C’s shifter vs jp3 shifter (re amemiya)
#1
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C’s shifter vs jp3 shifter (re amemiya)
So is the jp3 shifter a replica of the car’s shifter? Or the re amemiya?
Or are they all the same pretty much?
i have the b&m now and it’s a little notchier and shorter than the jp3 shifter. But i can’t get the front two bolts to tighten or go in (because the shifter opening on the trans tunnel) is in the way (unless you trim it)?
Or are they all the same pretty much?
i have the b&m now and it’s a little notchier and shorter than the jp3 shifter. But i can’t get the front two bolts to tighten or go in (because the shifter opening on the trans tunnel) is in the way (unless you trim it)?
#4
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
FWIW ——> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...fters-1132207/
Regardless, I agree with the above…sounds like your driveline/PPF is out of wack.
Regardless, I agree with the above…sounds like your driveline/PPF is out of wack.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 08-31-22 at 09:51 AM.
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gmonsen (09-01-22)
#6
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Gotcha thanks guys. I liked the jp3 shifter. The b&m I think I like better it’s a tad shorter and more notchy clicky.
never tried the c’s. But it looks like the jp3.
I’ll check the driveline and ppf diff if I can. Thx
never tried the c’s. But it looks like the jp3.
I’ll check the driveline and ppf diff if I can. Thx
#7
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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No one but me seems to like it, but I have the RE-Amemiya one and haven't had a problem with it in years. I figure if your shifter is sloppy enough to need a 500 dollar C's shifter, then bushings is really what you need. The FD came from the factory with a nice short throw stock shifter, just like a Miata. The Amemiya cuts it down an inch or two, but doesn't promote powering your FD into gear by moving the pivot point up the shaft. Best of both worlds, IMO.
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#8
The Ancient
The C's short shifter was the only real short shifter available until the JP3. If you have never tried one of these, it would be hard to convey how different they are from the stock or simply shortened shifter.
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Mod Bugs (09-03-22)
#9
Rotor or no motor
iTrader: (24)
No one but me seems to like it, but I have the RE-Amemiya one and haven't had a problem with it in years. I figure if your shifter is sloppy enough to need a 500 dollar C's shifter, then bushings is really what you need. The FD came from the factory with a nice short throw stock shifter, just like a Miata. The Amemiya cuts it down an inch or two, but doesn't promote powering your FD into gear by moving the pivot point up the shaft. Best of both worlds, IMO.
i removed the re-amemiya way back then to mistakenly install that garbage ikeya formula shifter and then i ended up with a C's . both of them seem to be fine. More or less the same shifter travel.
Last edited by R-R-Rx7; 09-01-22 at 02:26 PM.
#11
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just having some issues getting the front two bolts in and tightened. Does this look like the drive line is out of wack?
#12
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that makes two of us. I heard one of the "rotary gurus" of the past claim that the "short" shifter refers to the actual height and its not an actual short throw shifter, which it sounds like total bullshit. ever since that "guru" said this, everyone is repeating the same bullshit over and over again.
i removed the re-amemiya way back then to mistakenly install that garbage ikeya formula shifter and then i ended up with a C's . both of them seem to be fine. More or less the same shifter travel.
i removed the re-amemiya way back then to mistakenly install that garbage ikeya formula shifter and then i ended up with a C's . both of them seem to be fine. More or less the same shifter travel.
#13
Rotor or no motor
iTrader: (24)
I had the C's on my straightcut dogbox also and the shifts themselves were super smooth . Nothing really insinuates that anything will be smooth with the said transmission but the shifter was performing well
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hondahater
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