So I'm getting a boost gauge (obviously needed) and was reading through the forums on what other gauges to get. I've seen a bunch of threads where people say what they have, but some things seem unnecessary.

The stock cluster already has oil pressure and water temp, but I see people buying these gauges anyway. I'm trying to keep the car clean looking and not having gauges all over the place. If there's something I'm not understanding feel free to correct my thought process.

I was thinking and A/F gauge would be beneficial, and honestly a voltmeter since FDs can be battery drainers on a regular basis.

Thanks

 

The standard I run on non stock FDs as well as FCs are:
Boost
Coolant temp
Oil pressure
Wideband

The volt shouldnt matter. If your car is draining the battery in anything less than a few months you have a draw and should find out what it is and fix the problem.

 

So what's the purpose of getting another coolant temp and oil pressure if theyre already in the stock cluster?

Is it just for numbered readings as opposed to Hot/Cold?

 

For coolant your stock one will shoot straight up to Hot with out any notice. So aftermarket is best, helps monitor a more precise temp as well. Same goes with oil.

 

I grab water temp and air temp off the PFC, then run aftermarket boost guage (PFS).

 

Look the link in my sig for my solution. I wanted to keep my interior to look as OEM as possible. It is extremely simple to do.

 

Boost, water temp. and oil temp for me. Stock temp gauge not accurate.

 

Is that the thompson single DIN gauge panel?

 

No. This one is from e-gauges.com. The panel is actually held in place by the "spin lock" gauges on the right and left sides. If I were to do it over again, I would likely get a panel that snapped into place for an easier installation. The Gauges are VDO.

 

Gauges? It depends on your mods and what you use the car for. IMO for a car with a stock ECU (stock boost) that is only street driven all you need is coolant temp and boost gauge. As previously stated the coolant temp gauge is not linear and chances are that you will never see that thing rise until the needle is at the H (which is too late).


As for me having a single turbo street driven car my gauges are: EGT and AFR (wideband) but I monitor via the PFC water and air temp, but sometimes I include injector duty cycle and knock (not often though just when I want to see how that is going). Boost I monitor via my boost controller.

 

Boost, W/B, fuel pressure, water and oil temp, using all Speedhut gauges to match stock cluster.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...psa01ddb58.jpg

 

^This.

 

I have same as adam c using flyrx7 pod with stock ecu and few mods. may add WB mounted on the pillar

 

Interesting... Why do you need a WB on a stock ECU? Are you boosting past 10 psi?

 

Figured I'd monitor it as I add mods as a precaution. Also thinking about turning up the boost a bit. Are you suggesting I don't get a WB?

 

I suggest you get a wideband when you get a programmable ECU. Otherwise you are wasting your money.

BTW- what I am saying between the lines is that don't up the boost without an ECU... The STOCK ECU runs rich enough to support boltons as long as the boost is kept at 10 PSI. Go above 10 and you are begging for blown engine WB or not.

 

I know what you mean. Its more of a plan for the future thing. I like to know exactly what my car is doing. I know the stock ecu can handle bolt ons as long as you watch CFM....which is why I was thinking about adding the WB. Numerous posts about upping stock to 12psi, which I prob won't do, but adding a WB would be able to monitor for that too. I'm more so planning on going down the "add bolt ons, watch AFR, control boost at 10-8-10" route. Are you saying you think its a waste of money bc you can add as many bolt ons as you want, the stock ecu runs rich enough?

 

If you stay at stock boost then yes. But then again it doesn't hurt to monitor just in case you have an oddball scenario such a low fuel pressure which can cause a lean condition. Keep in mind that scenario is independent of mods.


In order to truly make an informed decision whether you need to monitor something based on a modification you have to understand what that modification does. For example, let's say you change out your IC. A decent upgrade will result in two things: lower IAT's and a lower pressure drop (increased boost). The lower pressure drop can actually cause you an engine because the turbos will now be supplying a higher boost level at the UIM. I've personally seen a pressure drop of 2 psi. Meaning my car was boosting 10 psi before the mod and after it was 12. Ok so the fix is to lower the boost back down which is great because now the turbos have to work less hard to achieve the desired boost level. Less hard equates to lower AIT's and less turbo wear. Next is the lower AIT's due to the better cooling capability of the new IC. What is there to worry about? All you are doing is mimicking a colder day. For example lets say you are monitoring a stock car's AIT's and you take it for a spin on a 80 deg F heat and you take notice that you AIT's are in the 120's F... Ok 6 months from now you take you car out again but this time it's 50F outside and well your AIT's are now in the 80's. Are you going to worry that your 100% stock car is going to blow on a colder day? I wouldn't. That is the samething your upgraded IC is doing, instead of your AIT being at 120F it might be at 100F. Again as long as you are still boosting stock levels.

 

How is it to read the a/f ratio on an analog gauge?

 

I agree with you with the addition that even bad fuel can cause fluctuations in you AFR readings and some other things. Same addition would be a fuel pressure gauge and egt gauge. . Monitoring those could save an engine as a lot of the failures are caused by fuel starvation at a sharp turn or similar circumstances

Personally I would go with a defi zd monitor.. compact small with capabilities of everything u ll ever need..

Mounting solutions are not available so you will have to get creative

 

Have not driven the car with these gauges yet, should be able to in a couple of weeks hopefully. I'm more after the warning light that gets enable during WOT, probably gonna ignore the needle movement during regular driving and send the signal to my datalogit.

 

I know what you mean. After the 3 mod rule was thrown out years ago and just keeping stock boost was the way to go, I was still curious on how the AFRs were with different mods. I'd rather error on the side of caution and get an WB to monitor than just keeping the boost controlled. AFRs are effected by back pressure of exhaust gases left after combustion.....it's all about CFM....leading me down the WB trail in case of an oddball scenario (like you stated). Thank you for the advice, I won't be so hung up on a WB.