What do you guys think about this compression test, i am thinking that thee rear rotor is a little weaker than the front but, the engine should still start.

I am thinking i have a fuel problem, i have spark but the engine will no crank

Little background

93 FD Auto 120,000 miles Original Motor

http://users2.ev1.net/%7Eccoutts/Vid...ion%20Test.wmv

 

the rear is a bit weaker but yes it should run ok np. check to see if you have fuel pressure. that front rotor has nice compression for an original with100+ miles sure it has not been rebuilt?

 

Dude, please don't give advice on what you don't know about.

You have a blown apex seal. You can see the compression bounce (indictive of one of the 3 seals gone bad) plain as day. Basically your rear housing and possibly rotor is shot. If you want to try to start the car like that, you may even get chunks of the seal goint through the turbine wheel and destroying the turbos.

 

you may have 2 blown seals

 

ROFLMAO!

 

I thought the compression IS supposed to bounce once per rotor face so bouncing is actually good except that in his case the rear rotor has erratic higher/lower bounces compared to the more consistent (and higher) front rotor bounces

 

what? The compression looks fine to be also... maybe im missing something in that video..................... but the compression is suppose to bounce like that.

I just did my compression and it was just like that. And my motor idles fine and pulls strong as hell..

 

no he means that it's bounching to a differnet PSI which it shouldn't be. Looks like its in the 90s for 2 faces and then in the 80s for the 3rd face on the rear rotor.. at least thats what I think he means...

 

even so. that dosent mean there is a blown apex seal......

 

Tact is the key here gentlemen. No need to flame.

 

Im not trying to flame. I apologize if i came across that way.

 

The Front Rotor is Great the Rear is a little low but that skip is the video.

When i was taking it off the camera the computer froze for a sec, that is why it looks weird. But the last part of the video is ok, This is what i got out of the video.

Front 117 117 120 Est.
Rear 100 95 88 Est. This may be a Cracked Corner Seal, They will make the compression lower a bit.

But i would say that the motor will start and run fine, Just trying to track the problem down.

 

whats the problem besides the compression?

 

It will turn over and over and not even Pop.

I have Replaced the fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Sent the injectors to be cleaned and check the Ignition, everthing should be fine. Not getting any Codes. Just cant tell if the fuel injectors are firing.

I was having a problem with a Check engine light ( Witch was a #2 Code NE Crank Angle Sensor) But have fixed that problem. I found the problem ( I had the Igniton switch start to smoke when i turned the igniton to start so i just installed a push button and everthing on the ignition switch except the start positon worked, Well i didnt no that the start wire coming off the switch had power on it all the time, well for some reason it made the code come up. Got a new Igniton switch and the check engine light went away , but the car will still not start. Just crank Crank Crank....

I am just going to have an take it to the local Rotary Friendly Shop (MAZ-MAX) and tell them to fix it, i am getting tired of F**king with it