7 Eleven, not just for Big Gulps, SPARK PLUGS
Just putting it out there, I was the one who had the NGK 6601 plugs machined down the 2 mm on the collar to make them fit perfect. If there is enough interest, the machine shop owner is a friend of mine and I could take orders for plugs from everyone like a group buy, order a whole bunch of stock plugs at a discount, pay him to machine them, and make some profit for my trouble (a lot of work and hassle). They still would be quite expensive since the plugs are expensive to start with, around $22, and the machining would likely be about $20 per plug or even slightly more. Once you add shipping, tax in some states, and the profit, I'm thinking likely around $75 per plug. Not cheap at all but you only need two and they should last for quite a while, unlike the leading plugs most of us use.
Just a thought.
Mike
Just a thought.
Mike
Last edited by mikejokich; Nov 20, 2024 at 04:58 PM. Reason: added something
Since this thread bumped I wanted to share that I had my car tuned in mid December with Denso IRE01-31 in the primary location and R6601-11 with trimmed shoulders in the trailing location. The car made 498hp/435tq on an E35 blend at 16# and 466hp/395tq on pump at 14#. There were zero complaints from the tuner on the plug combination and he was happy with them.
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Pretty interesting video with relevant info related to this topic!
https://youtu.be/n_SW4o9bPqc?si=cvsFqmT8z-NFjyvQ
https://youtu.be/n_SW4o9bPqc?si=cvsFqmT8z-NFjyvQ
Since this thread bumped I wanted to share that I had my car tuned in mid December with Denso IRE01-31 in the primary location and R6601-11 with trimmed shoulders in the trailing location. The car made 498hp/435tq on an E35 blend at 16# and 466hp/395tq on pump at 14#. There were zero complaints from the tuner on the plug combination and he was happy with them.
@mikejokich just wanted to mention I am definitely interested in purchasing machined r6601 plugs. If anyone else is interested they should post so that it is known. Otherwise they will not get made.
Just wanted to add that the NGK 6601-11 with the factory crush washer in the trailing are working out exceptional well for me! I am not sure anyone would need to do anything fancy, at least in the trailing location. I'm using Denso Iridium 5722 IRE01-34 11 in the leading gapped to .023. Power is really clean. Tuner mentioned it was much cleaner then my older setups and knock was extremely quite. Very very easy 600 whp on E85 with quite a bit more in it. Also limited it to 8k. I only stopped because my CPR motor only has about 1300 miles or so on it. Highlights of my setup are CPR built motor (thanks Howard!), Motec M150, M&W CDI and BW 9180SXE with 1.10 AR.
Very nice. I think the gap on the 6601 is more like 1.2-1.4mm range by the looks. The 0.4 must be a typo in the spec. Im also building a car and have a M&W CDI for it. For the leading it seems by reading this very good thread the IRE01-10 is among the best option. As some say on trailing the strap could become overheated therefore the S31A or 6601-10 could be a solution. The only doubt I had was that its wide gap could damage the CDI or Coils.
I might be thinking of this the wrong way, but it seems like a colder spark plug would transfer more heat into the rotor housing. I agree the tip of the plug should run cooler, but can someone help explain how that might affect the thermal expansion of the rotor housing near the spark plug opening?
Also, this thread from Barry Bordes seems relevant, I forget if I've linked it here before.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...em-fix-989811/
GucciBravo, I've run ECUs and ignition coils and spark plugs on desktop test benches in the past, using simulated crank inputs to trick the ECU into triggering the coils. You're absolutely correct that the spark plugs get warm. I suspect it should be possible to measure the difference between CDI and IGN1A without even running an engine.
Also, this thread from Barry Bordes seems relevant, I forget if I've linked it here before.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...em-fix-989811/
GucciBravo, I've run ECUs and ignition coils and spark plugs on desktop test benches in the past, using simulated crank inputs to trick the ECU into triggering the coils. You're absolutely correct that the spark plugs get warm. I suspect it should be possible to measure the difference between CDI and IGN1A without even running an engine.
Here is an example of a M10 plug with an instrumented ground electrode.
Unlike intuition would tell, the peak temperature of the ground strap is not reached at peak torque or at peak power, at least not in the engine we ran this one in. it is a 500c/cylinder turbo DI engine, central injector and plug between exh valves. produces around 240hp/l on pump fuel. Y axis is bmep in bar. As one can see the hottest area is the point with the highest power while being stochiometric, when going richer the ground strap seems to benefit quite a bit from the cooling effect. the white islolines are lambda btw.
Apart from the visible design changes that could affect the heat transfer, the inside of the ground electrode can also be made in different ways giving more or less heat transfer. On this example of x ray of a failed electrode the center of the electrode is copper and the outer sheat is inconel and topped with a Platina tip. changing the cladding thickness of the inconel or the copper length or any other combination of materials has a big effect on how hot the tip gets. the same logic applied for the center electrode.
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