So after dealing with the flooded engine situation using the following procedure:
1. Remove current spark plugs
2. Remove EGI fuse
3. Crank motor for 10-15 seconds
4. Clean area around spark plug holes
5. Squirt a little ATF in the lower spark plug holes
6. Install new spark plugs
7. Re-install EGI fuse
8. Start the car

And compression appears to be OK the following happens:

1. Car starts idles roughly at around 500 rpm then stalls within 1-2 seconds
2. Second time around I hit the accelerator pedal and the car revs slightly then dies no matter what I do. This happens within 3-4 seconds.

What on earth do you think is wrong? I double checked the spark plug cables and I am using new spark plugs as well.

Just to confirm for the leading spark plugs. The 'bunched' cable with the red stripe should go to the spark plug closest to the front of the car and the other one to the back.

The two blue cables - one has a crimped covering goes to the front of the car and the other one goes to the back (pretty obvious by the length of the cable)

I can't think of anything else and I am at the point of giving up and having it towed to the RX7 tuner up the road..

Any ideas?

 

So you did do a compression test or what?

 

I had a formal compression test run about 6 months ago and was getting around 80psi on both rotors warm and 95psi on both rotors cold.

The incident that I am talking about now only occured after I moved the car and only had it running for about 30 seconds before switching off.

The compression test I did this afternoon was non-scientific and was purely subjective to the human hearing ;-) Basically the each rotor made the same popping noise. I may go out and buy a normal compression tester just to get a feel for whether the engine is blown or not.

I really doubt the engine is blown but think it may be a problem with the injectors. I had the primaries upgraded to 850ccs and the car has been running like a rich SOB, I have been meaning to re-tune the car but I haven't had time.

At this stage, I want to fix the car and sell it. I have had enough of this car

 

vacuum leak maby? do you have a boost gauge ? how much vacuum you pulling at startup?
did you put automatic transmission fluid in the spark plug holes?

 

I put in actually a little bit of normal engine oil. I didn't use ATF as I heard it can toast your catalytic convertor and figured engine oil would do the trick.
Vacuum at startup is 0.

I would be suprised if I had a vacuum leak, I went through the whole turbo simplicatin setup a while back but it's a good point to consider.

 

do you have 0 vacuum when the car is running at startup? i.e idling (i know your car just stalls) - but for the few seconds it runs, whats the vacuum reading?
If you have 0 vacuum thats your problem.

I get 350mm/hg of vacuum at idle on with a cold engine. not sure what that = in other measurements.

 

Truth be told, I don't think the car is running long enough to obtain a realistic reading.. I wonder if I should try the auto transmission fluid as the engine does have lowish compression.

 

i would not put ATF in engine.
even if the engine runs for 1 second you should be able to get a vacuum reading from your boost gauge.
has it ran properly since you did your "turbo simplification"?

 

It's been running fine though very rich due to the primary injector deal. Car has been very reliable over the last 6 months. This is the first time it's happened to me but also the first time I have shut off the engine within 30 seconds AND it's been pretty cold.

Now it's warmed up I am concerned that it's not catching. I am going to go buy a compression tester tomorrow and see if that is an issue. Try the whole process again and if that fails and compression is OK I'll try a clutch start.

Thanks for your help, if you have any ideas please let me know. I need to get rid of this car ASAP and I can't sell it in it's current state.

 

Zexxon,

What happens if you jumper the "F/P" terminal in the Data Link Connector under the hood to its "GND" terminal and then try to start the car?

 

Do you have the stock fuel pump installed? I have a good guess of what it may be if you have recently tampered with your fuel pump / connectors / grounds