Aftermarket Gauges
#1
Aftermarket Gauges
So I'm getting a boost gauge (obviously needed) and was reading through the forums on what other gauges to get. I've seen a bunch of threads where people say what they have, but some things seem unnecessary.
The stock cluster already has oil pressure and water temp, but I see people buying these gauges anyway. I'm trying to keep the car clean looking and not having gauges all over the place. If there's something I'm not understanding feel free to correct my thought process.
I was thinking and A/F gauge would be beneficial, and honestly a voltmeter since FDs can be battery drainers on a regular basis.
Thanks
The stock cluster already has oil pressure and water temp, but I see people buying these gauges anyway. I'm trying to keep the car clean looking and not having gauges all over the place. If there's something I'm not understanding feel free to correct my thought process.
I was thinking and A/F gauge would be beneficial, and honestly a voltmeter since FDs can be battery drainers on a regular basis.
Thanks
#2
547hp at the flywheel
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The standard I run on non stock FDs as well as FCs are:
Boost
Coolant temp
Oil pressure
Wideband
The volt shouldnt matter. If your car is draining the battery in anything less than a few months you have a draw and should find out what it is and fix the problem.
Boost
Coolant temp
Oil pressure
Wideband
The volt shouldnt matter. If your car is draining the battery in anything less than a few months you have a draw and should find out what it is and fix the problem.
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#10
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
Gauges? It depends on your mods and what you use the car for. IMO for a car with a stock ECU (stock boost) that is only street driven all you need is coolant temp and boost gauge. As previously stated the coolant temp gauge is not linear and chances are that you will never see that thing rise until the needle is at the H (which is too late).
As for me having a single turbo street driven car my gauges are: EGT and AFR (wideband) but I monitor via the PFC water and air temp, but sometimes I include injector duty cycle and knock (not often though just when I want to see how that is going). Boost I monitor via my boost controller.
As for me having a single turbo street driven car my gauges are: EGT and AFR (wideband) but I monitor via the PFC water and air temp, but sometimes I include injector duty cycle and knock (not often though just when I want to see how that is going). Boost I monitor via my boost controller.
#11
Boilermakers!
iTrader: (157)
Boost, W/B, fuel pressure, water and oil temp, using all Speedhut gauges to match stock cluster.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...psa01ddb58.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...psa01ddb58.jpg
#12
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Gauges? It depends on your mods and what you use the car for. IMO for a car with a stock ECU (stock boost) that is only street driven all you need is coolant temp and boost gauge. As previously stated the coolant temp gauge is not linear and chances are that you will never see that thing rise until the needle is at the H (which is too late).....
#16
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
I suggest you get a wideband when you get a programmable ECU. Otherwise you are wasting your money.
BTW- what I am saying between the lines is that don't up the boost without an ECU... The STOCK ECU runs rich enough to support boltons as long as the boost is kept at 10 PSI. Go above 10 and you are begging for blown engine WB or not.
BTW- what I am saying between the lines is that don't up the boost without an ECU... The STOCK ECU runs rich enough to support boltons as long as the boost is kept at 10 PSI. Go above 10 and you are begging for blown engine WB or not.
#17
Full Member
iTrader: (2)
I know what you mean. Its more of a plan for the future thing. I like to know exactly what my car is doing. I know the stock ecu can handle bolt ons as long as you watch CFM....which is why I was thinking about adding the WB. Numerous posts about upping stock to 12psi, which I prob won't do, but adding a WB would be able to monitor for that too. I'm more so planning on going down the "add bolt ons, watch AFR, control boost at 10-8-10" route. Are you saying you think its a waste of money bc you can add as many bolt ons as you want, the stock ecu runs rich enough?
#18
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
In order to truly make an informed decision whether you need to monitor something based on a modification you have to understand what that modification does. For example, let's say you change out your IC. A decent upgrade will result in two things: lower IAT's and a lower pressure drop (increased boost). The lower pressure drop can actually cause you an engine because the turbos will now be supplying a higher boost level at the UIM. I've personally seen a pressure drop of 2 psi. Meaning my car was boosting 10 psi before the mod and after it was 12. Ok so the fix is to lower the boost back down which is great because now the turbos have to work less hard to achieve the desired boost level. Less hard equates to lower AIT's and less turbo wear. Next is the lower AIT's due to the better cooling capability of the new IC. What is there to worry about? All you are doing is mimicking a colder day. For example lets say you are monitoring a stock car's AIT's and you take it for a spin on a 80 deg F heat and you take notice that you AIT's are in the 120's F... Ok 6 months from now you take you car out again but this time it's 50F outside and well your AIT's are now in the 80's. Are you going to worry that your 100% stock car is going to blow on a colder day? I wouldn't. That is the samething your upgraded IC is doing, instead of your AIT being at 120F it might be at 100F. Again as long as you are still boosting stock levels.
Last edited by Montego; 09-11-13 at 03:37 PM.
#19
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Boost, W/B, fuel pressure, water and oil temp, using all Speedhut gauges to match stock cluster.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...psa01ddb58.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...psa01ddb58.jpg
#20
Rotor or no motor
iTrader: (24)
The stock gauges are not very good, especially water/coolant temperature, which is worse than useless. Some people really like a wideband gauge, but you shouldn't need to monitor air fuel ratios once they are set. Oil pressure and temps and water temps are critical, because those are things that cannot be "tuned". Those are fundamental readings showing how heat is being handled. Speedhut.com has some great, reasonably priced gauges that match the stock gauges and are very popular right now.
Gordon
Gordon
Personally I would go with a defi zd monitor.. compact small with capabilities of everything u ll ever need..
Mounting solutions are not available so you will have to get creative
#22
Full Member
iTrader: (2)
If you stay at stock boost then yes. But then again it doesn't hurt to monitor just in case you have an oddball scenario such a low fuel pressure which can cause a lean condition. Keep in mind that scenario is independent of mods.
In order to truly make an informed decision whether you need to monitor something based on a modification you have to understand what that modification does. For example, let's say you change out your IC. A decent upgrade will result in two things: lower IAT's and a lower pressure drop (increased boost). The lower pressure drop can actually cause you an engine because the turbos will now be supplying a higher boost level at the UIM. I've personally seen a pressure drop of 2 psi. Meaning my car was boosting 10 psi before the mod and after it was 12. Ok so the fix is to lower the boost back down which is great because now the turbos have to work less hard to achieve the desired boost level. Less hard equates to lower AIT's and less turbo wear. Next is the lower AIT's due to the better cooling capability of the new IC. What is there to worry about? All you are doing is mimicking a colder day. For example lets say you are monitoring a stock car's AIT's and you take it for a spin on a 80 deg F heat and you take notice that you AIT's are in the 120's F... Ok 6 months from now you take you car out again but this time it's 50F outside and well your AIT's are now in the 80's. Are you going to worry that your 100% stock car is going to blow on a colder day? I wouldn't. That is the samething your upgraded IC is doing, instead of your AIT being at 120F it might be at 100F. Again as long as you are still boosting stock levels.
In order to truly make an informed decision whether you need to monitor something based on a modification you have to understand what that modification does. For example, let's say you change out your IC. A decent upgrade will result in two things: lower IAT's and a lower pressure drop (increased boost). The lower pressure drop can actually cause you an engine because the turbos will now be supplying a higher boost level at the UIM. I've personally seen a pressure drop of 2 psi. Meaning my car was boosting 10 psi before the mod and after it was 12. Ok so the fix is to lower the boost back down which is great because now the turbos have to work less hard to achieve the desired boost level. Less hard equates to lower AIT's and less turbo wear. Next is the lower AIT's due to the better cooling capability of the new IC. What is there to worry about? All you are doing is mimicking a colder day. For example lets say you are monitoring a stock car's AIT's and you take it for a spin on a 80 deg F heat and you take notice that you AIT's are in the 120's F... Ok 6 months from now you take you car out again but this time it's 50F outside and well your AIT's are now in the 80's. Are you going to worry that your 100% stock car is going to blow on a colder day? I wouldn't. That is the samething your upgraded IC is doing, instead of your AIT being at 120F it might be at 100F. Again as long as you are still boosting stock levels.
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