setup.
08-19-04, 05:50 PM
#15
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My first $1000 went something like this:
Boost Gauge - $50
Factory Shop Manual - $50 (bought on eBay before I even had the car
)
Downpipe - $150 (Bonez)
Boost Controller - $125 (Hallman Evo RX)
Used Greddy catback - $225
Cheap Bastard intake - $75
Silicon Hose Job + 5 check valves - $150 (I used the Hose Techniques kit)
Fuel Line recall kit + injector cleaning = $200
My car had 96k miles on it when I bought it in April. The engine in it is a Mazda reman that was installed in 2002. My injectors were very dirty...evidenced by the 12 mpg that I was getting. In mixed driving, I'm getting 19-20 mpg now.
A lot of people don't mess with the vacuum hoses until they have a problem, but even if the hoses are ok, one or more check valves are most likely shot. All 5 of mine were bad.
Sonny
Boost Gauge - $50
Factory Shop Manual - $50 (bought on eBay before I even had the car
)Downpipe - $150 (Bonez)
Boost Controller - $125 (Hallman Evo RX)
Used Greddy catback - $225
Cheap Bastard intake - $75
Silicon Hose Job + 5 check valves - $150 (I used the Hose Techniques kit)
Fuel Line recall kit + injector cleaning = $200
My car had 96k miles on it when I bought it in April. The engine in it is a Mazda reman that was installed in 2002. My injectors were very dirty...evidenced by the 12 mpg that I was getting. In mixed driving, I'm getting 19-20 mpg now.
A lot of people don't mess with the vacuum hoses until they have a problem, but even if the hoses are ok, one or more check valves are most likely shot. All 5 of mine were bad.
Sonny
08-19-04, 05:51 PM
#16
I'm a CF and poop smith
Downpipe
MP
Aluminum AST
Radiator (with ducts/sheilding you dont really need this unless its leaking or unless your doing major racing. If you are racing, your gonna need a hell of a lot more then a 1000 dollars saved up! personnaly i run at 180-185 degrees with the stock radiator.)
Exhaust
Boost Gauge + Water Temp.
are all must have/should haves which should already been done to a fd which is over 10 years old and over 67k miles
if you dont have those, you should look in to buying and replacing those items asap. if you already do have those items, you can relax and just enjoy your fd. id save up just incase something goes wrong (eventually something will and it comes with the territory of owning a 10+ year old car). its also very true that 1000 bucks does not go very far with this car, for some here, their tires cost damn near if not over 1000dollars alone! if you want a better bov sound, just unhook it from the box and plug the hole in the box. unless your boosting over 15psi or unless the diaphram is ripped inside your bov, the stockers are just fine.
P.S. any exhuast on a fd will be fairly loud (well any straight thru/out type). the bigger the pipe, the louder the sound... forget about sneaking out of your neighborhood at night.
MP
Aluminum AST
Radiator (with ducts/sheilding you dont really need this unless its leaking or unless your doing major racing. If you are racing, your gonna need a hell of a lot more then a 1000 dollars saved up! personnaly i run at 180-185 degrees with the stock radiator.)
Exhaust
Boost Gauge + Water Temp.
are all must have/should haves which should already been done to a fd which is over 10 years old and over 67k miles
if you dont have those, you should look in to buying and replacing those items asap. if you already do have those items, you can relax and just enjoy your fd. id save up just incase something goes wrong (eventually something will and it comes with the territory of owning a 10+ year old car). its also very true that 1000 bucks does not go very far with this car, for some here, their tires cost damn near if not over 1000dollars alone! if you want a better bov sound, just unhook it from the box and plug the hole in the box. unless your boosting over 15psi or unless the diaphram is ripped inside your bov, the stockers are just fine.
P.S. any exhuast on a fd will be fairly loud (well any straight thru/out type). the bigger the pipe, the louder the sound... forget about sneaking out of your neighborhood at night.
08-19-04, 05:51 PM
#17
Trading S2K for FD maybe.
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Originally Posted by GoRacer
Adam C's air box mod is a good bang for the cheap buck
Heat Coated down Pipe instead of exhaust
Water temp & boost gauges (my Defi is on sale on ebay)
Your car has a blow off valve allready - don't waste your money
Intercooler (my Greddy is for sale on ebay)
Can't do mid-pipe on a stock car
SS Brake lines and change fluid
Change tans & diff fluid with red line
Replace shocks/dampers
Replace radiator with aluminum version
Replace coolant & heater hoses (2 to turbo, 1 under UIM, 1 fr block 2 Thtottle body, 2 rad)
Talk Atihun into making a carbon fiber replica of Racing Beat's cold air intake
Heat Coated down Pipe instead of exhaust
Water temp & boost gauges (my Defi is on sale on ebay)
Your car has a blow off valve allready - don't waste your money
Intercooler (my Greddy is for sale on ebay)
Can't do mid-pipe on a stock car
SS Brake lines and change fluid
Change tans & diff fluid with red line
Replace shocks/dampers
Replace radiator with aluminum version
Replace coolant & heater hoses (2 to turbo, 1 under UIM, 1 fr block 2 Thtottle body, 2 rad)
Talk Atihun into making a carbon fiber replica of Racing Beat's cold air intake
08-19-04, 05:58 PM
#19
I'm a CF and poop smith
[QUOTE=GoRacer]
Can't do mid-pipe on a stock car
[QUOTE]
that is not really correct. you can but you need a boost controller (manual or eletronic). im running mp (3.75inchs)+ dp (hks type)+ catback (straight thru greddy type, 3.5- 3.75 inchs)+intercooler (not sure what type but its about 4X as big as the stocker)+intake+all metal piping on a stock ecu. you just need a some kind of boost controller (i suggest ball and spring type, cost about 15 bucks to make at homedepot/lowes and has a larger diameter then most bleeder valves which means its more adjustable) to lower your boost down to a nice 10psi. I'm running a 10-8-10 boost pattern on the aboved mods to redline in 3rd gear.
Can't do mid-pipe on a stock car
[QUOTE]
that is not really correct. you can but you need a boost controller (manual or eletronic). im running mp (3.75inchs)+ dp (hks type)+ catback (straight thru greddy type, 3.5- 3.75 inchs)+intercooler (not sure what type but its about 4X as big as the stocker)+intake+all metal piping on a stock ecu. you just need a some kind of boost controller (i suggest ball and spring type, cost about 15 bucks to make at homedepot/lowes and has a larger diameter then most bleeder valves which means its more adjustable) to lower your boost down to a nice 10psi. I'm running a 10-8-10 boost pattern on the aboved mods to redline in 3rd gear.
08-19-04, 06:07 PM
#20
Maintenance first:
00. Oil & Filter, $10-20. Get used to changing the oil in these cars, it's a good idea to do it every 2K miles or so due to blowby from the rotary/turbo configuration.
01. Fuel filter, $20-50. Should be done every 15-20K miles. If this clogs or prevents flow, your car will detonate, and the price of a motor rebuild is $5000 or so.
02. Spark plugs, $15-80 depending on brand/type. Probably a good idea to spring for new wires while you're at it, $50-75.
03. New water pump & accessory belts: $30-50. You might not need these, if the old ones are still in good condition. Mine were really worn and cracked. If these fail, your water pump fails and it's rebuild time.
Then continue on to mods:
1. Water temp gauge , $50-150 USD depending on brand. Notice how water temps vary depending on speed and engine load. The car is considered cold until 180 F, try to stay out of boost until the car warms up. Water temps of 200-220 are thought to be safe, much higher than that and you're getting into dangerous territory.
2. Coolant flush & refill, $15, be sure to use ethylene-glycol coolant (green stuff), a 70/30 mix should be appropriate for Califonia weather. More water will help transfer heat, and more coolant will help prevent boilover. Adjust the mixture based on the water temperatures you're seeing. Bleed out all the excess air properly. Note the difference in water temps.
3. Boost gauge, again $60-150+ depending on brand. Get a baseline measurement, to compare stock vs. future mods. Boost pattern in 3rd gear should be 10psi by 3500RPM, drop to 8psi around 4500RPM when the second turbo kicks in, then back up to 10psi quickly, and slightly tapering down near redline.
4. Downpipe , $150-300 depending on brand, budget about $100 extra for all the gaskets, new studs & nuts you'll need, the DP-to-turbo-manifold gasket is pretty pricey. It's probably a good idea to spend another $100 and get it thermally coated (jet-hot, etc...), or buy some fiberglass wrap for $50. Be sure to note the difference in air temperatures. The car might take a little longer to warm up after installing a downpipe, but it's worth it because it removes a lot of heat from the engine bay. Be sure to keep an eye on your boost levels. Be warned also, the super-cheapo downpipes will be really really tough to install, with cutting/grinding sometimes required to make them fit correctly.
5. Air Seperation Tank (AST), $150-300 depending on brand. The factory one is plastic and can crack from heat and pressure, leaking coolant and leading to catastrophic overheating / engine failure. An aluminum replacement can be bought from most rotary tuners.
TOTAL: $645-1470 depending on brand & whether you want to have your downpipe ceramic-coated. Don't worry about buying intake or exhausts, the car's plenty fast stock, and you'll need all the money you save towards future maintenance.
Next would be an Apex'i Power-FC, programmable engine management. $1300-2000 depending on the accessories or pre-tuning you want.
Good Luck,
-scott-
00. Oil & Filter, $10-20. Get used to changing the oil in these cars, it's a good idea to do it every 2K miles or so due to blowby from the rotary/turbo configuration.
01. Fuel filter, $20-50. Should be done every 15-20K miles. If this clogs or prevents flow, your car will detonate, and the price of a motor rebuild is $5000 or so.
02. Spark plugs, $15-80 depending on brand/type. Probably a good idea to spring for new wires while you're at it, $50-75.
03. New water pump & accessory belts: $30-50. You might not need these, if the old ones are still in good condition. Mine were really worn and cracked. If these fail, your water pump fails and it's rebuild time.
Then continue on to mods:
1. Water temp gauge , $50-150 USD depending on brand. Notice how water temps vary depending on speed and engine load. The car is considered cold until 180 F, try to stay out of boost until the car warms up. Water temps of 200-220 are thought to be safe, much higher than that and you're getting into dangerous territory.
2. Coolant flush & refill, $15, be sure to use ethylene-glycol coolant (green stuff), a 70/30 mix should be appropriate for Califonia weather. More water will help transfer heat, and more coolant will help prevent boilover. Adjust the mixture based on the water temperatures you're seeing. Bleed out all the excess air properly. Note the difference in water temps.
3. Boost gauge, again $60-150+ depending on brand. Get a baseline measurement, to compare stock vs. future mods. Boost pattern in 3rd gear should be 10psi by 3500RPM, drop to 8psi around 4500RPM when the second turbo kicks in, then back up to 10psi quickly, and slightly tapering down near redline.
4. Downpipe , $150-300 depending on brand, budget about $100 extra for all the gaskets, new studs & nuts you'll need, the DP-to-turbo-manifold gasket is pretty pricey. It's probably a good idea to spend another $100 and get it thermally coated (jet-hot, etc...), or buy some fiberglass wrap for $50. Be sure to note the difference in air temperatures. The car might take a little longer to warm up after installing a downpipe, but it's worth it because it removes a lot of heat from the engine bay. Be sure to keep an eye on your boost levels. Be warned also, the super-cheapo downpipes will be really really tough to install, with cutting/grinding sometimes required to make them fit correctly.
5. Air Seperation Tank (AST), $150-300 depending on brand. The factory one is plastic and can crack from heat and pressure, leaking coolant and leading to catastrophic overheating / engine failure. An aluminum replacement can be bought from most rotary tuners.
TOTAL: $645-1470 depending on brand & whether you want to have your downpipe ceramic-coated. Don't worry about buying intake or exhausts, the car's plenty fast stock, and you'll need all the money you save towards future maintenance.
Next would be an Apex'i Power-FC, programmable engine management. $1300-2000 depending on the accessories or pre-tuning you want.
Good Luck,
-scott-
Last edited by scotty305; 08-19-04 at 06:14 PM. Reason: added total in bold
08-19-04, 06:13 PM
#21
Originally Posted by washabi
hi, im nwe to this forum, and i just got my 3rd Gen. RX7. it has 67k miles on it, and i have about $1,000 asved up for parts and whatnot... i know you guys have lots of experience and i want to know your opinions please.
I think that last sentence (and the happy thumbs-up icon) is the main reason this thread didn't turn into a noob-bashing flamefest. This one should be good for the archives, it's definitely one of the most postive 'newbie advice' threads I've seen all year.
-s-
08-19-04, 06:13 PM
#22
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Originally Posted by washabi
thats a lot of stuff.. thats for 1k? = \ and how much are u selling your ic for? plz send link. thanks for everyones input, its giving me an idea of how to start my project.
Adams air box mod $ 75
SS Brake lines $100
Red Line fluids $ 25
Hoses $100
Koyo Radiator $350
Gauges $250 (my water temp for sale on EBay)
Down pipe $200 (M2 used for sale - CaptBill1)
Ceramic Heat coat $100
Greddy SMIC $500 (mine for sale on Ebay)
-------------------------------
$1,775
08-19-04, 06:18 PM
#23
Where has my $ gone?
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Originally Posted by scotty305
I think that last sentence (and the happy thumbs-up icon) is the main reason this thread didn't turn into a noob-bashing flamefest. This one should be good for the archives, it's definitely one of the most postive 'newbie advice' threads I've seen all year.
-s-
-s-
Yeah i think this could be the first newbie thread ive seen where the newcommer hasnt been flamed like hell.
08-19-04, 06:52 PM
#24
Hooray For Boobies!!!
Originally Posted by MakoRacing
Yeah i think this could be the first newbie thread ive seen where the newcommer hasnt been flamed like hell.
08-19-04, 09:05 PM
#25
Trading S2K for FD maybe.
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thanks for the input.. now that i think about it, i dont really want a huge horsepower machine for the moment. i live in san francisco, meaning.. a lot of busy streets, lots of hills, lots of cracked and rough roads, and occasional street racing. i want the output of my 7 to be around 310-325hp or so. if you have any suggestions on how to do this while maintaining good reliability, please leave a response or PM me. thanks.