Carbon or just plain unburnt oil?
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Carbon or just plain burnt oil on rotors
See attached poor quality pics of my rear rotor housing. The housings look really good imo. The apex looks to be well lubed (maybe too well), and you can still see parts of the rotor itself (not totally covered). The little bit of the housing I could feel was smooth as can be. The front rotor has a little better compression so I assume it looks as good or better. I run an omp and premix at 1oz per gallon and I think it is way too much. So your guys opinion..is this Carbon as a result of running too rich? Or just too much gunk building up from too much oil?
Last edited by Testrun; 01-23-23 at 09:17 PM.
#2
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
In my experience carbon buildup is usually on the face of the rotor. In bad cases it affects hard seal/spring movement. I can’t see a lot of that in the pictures.
IMO 1 oz. @ gallon with an OMP is too much. That’s what most run WITHOUT an OMP.
I run half that, or .5 oz. @ gallon with the OMP AND boost activated water
injection.
There’s just a lot of surface area on a rotary and some carbon is to be expected…and I can’t tell if yours has a problem. But I think you can reduce the premix and consider something like WI to minimize it.
What do your plugs look like?
IMO 1 oz. @ gallon with an OMP is too much. That’s what most run WITHOUT an OMP.
I run half that, or .5 oz. @ gallon with the OMP AND boost activated water
injection.
There’s just a lot of surface area on a rotary and some carbon is to be expected…and I can’t tell if yours has a problem. But I think you can reduce the premix and consider something like WI to minimize it.
What do your plugs look like?
Last edited by Sgtblue; 01-24-23 at 05:23 AM.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I haven't pulled the plugs in awhile. I will change them out once the car is back from the shop. Getting a bad manifold leak fixed. Had 2 broken studs.I will be sure and take a pic though. I am premixing so much for fear of the aftermarket seals. I think it is a balancing act. I did just majorly enrichen the idle to drive it to the shop as it went a little lean before and was having a tendency to stall. I don't want to mess with anything until the leak is fixed for proper afr. I doubt that much build up is from my 6 mile jaunt though lol. She needs to be taken out and run hard! I do run water
Last edited by Testrun; 01-24-23 at 07:53 AM.
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
All rotors get carboned up almost immediately. It's not oil or premix or anything, it's the gasoline. Totally normal.
Dale
Dale
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j9fd3s (01-24-23)
#5
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#6
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (2)
I need to invest in a scope like this. Would be interesting to see the internals on my stock motor with 62k miles. I have the OMP and premix .5oz. I also have WI that I spray when boost is over 10psi with the AEM V3 250cc. I was running straight water, but recently switched to boost juice to see if the car reacted any differently.
If you really want to go down a rabbit hole, check out the threads discussing the removal of the OMP and theories as to why. I am on the fence, but the logic in having it removed with extra premix or at least pulling from only 2 cycle oil as opposed to regular oil makes sense to me.
If you really want to go down a rabbit hole, check out the threads discussing the removal of the OMP and theories as to why. I am on the fence, but the logic in having it removed with extra premix or at least pulling from only 2 cycle oil as opposed to regular oil makes sense to me.
#7
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Originally Posted by j9fd3s;[url=tel:12547191
12547191]this is an over simplification but gasoline is a hydroCARBON. we burn the hydrogen, and then the carbon is kind of a left over.
The shape and surface area of the combustion chamber, idle times, short trips that only briefly get the car up to full temp, tuning, oil change intervals (w/OMP), amount of premix and probably other things I’m forgetting all play a role in carbon deposits. Gas is only one.
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Howard Coleman (01-24-23)
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#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I need to invest in a scope like this. Would be interesting to see the internals on my stock motor with 62k miles. I have the OMP and premix .5oz. I also have WI that I spray when boost is over 10psi with the AEM V3 250cc. I was running straight water, but recently switched to boost juice to see if the car reacted any differently. If you really want to go down a rabbit hole, check out the threads discussing the removal of the OMP and theories as to why. I am on the fence, but the logic in having it removed with extra premix or at least pulling from only 2 cycle oil as opposed to regular oil makes sense to me.
Omp or no omp.. yes long and drawn out. I believe the thickness you get with sump oil can't be matched by the premix and therefore a combo of both is good (all just my opinion from what I've read over the years). No omp you better have fuel kicking on decel and blah, blah... the discussion could go on forever.
I am just curious as to what I am looking at to keep this thing happy and healthy. I am very pleased with what I see so far.
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
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#12
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (2)
I've done a couple years of research on this and it is basically up to you to determine what's up. I was excited to peer into this thing after 10k+ miles or so. Anything with meth can possibly wash off lube is what I was told and I believe to an extent. I say to an extent because I know someone with a decent sized turbo that's been pushing some pretty serious boost who depends on meth injection or bye bye motor. He has many miles and is still doing strong on after market seals (goopy I believe). Another in the thread about the RX Parts seals may of had an issue with his 50/50 washing lube off and basically trashing his motor pretty quick while on a road course. I think there was more at fault for that.
Omp or no omp.. yes long and drawn out. I believe the thickness you get with sump oil can't be matched by the premix and therefore a combo of both is good (all just my opinion from what I've read over the years). No omp you better have fuel kicking on decel and blah, blah... the discussion could go on forever.
I am just curious as to what I am looking at to keep this thing happy and healthy. I am very pleased with what I see so far.
Omp or no omp.. yes long and drawn out. I believe the thickness you get with sump oil can't be matched by the premix and therefore a combo of both is good (all just my opinion from what I've read over the years). No omp you better have fuel kicking on decel and blah, blah... the discussion could go on forever.
I am just curious as to what I am looking at to keep this thing happy and healthy. I am very pleased with what I see so far.
The sump oil also has a completely different burning point and from what I have read, may or may not burn off in the combustion cycle, potentially adding more carbon or gunk in the motor. Dont know if that is good because its keeping the motor more lubricated or if its adding carbon and gunk to be a hazard.
No OMP, yes you would likely want fuel on decel. I was thinking that the OMP adapter with separate tank pulling only 2 cycle and still premixing .5oz/gal of gas would be the ideal situation.
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I just got my car back home. I will change the plugs in the next few days and we can look at that also. sorry all for this additional thread. I like to see stuff like this. Gives me a better understanding of what's going on. Every actions reaction.
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Here are the plugs. This was a trip from Ft. Lauderdale round trip Deal's gap, multiple runs around the dragon and hundreds around here. Estimated 3k miles or so....
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Shell 93
These are 9s in leading and trailing and the pick should be
Rear leading trailing
Front leading trailing... whichever are more 2 tones should be the trailing
These are 9s in leading and trailing and the pick should be
Rear leading trailing
Front leading trailing... whichever are more 2 tones should be the trailing
Last edited by Testrun; 01-27-23 at 01:52 PM.
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