Clutch won't disengage?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 73
From: Japan
Clutch won't disengage?
Won't shift into gear when running, lunges when you attempt to start it in gear with clutch pedal depressed.
Was working normally. After the slave cylinder blew out, I pulled it, overhauled, then re-installed it, and now it pulls the pressure plate back and releases it again like normal. First thought was pressure plate ring, but it pulls and releases without slipping. Clutch pedal feels firm, attempted to bleed several additional times, I get fluid out every time. Any ideas on what I should try before transmission has to come off.
It is an SR Motorsports flywheel btw.
Seen lots of FD clutch horror stories over the years, mine have always worked fine after putting the legos together. Hope it is not my turn.
Was working normally. After the slave cylinder blew out, I pulled it, overhauled, then re-installed it, and now it pulls the pressure plate back and releases it again like normal. First thought was pressure plate ring, but it pulls and releases without slipping. Clutch pedal feels firm, attempted to bleed several additional times, I get fluid out every time. Any ideas on what I should try before transmission has to come off.
It is an SR Motorsports flywheel btw.
Seen lots of FD clutch horror stories over the years, mine have always worked fine after putting the legos together. Hope it is not my turn.
It's going to be clutch hydraulics. If your slave died, get a NEW slave, NEW master, and a braided stainless clutch line.
I've tried on a number of occasions to rebuild clutch hydraulics and it never works right. New parts are the way to go.
If one fails, the rest will fail in short order. You put a new part on, you now increase the hydraulic load (with new, tight seals) on the old part and it blows out. Just do it all at once.
It is possible you just still have air in the system, but I'd just do it all right.
Dale
I've tried on a number of occasions to rebuild clutch hydraulics and it never works right. New parts are the way to go.
If one fails, the rest will fail in short order. You put a new part on, you now increase the hydraulic load (with new, tight seals) on the old part and it blows out. Just do it all at once.
It is possible you just still have air in the system, but I'd just do it all right.
Dale
It's going to be clutch hydraulics. If your slave died, get a NEW slave, NEW master, and a braided stainless clutch line.
I've tried on a number of occasions to rebuild clutch hydraulics and it never works right. New parts are the way to go.
If one fails, the rest will fail in short order. You put a new part on, you now increase the hydraulic load (with new, tight seals) on the old part and it blows out. Just do it all at once.
It is possible you just still have air in the system, but I'd just do it all right.
Dale
I've tried on a number of occasions to rebuild clutch hydraulics and it never works right. New parts are the way to go.
If one fails, the rest will fail in short order. You put a new part on, you now increase the hydraulic load (with new, tight seals) on the old part and it blows out. Just do it all at once.
It is possible you just still have air in the system, but I'd just do it all right.
Dale
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 73
From: Japan
Update:
Guy that picked up this project from me found that the disc was just stuck to the flywheel. Maybe the leaking slave cylinder slightly bonded it.
He just started it several times with it in gear and it broke free.
Guy that picked up this project from me found that the disc was just stuck to the flywheel. Maybe the leaking slave cylinder slightly bonded it.
He just started it several times with it in gear and it broke free.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







