CEL: code 13; pressuer sensor
12-22-11, 06:14 PM
#1
CEL: code 13; pressuer sensor
hello. i recently picked up an fd and as most fd's, this was a failed project for at least a handful of people before i snagged it.
anyway.. im having some issues with the car and am hoping some insight will help me out.
firstly, it will not start without a shot of ether when its cold. after it warms up though, it seems moderately easy to start and idles relatively ok, if not a bit high (around 1200)
secondly it has a bad hesitation problem. slow revv it will go up to about 2800rpm then cut out. if i revv it even slower, i can break that barrier till about 5500. if i just stomp on the gas, it will die till i let off
i pulled codes and this is what i have
9-water thermosensor
11- intake air thermosensor
12-throttle sensor
13-pressure sensor
20-oil metering pump position
23-fuel thermosensor
i have a parts fd available to me and it has already been invaluable as far as swapping broken or missing pieces over but the engine for it is about 20 miles away and i ran out of day light to grab the ait water tps etc..
it did have the pressure sensor on the firewall still so i swapped those out and unplugged the battery for a few minutes. i started the car and the hesitation still persists. i pulled codes and still the pressure sensor code is showing. is there something else that could be making the error code? my fear is that im going to replace all the other sensors tomorrow and my cel and hesitation arent going to go away.
i think i will keep this thread for general diagnostics for this car so please please give me any input you can. this old gal is deserving of a nice life and someone to treat her right.
anyway.. im having some issues with the car and am hoping some insight will help me out.
firstly, it will not start without a shot of ether when its cold. after it warms up though, it seems moderately easy to start and idles relatively ok, if not a bit high (around 1200)
secondly it has a bad hesitation problem. slow revv it will go up to about 2800rpm then cut out. if i revv it even slower, i can break that barrier till about 5500. if i just stomp on the gas, it will die till i let off
i pulled codes and this is what i have
9-water thermosensor
11- intake air thermosensor
12-throttle sensor
13-pressure sensor
20-oil metering pump position
23-fuel thermosensor
i have a parts fd available to me and it has already been invaluable as far as swapping broken or missing pieces over but the engine for it is about 20 miles away and i ran out of day light to grab the ait water tps etc..
it did have the pressure sensor on the firewall still so i swapped those out and unplugged the battery for a few minutes. i started the car and the hesitation still persists. i pulled codes and still the pressure sensor code is showing. is there something else that could be making the error code? my fear is that im going to replace all the other sensors tomorrow and my cel and hesitation arent going to go away.
i think i will keep this thread for general diagnostics for this car so please please give me any input you can. this old gal is deserving of a nice life and someone to treat her right.
12-22-11, 06:45 PM
#3
thanks for the response. maybe ill go try to swap computers before i start thinking harness
i have a pfc and plugged it in. car wont even start with pfc. it will catch and rev up to about 2k then die again. will do this over and over till it floods itself out
i have a pfc and plugged it in. car wont even start with pfc. it will catch and rev up to about 2k then die again. will do this over and over till it floods itself out
12-22-11, 07:04 PM
#6
i have a parts fd available to me and it has already been invaluable as far as swapping broken or missing pieces over but the engine for it is about 20 miles away and i ran out of day light to grab the ait water tps etc..
Omp will infact throw it into limp mode and thats probably what you are experiencing....along with some other problems.
It wont be hard. Just look at what codes your throwing and then fix it. Now the hard part will come when its running like *** and not throwing any codes :/
Also your going need to dial in that TPS that you have on there or are going to put on and you can bring your idle down that way as well. Just takes a multimeter and a few minutes.
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12-23-11, 01:41 PM
#8
i am horrible with wiring but while pulling off my replacement harness and sensors, i realized that all of these sensors are within an 8" radius of eachother.
is there a common ground for all of them? or how do they work? im thinking that it would be more likely to have a ground or even the computer to be broken than to have all of these sensors go kaput or have a minimum of 6 separate wires in 6 different locations break or short out.
is there a common ground for all of them? or how do they work? im thinking that it would be more likely to have a ground or even the computer to be broken than to have all of these sensors go kaput or have a minimum of 6 separate wires in 6 different locations break or short out.
12-26-11, 07:02 PM
#9
ok so ive had a busy weekend. talk about a fun car to work on. nothing is simple, easy or allows for cognitive function to wane.
anyway, in our last episode, i had a bunch of problems. 3000rpm hesitation, hard start, all serious sensors kaput, tach thinking it was a mexican jumping bean and more.
after swapping out gauge clusters, the tach issue was resolved.
after switching computers and even trying a pfc, i decided that the engine harness could potentially be the issue with the car now so on saturday i pulled it out. today i got the new harness in and at the same time, i installed a block off plate kit and ran new silicone hoses and installed some clean and fresh stock injectors.
with some help from my buddy who has a prime and working example of stock twins, we were well on our way to success. after about 3 hours of tinkering and thinking, the car was finally back together.
excited, i hopped into the car and turned the key; no life of car. doh forgot battery
excited, i hopped into the car and turned the key; crank crank crank... not even a sputter. doh forgot the computer!
excited, i hopped into the car and turned the key; chug chug chug sputter die.. hm...
unplug computer, install pfc, turn key, chug chug chug vroom 2000 rpm. yay
hm.. sounds funny. air leak at throttle body elbow. fixed. still funny and intake manifold is wobbly. oops... tighten those up. ok now its good.
revv revvv.. hesitation is now at 5000 rpm and before i could toy with it more, the engine died for an unknown reason (possibly fuel? flooded itself, or ran out). daylight was gone so cleaned up and went inside.
stock computer has a whole new set of codes now though. looks like they are all the bs i either deleted or bypassed so whatever i guess. none of the important codes returned.
does anyone know why it would hesitate at 5k and why its so hard to start?
thanks to the club, the car is coming along and its nice to feel progress, even if its slow, drawn out and frustrating.
current CEL list:
28-Solenoid valve - EGR
30-Solenoid valve - split air bypass
31-solenoid valve - relief 1
32-Solenoid valve - switching
33-Solenoid valve - port air bypass
38-Solenoid valve - accelerated warmup system and air supply valve
39-Solenoid valve - relief 2
42-Solenoid valve - turbo precontrol
43-Solenoid valve - wastegate control
50-Solenoid valve - double throttle control
anyway, in our last episode, i had a bunch of problems. 3000rpm hesitation, hard start, all serious sensors kaput, tach thinking it was a mexican jumping bean and more.
after swapping out gauge clusters, the tach issue was resolved.
after switching computers and even trying a pfc, i decided that the engine harness could potentially be the issue with the car now so on saturday i pulled it out. today i got the new harness in and at the same time, i installed a block off plate kit and ran new silicone hoses and installed some clean and fresh stock injectors.
with some help from my buddy who has a prime and working example of stock twins, we were well on our way to success. after about 3 hours of tinkering and thinking, the car was finally back together.
excited, i hopped into the car and turned the key; no life of car. doh forgot battery
excited, i hopped into the car and turned the key; crank crank crank... not even a sputter. doh forgot the computer!
excited, i hopped into the car and turned the key; chug chug chug sputter die.. hm...
unplug computer, install pfc, turn key, chug chug chug vroom 2000 rpm. yay
hm.. sounds funny. air leak at throttle body elbow. fixed. still funny and intake manifold is wobbly. oops... tighten those up. ok now its good.
revv revvv.. hesitation is now at 5000 rpm and before i could toy with it more, the engine died for an unknown reason (possibly fuel? flooded itself, or ran out). daylight was gone so cleaned up and went inside.
stock computer has a whole new set of codes now though. looks like they are all the bs i either deleted or bypassed so whatever i guess. none of the important codes returned.
does anyone know why it would hesitate at 5k and why its so hard to start?
thanks to the club, the car is coming along and its nice to feel progress, even if its slow, drawn out and frustrating.
current CEL list:
28-Solenoid valve - EGR
30-Solenoid valve - split air bypass
31-solenoid valve - relief 1
32-Solenoid valve - switching
33-Solenoid valve - port air bypass
38-Solenoid valve - accelerated warmup system and air supply valve
39-Solenoid valve - relief 2
42-Solenoid valve - turbo precontrol
43-Solenoid valve - wastegate control
50-Solenoid valve - double throttle control
12-26-11, 07:12 PM
#11
deleted everything thats listed on 'the current CEL list'. im only running 4 or maybe 5 solenoids from the rack. im sorry but i dont know enough about these cars to say what i have and dont have. basically just copied my friends car to the T. he has been running his car for a few years now in this configuration and it seems to be absolutely perfect.
i may have to do a compression test to rule out low compression causing the hard starts but once its running it sounds really really healthy so im skeptical to think thats the issue.
i may have to do a compression test to rule out low compression causing the hard starts but once its running it sounds really really healthy so im skeptical to think thats the issue.
12-28-11, 06:37 PM
#13
so i thought one rotor was missing because of poor spark plug wires. the ones on here looked shot and had heater hose wrapped around each one.
while i had the upper mani off, i replaced the throttlebody and elbow, (studs broken and holes stripped for tb to elbow on old one). replaced tps. replaced plug wires and threw in a known working coilpack and harness.
it now starts easier and seems like the hesitation is gone but its still not running very smooth and will have random back fires at idle(probably from the unburnt fuel). still seems like one rotor is for whatever reason not firing. this car idled and purred like a kitten just a few days ago. i dont think i could have blown the engine by replacing a harness so i guess next stop is to pull plugs and see if its flooded, replace plugs, do comp test just to ease my worried mind.
any more ideas on why it wouldnt be running as smoothly as it should be?
also, may not be related, but the freaking intake is loud as crap. i dont think it was this loud before but it now has 2 open air ports where the bac and air pump feeds went. even if i capped those off, i dont think it will make it any more quiet.
while i had the upper mani off, i replaced the throttlebody and elbow, (studs broken and holes stripped for tb to elbow on old one). replaced tps. replaced plug wires and threw in a known working coilpack and harness.
it now starts easier and seems like the hesitation is gone but its still not running very smooth and will have random back fires at idle(probably from the unburnt fuel). still seems like one rotor is for whatever reason not firing. this car idled and purred like a kitten just a few days ago. i dont think i could have blown the engine by replacing a harness so i guess next stop is to pull plugs and see if its flooded, replace plugs, do comp test just to ease my worried mind.
any more ideas on why it wouldnt be running as smoothly as it should be?
also, may not be related, but the freaking intake is loud as crap. i dont think it was this loud before but it now has 2 open air ports where the bac and air pump feeds went. even if i capped those off, i dont think it will make it any more quiet.
12-28-11, 07:24 PM
#14
ok so curiosity got the best of me.
pulled plugs. rear was soaked.. like really soaked.. and i broke the ceramic on the plug while trying to get it out.
cranked it for 45 seconds or so with plugs removed and computer unplugged to get all the fuel out.
did a compression test. solid 90 bumps on both rotors.
replaced with some 6eq plugs i had laying around and plugged in the pfc this time. fired right up. was idling at 3200 or so, i think thats because of the pfc learning thing? anyway. revved it up. sounds way way way way better. intake got quiet too. it does look like i will need to do an oil change though. oil is full of gasoline now.
pulled plugs. rear was soaked.. like really soaked.. and i broke the ceramic on the plug while trying to get it out.
cranked it for 45 seconds or so with plugs removed and computer unplugged to get all the fuel out.
did a compression test. solid 90 bumps on both rotors.
replaced with some 6eq plugs i had laying around and plugged in the pfc this time. fired right up. was idling at 3200 or so, i think thats because of the pfc learning thing? anyway. revved it up. sounds way way way way better. intake got quiet too. it does look like i will need to do an oil change though. oil is full of gasoline now.
12-30-11, 02:35 PM
#17
ok more problems..
the idle is still high. pfc and tach both say 3000 but my head tells me its closer to 2000. i no longer trust the tach or pfc. also the car doesnt get down to boogy like one would expect. it revvs slow and still doesnt seem like its running very clean, although no fuel smell or black stuff out the pipes. for what ever reason, im thinking that the crank angle sensors are the culprit.
when i replaced the harness, i had to guess which sensor went to which connector. im pretty sure i put the grey one on the bottom and the white one on the top sensor. is that correct? would it matter? anyway.
does anybody have any ideas?
the idle is still high. pfc and tach both say 3000 but my head tells me its closer to 2000. i no longer trust the tach or pfc. also the car doesnt get down to boogy like one would expect. it revvs slow and still doesnt seem like its running very clean, although no fuel smell or black stuff out the pipes. for what ever reason, im thinking that the crank angle sensors are the culprit.
when i replaced the harness, i had to guess which sensor went to which connector. im pretty sure i put the grey one on the bottom and the white one on the top sensor. is that correct? would it matter? anyway.
does anybody have any ideas?
01-01-12, 09:45 PM
#18
Pulled out the clean injectors and put the old pmed back in. Starts easy. Idle like it should. Sounds like it should. Revvs to the moon with ease. Starting to feel like a good car. While driving though, getting 2800rpm hesitation und3r load. Limp mode came back?
01-02-12, 03:52 PM
#19
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
If you have a PowerFC in the car, there is no limp mode. The PowerFC runs the car the best it can with what inputs and outputs there are.
If you're getting bucking around 3000 RPM it's going to be fuel related. That's when the secondary injectors come in. Either your secondaries are not so hot or you have general fuel pressure problems.
Dale
If you're getting bucking around 3000 RPM it's going to be fuel related. That's when the secondary injectors come in. Either your secondaries are not so hot or you have general fuel pressure problems.
Dale
01-06-12, 10:57 AM
#20
with the 2800 hesitation, it was on the stock computer. my lack of wastegate and precontrol were putting it in limp mode. i have since put the car back on the pfc and everything is gravy now. even drove it to work today with 0 problems or issues.
also id like to apologize for my earlier nearly incomprehensible post. i was on my phone and didnt proof read.
also id like to apologize for my earlier nearly incomprehensible post. i was on my phone and didnt proof read.
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