We've never used the Series 1. Have you called AEM? Every time we've had a question that we couldnt figure out they'be been more than helpful. If it's a PnP you should at least get waste spark, so that will plug in directly to our PnP coil harness, and hopefully you can send the 4th signal wire through a configurable GPIO or coil out wire/pin and into the engine bay ... then just butt crimp to the wire coming off our connector and cut the jumper (follow the instructions in the manual, it's really easy). But give AEM a ring, they're very helpful and should be able to tell you if you can snag an existing engine bay wire for direct fire.

-Heath

 

I did call aem. after a bit, i think we finally got it figured out.

thanks

 

Which wire did they have you running the 4th signal wire through? Do you have our PnP harness? Shoot me an email if you get a chance (info@sakebombgarage.com)
-Heath

 

Appreciate that. But if you need help, let me know. Unlike some of our vendors, I'm more interested in helping the community than any business interest. And I do have the AEM experience.

Originator v. Imitator.

 

PM sent.

 

Gents,

did a small write up on getting the IGN-1a coils to work with the AEM EMS.
hopefully this helps some of you that are getting stuck.

https://www.rx7club.com/aem-ems-81/i...rking-1073653/

 

Very interested in write up, can you link us to attachment or have you posted on forum.

found link

https://www.rx7club.com/aem-ems-81/i...rking-1073653/

 

yep, im an idiot. lol. added it to my post as well.

 

WP_20141026_09_35_20_Pro by Tom Kinsman, on Flickr

 

^ Wow that looks clean! To bad I am LHD!

 

Any suggestions or how-to's on testing these coils to see if i have a bad one?

thanks gents.

 

If you have no spark output from a coil, the simplest way is to swap that coil with one of the others and see if the condition follows the coil.

 

right.
but i am getting spark on all 4, but would like to see if one of the coils is potentially dying and would like to see if i can ohm them out, but for some reason i can't get any resistance readings from them.

 

If you want to test them, you'd really need to use an oscilloscope. You could evaluate the input signal, power supply and ground, and output.

Unfortunately because the igniter is built in, testing the resistance isn't going to yield reliable results.

What is wrong that makes you think you may have a bad coil?

 

I just finished installing IGN-1A coils from DIY auto tune and some Magnacor KV85 plug wires on my NA 20b and all I can say is hell yea! She is finally purring like a kitten with no hicuups or missfires. I had been running some used Ls1 coils but started having problems with break up over 5k. Can't wait to drive it again when the weather clears. I'll post pics soon of the bracket I made since I have them mounted in the power steering location.

 

I ordered some of these for x-mas gift to myself and WOW what good parts. I got the whole kit (bracket, coils, harness) all looks good hooked right up. set the coils up in power fc like they said to and brap brap brap. way better than stock. Thanks again!

 

Just a heads up to everyone interested in the IGN-1A setup for their FD... the most costly part of the kit (labor/cost wise) has been the coil harness. We may have come up with a way to produce them in a more cost effective manner... stay tuned, we should (keeping my fingers crossed) have something new to release in the next couple weeks. Keep those IGN-1A conversions coming... it's inspiring to see all of the various mounting solutions for the FD

FD3S: Complete Package - IGN-1A Ignition Upgrade Kit + LHD Mount - SakeBomb Garage LLC




-Heath

 

I would be all over this if it was a bit more cost effective... It may even push off some other modifications!

 

damn.....

 

just ordered my kit last night

 

This mounting kit looks BAD ***!

 

^Who makes this kit?!^

 

^ I've always liked the coil on plug concepts for rotarys but this one sticks the coils out too far. The coils would interfere with A/C, power steering hoses and the steering linkage for left hand drive cars. I tried to do something similar a couple years ago but didn't have the room so I turned the coils around and had them mounted near the block with the leads pointing out. The thick center plate of the 20b gives you wider space plus it already has bolt holes to mount whatever bracket you design. Someone needs to finally put something together for the masses that works. Long spark plug leads always have a chance to arc.

 

There are also heat and vibration issues associated with attaching them in that location. A setup without wires would be cheaper I suppose, but functionally there is no advantage compared to high quality wires.

Arcing is a thing of the past with any decent wire, as well as EMF and resistance. The wire we use in our kits has two thick silicone insulators (inner and outer) which do not break down over time and can withstand immense heat (even without heat sleeves). It's specially wound to suppress EMF while remaining ultra-low in resistance. For instance the relatively "long" wires we use to reach to the cruise location only have a resistance in the 120-180ohm range... in the ignition arena that's extraordinarily low. We've run these same wires for years and retested them and have only gained 10-20 ohms from what it was when new. And the flip side is the coils get to live in a nice cool vibration free environment (as well as keeping your coil harness heat free).

Coil-on-plug does look cool, I'll admit, but from a functional standpoint you're not gaining anything performance wise, and are adding heat and vibration to the coils, both of which will reduce the lifespan. These coils have a massive aluminum heat sink grid underneath... they get hot and reed cool air, especially when you're driving them to their full potential.

-Heath

 

^ Yea the EMI I think is what was causing me problems with my ignition. My engine was always running different for whatever reason. I had a universal set of Summit Racing wires that I made for the LS1 coils. They virtually had no resistence at all (which is what I thought was best years ago). Then I found this info here recently and made a change.

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm


Truthfully I really dont think there's much heat near the plugs because of all the turbulence you would get from the ground while driving plus heat rises. Plus its about the only way to keep all accessories like power steering, A/C, and cruise. There isn't much air flow on top of the engine with the hood shut. Cruise location is probably the coolest spot in the engine bay (provided you dont need cruise control). Cruise is one thing I can't be without because I have driven my car cross country.