my 94' has basic mods-- (d/p, hi-flow cat, apexi n1 exhaust, act 2600, boost a/f gauges). Next mod.... I was looking at a good Boost Controller. Power FC will be in the near future. What do you guys think??? Thanks

 

Why is a boost controller a dumb mod? If you're getting boost spikes or you have the potential to get one then get one! If you're getting it to raise the boost then don't do it . . . .

 

no not saying thats a dumb mod.. its just a dumb question to ask..

 

get a boost controller, but dont raise the boost, theres not enough fuel support stock to raise the boost much, i think 11-12 psi is max, but thats pushing it, if its at 11-12 and spikes, there goes ur motor... read up more, FAQ and search, its been discussed many times, good luck

 

thanks a lot for the replies

 

I would say injectors, and then a Aftermarket ECU. Microtech, Power FC,......Then a boost controller. But it all depends on what your goals are for the car.

 

with the mods u listed i'd get the power fc first. i've read alot of stories on here of guys running too lean with just boltons like u do and blowing motors. can never be too safe imho

 

NOT.

Assuming the car is fully maintained (clean fluids, filters, good suspension bushings, metal AST, etc), the PFC should be your next mod. It can serve decently as a boost controller and will allow you to run 11-12 psi and make a little more power with your mods.

And ditch the A/F gauge, it's absolutely worthless.

 

Injectors??? why?

If you are not getting spikes then you don't the need a boost controller. Like rynberg said your next mod should be a PFC, then you can turn up the boost.
Depending on what you are boosting, with the PFC you can see your injector duty cycle and then make a decision whether or not you need to purchase injectors in order to support your desired boost.


Though I may add, some folks here don't like the boost control feature on the PFC. But that's others to say why they don't like to use it (I don't have one and even after I get one I will use my profec B spec II since I trust it). Maybe rynberg can chime in on why.

I got one. It makes pretty colors at night...

 

whats the "NOT" for? you just reitterated what i already said, so would that make you agree with me?

 

What do you want the car to do that it isn't doing now?

 

I'd have to agree with rynberg.

 

The "NOT" was in the sense of runing lean with just bolt on ons. You didn't elaborate that the reason people run lean is because of higher than stock boost levels that the bolt-ons create (spikes, creep).

 

yea but its still a direct effect of using bolt-ons. thats just common sense imho

 

No it isn't. You can run all the bolt-ons just fine at 10 psi. That's fact. If you want to state that running high boost levels on the stock ecu is a bad idea and you can run lean, that's a completely different statement.

 

so your saying by adding an intake/full exhaust on a completely stock ecu controlled rx7, that the boost won't go up AT ALL and cause it to run lean AT ALL? his location is in nebraska, where it can get colder than cali where you are, causing fluctuation in afr's even more. i wouldn't be trusting the stock ecu at that point, which is why i recommended the power fc.

 

This is the new rule:

All the bolt-ons you want as long as you LIMIT the boost to 10 PSI no spikes, no creep. No matter what you run you always have limit boost to accomodate your fuel curve.


As far as your scenario is concerned:

Let's say he has a tuned PFC for 10 psi... he boosts the car and because it's 35 deg outside he overboosts to 12 psi. The end result is Kaboom! no different. He has to limit the boost.

The stock ECU is rich enough to sustain all of the boltons for 10 psi but one has to control it. Whether via a boost controller or porting the wategate depending on what is happening.

How do I know this? Check my sig

 

How are you set for the reliability mods? Metal AST, FC thermoswitch, maybe the 'Fan Mod', fuel filter, transmission and diff fluids etc. Not a whole lot of fun in those I know, but they're also relatively cheap and may save you down the road.

 

I seem to be hitting fuel-cut at 10psi still, and I've only got intake, dp, catback, and non-seq.

I'm going to have to keep it at 8 1/2-9psi to stop it. I don't feel like blowing the motor after only having the car a month.

Reliability mod #1 done: Pettit AST.
Next mod: thermoswitch/fan mod
Next mod: I'm thinking I'll go ahead and do PFC. The radiator is holding up fine for now, and with it being cheaper, I can get that soon after the PFC, rather than vise versa.

 

Get some sort of ECU.

M2 Stage 3 or other re-chipped ECU and turn up your boost to 12 PSI($400-450)

If you go for the PFC($1000). Don't forget to account for tuning($300+dyno or street). If you really want to have fun with the PFC and get the most out of it, you should also buy a Wideband O2($300-500) kit and a Datalogit($300 if you can find one). You'll also need a laptop, an old one will do.