So this past weekend I pulled apart my FD to replace the vacuum hoses and check all the solenoids cause I had no boost after 4500rpm. I found three bad solenoids, so I decided to do the simplification as per Rob Robinette's site. So I put everything back together, it starts right up, and works fine when you give it part throttle. But as soon as you give it anymore throttle, it sputters and pops and won't rev, and around 2-3000rpm it sounds like a party horn is going off. After it settles down, the idle drops fairly low, and only pulls 13 or 14 mmHg of vacuum. The CEL is on all the time

So I got to thinking maybe the ACV block plate I made was to thin, and there is air escaping from it. So I put the ACV back on with the block plate, hoping to help it seal better (I used black RTV on the intake manifold side of the ACV), but it does exactly the same things as it did before. I pulled some engine codes, and I got codes 20, 26, 30, 33, and 39.

So finally I have deduced that it is probably an issue with the plate itself, and I plan on just removing it, putting the ACV back on, and plugging all the holes on the ACV, in hopes to fix my problems.

Am I on the right track here? or is there anything else that could be causing this issue? Below is a video of the problem:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwBdX4oF7is

 

Sounds to me like you have a few problems.

20 & 26 are the OMP which will cause the car to go into limp mode

Use real block off plates http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_fd_bop_kit.htm

Also sounds like you may have a problem with your TPS connector and/or the map sensor line.

 

+1 - make sure you reconnected the Throttle position sensor and/or boost sensor.

 

Okay, so I reset the ECM in hopes that would do the trick, but it didn't. When warm, it idles between 600-700rpm according to the tach.

I'm pretty sure the oil control rings are toast on the engine because before I tore it all apart for the hose job, any deceleration after some high rpm revs would shoot lots of blue smoke out the back.

If I hold the pedal at full throttle for any more than 1.5 seconds the car dies. The MAP sensor, and the throttle position sensor were hooked up properly.

When I went to pull the intake off tonight, I decided to take a look at the plugs and wires. One of the leading plugs on the coil end (lower one), just sort of slid off; inside the prongs were all mangled, and there was a fair amount of white chalky stuff in there.

The plugs were all black, and the trailing spark plug wire on the number 2 (rear) just slid off the plug, and the end of the plug that connects to the plug wire had surface rust on it. The wire would not click onto the new plug.

That is where I stopped, figuring that the car needs new spark plug wires (I installed the new plugs tonight). Could that be where my problem is?

 

The smoke on decel is most likely tired turbos. The test for oil control rings is to hold the rpms around 4500 and see if it starts smoking.

The plug wires couls cause it not to run well but it will not stop it from accelerating like you have described.

Double check the hose going to the the manifold from the MAP sensor. Make sure you have not connected it to any of the studs that look like nipples, and that is is connected to the nipple next the the ISC and TPS

Did you remove the TPS at all? If you did it is spring load and must be reinstalled correctly.

 

You are in limp mode that is why it bucks/backfires past partial throttle. It is actually anytime the map senses the car switching from vacuum to possitive pressure(boost). You are definitely in limp mode and as Banzai stated it is caused by your OMP code. Post some detailed pics of your engine bay.

 

Any areas in particular?

 

Check the connection for the OMP to the emissions harness. Also check the OMP electrical wires to make sure they didn't get cut by rubbing on an accessory belt.

 

Okay, so I get home from work today and decide to check the OMP connector to see if it's connected, and it is. So then I glance near the pulleys and I find that one of the two groups of wires were severed. Shortly I will be putting them back together and seeing how it runs. Hopefully this fixes it!

 

wait we have a light under the 0 on the rpm gauge?

 

^ saw that too, what is that? never seen it before... and can see the OP's eyes in the reflection too !!

 

That's the Park light . Converting to a manual is next on the list after I get it running properly.

 

So a little late night update. I repaired the broken wires, and it fired up with no codes, and best of all no more limp mode. But it was still making that party horn noise, fairly loud. So I go to take it for a drive to see if I can get any boost. The entire time I was driving, it was making that whining noise, apparently loud enough for my dad to hear. Under WOT, it started making that noise even louder and louder.

Then, all of a sudden, I the party horn noise stops and I hear like spewing-type noises, and lots of oil smoke, and I mean ALOT of it, comes shooting out the back of the car, along with filling the cabin with it. It was enough smoke to cause my neighbors to get out of their house, and for someone to call 911 to report a forest fire in the area. So I coast home, and take a look under the car. There was lots of oil dripping from the wastegate control actuator where the rod connects to the door. There is no reading on the dipstick.


What in the hell just happened?

 

I just you just got yourself a pretty fancy door stop on the shape of turbos.

 

Turbocharger failure.

 

Hopefully you didnt run it low enough on oil to damage the bearings, only time will tell. Either way looks like it is time to get a good set of used turbos or go single

 

Yeah, I didn't run it for very long after the turbos blew. What sucks is that I got them no more than a month or so ago from someone here on the forums. I still do have my other set lying around, which I'm pretty sure were boosting fine. Single turbo is in the car's future, preferably a GT35R or something that spools even quicker.