bencb44

iTrader: (2)

I'm currently rebuilding my engine and need a new clutch. I was planning on buying a Centerforce Daul Friction Plate from Mazdatrix , which supposedly has 90% stronger grip, and go with a lightweight steel flywheel, but I just found out that the flywheel won't work with the clutch so if I want to use that clutch, I need to stick with the OE flywheel. So my questions are these
1. Do you guys think that sacrificing the light weight flywheel for the better grip is worth it?
2. Is this just major overkill
and
3. What clutch/flywheel setup are you guys usingand how do you like it.
and this is totally unrealted, but can the apexi power fc work with sequential turbo setups?
I tried to search, but my computer is being dumb and keeps freezing when I do.

my mods are going to be:
Pettit streetport motor
BNR Stage 3 Turbos
3"dp,mp, and catback
hks dual intake
underdrive pulley kit
APEXi fmic
Koyo rad.
short shifter

Thanks a lot for the help.

BDC

I vote for using the lightweight flywheel and a different manufacturer's clutch, such as ACT.

B

zmarko

I would agree.

rynberg

Lots of people with bad Centerforce clutch experience, lots of people here with good ACT S/S or Extreme clutch experience.

As far as reputable flywheels, there's Racing Beat, SR Motorsports, and ACT.

Yes, the PFC controls the sequential setup and the oil metering pump (unlike other standalone ecus).

SlingShotRX7

if you gonna do it, do it right the first time.

go overkill on your clutch. or you can be like me
got clutch changed last year, but now need a new one
because now my clutch can't hold the power, and
slips when i get on boost.

IMO: get yourself a sprung 4 puck or 6puck clutch.
Depending if you mainly road race or drag race.

If you drag race mostly, get the OEM. Heavier weight
actually helps keep it spinning at high rpms better.

rynberg

I totally disagree. That style of clutch is not meant for street use and is hard on both the flywheel and transmission. If the guy is going with a large single turbo in the near future, yes, but that kind of clutch is completely unnecessary for any car with twins.

SlingShotRX7

the Spec sprung 4puck is very street friendly from i understand.

and from his mods list.. with BNR stage 3's @ 18psi+ can
reach over 400rhwp..

bencb44

iTrader: (2)

i'm going to keep it at stock boost levels. I'm shooting for 400whp.
I was talking to Rotary Performance today and they suggest their Bonez Street-comp clutch with lightened steel flywheel. Anyone evr used that clutch or entire combo?

rynberg

That's an oxymoron. Not possible.

bencb44

iTrader: (2)

400whp max. oh that bring up another question, would it be very safe to run it at 15 psi. I forgot to list that I'm getting an APEXi power fc too. I'm just going to be driving on the street, so I want it to last without putting too much strain on the engine. How high would you turn the boost up?

bencb44

iTrader: (2)

hey rynberg, what kind of wheels are those?

rynberg

First of all, you're going to need to upgrade your fuel system with larger secondaries and fuel pump to go anywhere near that power level.

Secondly, with proper tuning (and I would run water injection), 400 rwhp will not be a ticking time bomb. However, if you expect to get 80k miles on a 13B running at 400 rwhp, you're delusional.

rynberg

They're Enkei RP-01 in 18x8.5/18x9.5. You can find my write-up with pics in the suspension forum, search for "enkei" under my username.

SlingShotRX7

FYI..

you got full exhaust and intake and a IC..

and no EMS?? (engine management system)

are you crazy.. your car right now is a ticking time bomb.
If I was you. I would drive it real gently. until you get the PFC
and a boost controller and a good tune...

BTW.. don't be a girlie man, get yourself a PUCK clutch..
regular clutch duel friction and etc. isn't gonna hold 400+hp

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

first let me congratulate you on your choice of engine builders. you are going to end up w an engine better than most. Cam has alot of motor tricks up his sleeve.

the clutch issue is a no brainer. if you primarily drive the car on the street and don't plan to repeatedly drag race it at the track or road race it you do not want a puck clutch. they may hold but they eat flywheels and clutches regularly. if you are making 400 rwhp or less a well chosen ACT, Spec or Bonez is the ticket as BDC, Zmarko and Rynberg suggest.

if you are going to spend alot of time on the track then slingshot's suggestion might be more appropriate.

i run an Exedy Hyper Single cerametallic and like it but am running 84 lbs/minute of turbos so i have to run a puck clutch.

i also think alot of Rotary Performance... they know their stuff so if you have a relation w them i suggest you let them make the call after you have given the all your info. since Pettit is building your motor you might ask Cam. he will give you the straight story even if you buy the clutch from someone else.

good luck,

howard coleman

maxcooper

"Streetable" does not mean that it is just like any other street clutch. I have a sprung puck clutch and while I do consider it streetable, it would give anyone trouble if they just jumped in the car and tried to drive it. It takes more concentration to drive than a clutch with an organic disc. A puck clutch is a bad idea, IMO, if you want to drive your car on the street and don't have more than 400 WHP.

I don't understand why the Centerforce clutch was said to be incompatible with the light steel flywheel. I used that clutch with a Racing Beat aluminum flywheel for a long time. I like the Centerforce clutch for a lightly upgraded car that won't see drag strip duty. The pedal effort is very reasonable and engagement is very smooth (it would be hard to distinguish it from a stock clutch). However, if you are going to be making over 330 WHP or want to go drag racing, I would get a different clutch.

-Max

bencb44

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks for the input guys. I think I'm going to listen to rotary performance and go with the Bonez Street-Comp clutch and ACT Streetlite flywheel.