+1

 

Why does the ECU matter? Simply because the PFC only has three ignition channels? If you knew the IGN-1A coil, and how it's been used with the PFC for several years now, you would know ECU make and configuration is a moot point.

Username Jalai on EFI101 forums has done his own independent testing a of many inductive coils. He's produced amp draw and mJ output information for these coils at various voltage inputs. This info was posted on page 5 of this thread. AEM supplies basic mJ output information, though they do not list at what input values that output is obtained. Lance Nist at Pantera EFI has posted quite a bit of information about the coils on EFI101 and yellowbullet. I would argue that the IGN-1A is one of the best documented inductive coils on the market. You just have to be open to receiving the information and not bent on defending your preferred combination of parts. You say the HKS Twin Power is proven. I'd agree that is does well when coupled with good condition coils, which are not always a given. My question is, where is the documentation of output of the Twin Power? I've looked and never found anything. What is the mJ output, what is the amp draw at various input voltages?

Sadly, I have to agree. Just spent time with a car this passed weekend that the owner had installed a set of IGN-1A coils on. The install was basically botched and we had to spend some time troubleshooting. This is why it's a good idea to offer proven components, at a reasonable price, that make installation a plug-in affair. Just like the HKS Twin Power, when purchased with a harness, the IGN-1A coils can be installed in a matter of minutes.

I'd guess that cheaper estimation doesn't include the cost of new OE coils? Also, you're far more dexterous than I if you're swapping those OE coils without removing the upper.

Congrats. You could of done that quite easily with less expense and fewer components with only the IGN-1A coils. I'll say again, the IGN (AEM's dumb) coil is not the coil to have when you desire to use a CD ignition. The IGN-CD is specifically wound for use with CD ignition.

You're selling Kool-aid yourself. It's just a different flavor. For good or bad, everyone can have an opinion. Some think outside the box, are informed, and worth listening to.

 

Read bumbpstarts post.


Are you serious? That would be after making or puchasing a custom bracket, coils, plug wires and harness. Then removing the UIM to get the OEM coils out, another project that a lot should not attempt. There is absolutely no part of this that takes a few minutes.

Never once have I had to buy a new set of coils. I have replaced a corroded leading and a few melted trailings that failed due to customer wiring jobs. Installation of the Twin Power does not require installation of new OEM coils. Just another added benefit.


You might want to consider becoming a forum vendor if you are going to continue to try to push your products and services on forum members. Would not want you to find yourself in hot water for violation of forum rules.

Good luck with your product.

 

My friend as it seems I cannot buy from C.Luwig since he is not answering my emails two weeks now.
Anywhere else i can buy those coils?
Thanks

 

Have you tried PM'ing C. Ludwig?

 

^I would try to PM Chris...maybe your emails are going to "spam" folders since your out of the country?

Just posted the following in my build thread... for the record I'm running Haltech PS2000.

Got around to mounting the AEM coils on the PS/AC bracket to be nice and close to the plugs. Decided to use metric M6 bolts and drill & tap the bracket to mount in 3 locations. The center bolt came short so I took some aluminum rod, drilled and tapped it all the way through to make a nice fixed spacer in the center for the coil to mount to. A lot of grinding, cutting and sanding to make sure the coils don't touch the bracket... now it's ready for fresh powdercoat.

 

I did. I also understand dwell time, duty cycle, and math. I've explained all this before on this forum. Years ago, most likely. So here's a refresher for those new to the game and wishing to parrot something else. On a 4-channel system, with universal dwell control, we set the IGN-1A coil to 4.5ms charge time. This is a setting that provides around 120mJ output. Max duty cycle at 8000 rpm is 60%, so we're not even beginning to work the coil hard.

Now on a 3-channel system, we obviously double the duty cycle on the leading coils, as Bumpstart is saying, since we're firing those coils twice as often. We recommend settings for the PFC/Datalogit that produce the charge time v. RPM curve shown below. Duty cycle for leading and trailing are also shown.



As shown, at 8000 RPM, leading charge time does need to drop to 3.5 ms. At this charge time, the coil is still producing around 100mJ of energy. Since most street-use combinations have a power curve that falls off precipitously above this rev range, there's not much use worrying about what is happening at 10k. If you're making power at 10k, you're most likely not using a PFC. If you are, then you may indeed need to look at an alternate ignition system.

At any rate, the math is simple and shows that this coil will work quite well in a wastespark application. One of the unique qualities of the coil is that it was originally designed for use in a 2-stroke application where duty cycle requirements demand a coil that can build a strong charge quickly. That's what this coil does. Bumpstart said, "the mercury coil will just have to be happy with 3.5 ms or less that can be fed at high rpms". I submit that it is quite happy at 3.5ms at high revs and the guys that are running them with the PFC seem to agree.

I'm still waiting on documentation on the output potential of the Twin Power. Anything?

 

Yes i pm him through the forum here and through his company website but i'm not getting any answers for weeks now.

 

I will be doing pretty much the same thing, except using the upper mounting points from the PS pump. Since mine is deleted, and I retain my A/C, it will serve as a perfect position.

I will post pictures upon completion.

 

For those looking to do a mount similar to what is pictured above, I would encourage you to talk to Brandon at CJ Motorsports (username oorx7). I sent him some coils last week. He's working on a billet bracket to do a similar mounting scheme for his own car with intent to produce them. The idea is to keep the coils as close to the plugs as possible to eliminate the long wires associated with mounting them in lieu of the cruise module. Like anything CJ does, it will be top notch quality, I'm sure.

 

If you use the right wire the difference in length is absolutely a moot point unless you're mounting them in the passenger seat. For the wires I do I'm getting 40-50Ω for stock length wires and 90-100Ω for the cruise location. Considering most generic "performance wires" are in the Thousands (let alone OEM wire) it's really splitting hairs.

I guess location matters if you're not using quality plug wires... but who would go through all this effort and use cheap wire

 

Hope I don't get in trouble for posting these...prototype from a mystery vendor...=D





Last I heard they're already ready to ship them like...tomorrow...

 

Ludwig, you da man.

 

Plug wire performance is about more than resistance. If you were only concerned with resistance, you'd crimp a length of 0g silver wire to each end and be done with it. My main concern with long plug wires is EMI/RFI. Having 30" wires laying parallel on top of each other is just not good practice. Sometimes there is simply no way around a situation like this and compromises are made. Personal preference is a shorter wire for a cleaner look. But that preference is entirely subjective.

 

The EMI output on the MSD Super Conductor wire is quite low, I haven't run into any EMF (or other) related issues using that wire and I've been using it for years on many different builds. I'm not sure why you think it's not "good practice" to lay wires next to each other, but that's what wire separators are for. Not trying to bust your *****, but it really boils down to 'looks' with the right wire

 

Hi guys,

I've installed these coils on my FD, but I don't feel I'm getting the best out of them. I run a power FC and have datalogit. Could anyone advise/help me so I can changethe settings on the datalogit toget the best out of these coils, as I haven't been able to work out the settings on the Apexi for them yet.

 

Parts:

(2) 1/4" threaded rod cut to length.
(4) 1/4" bolts, washers, and cap bolts
(8) 1.5" aluminum spacers from www.mcmaster.com

The holes from the Power Steering pump mount line up perfectly. Too easy. The OEM filler neck will not fit with this solution. I am making a custom one anyway.

 

Finally had Chris Ludwig make the custom length & boot spark plug wires for the AEM coils...

 

So you have all 4 coils just cantilevered off two M6 threaded rods bolted to the PS pump mounting plate? Doesn't seem all that robust of a mounting solution without the back end supported in some way.

 

I'll let you know how it works out. A rear brace would be easy to fabricate, if necessary.

 

For those wanting to put the coils in a similar spot, where the AC and/or PS would be, contact Brandon (user name oorx7) at CJ Motorsports. He's been working on a billet bracket.

Also, the Magnecores, built to order by Magnecore, in Panda's post are built for less than others are selling the MSD wires.

 

Wouldn't the differences in wire length create some kind of un-even spark performance between the front and rear rotors ? Maybe if both leading wires we're the same length and both trailing the same, not both L & T to rotor number 1 being short and both wires to rotors number 2 being longer.. Is it irrelevant or would same length wires be ultimately better..

 

It's pretty much irrelevant for wires of this type, length and service (finite rise time pulse). The 'juice' travels at a minimum of 60% to 70% of the speed of light and the difference in loss isn't significant on wires this short. Hope this helps.

 

"The 'juice' travels at a minimum of 60% to 70% of the speed of light and the difference in loss isn't significant on wires this short."

it isn't often that you get great laughs out of an ignition thread... thanks for that, SOL.

i would like to add one consideration w re to the IGN-1A coils...

boot quality, fit and size are very important given the output.

short sloppy fit boots provide an easier avenue for the elec power.

it is easy to go overboard also. the primary plug wire kit i bought from Lance had plug boots that covered all the porcelain. i am not running them as i knew i would never be able to get them off the plugs. there is probably a happy medium. currently i am running some MSD boots w Lance's primary wire and coil boots.

Magnecor is also an excellent option and a good value given they are custom made for your specific app.

howard

 

Made my little mounting bracket.