How to value your FD
I came to the thread to see the discussion about the True Mileage Unknown VR auto FD pulling $37k on BAT. I never thought I would see the day, especially in the current market climate. Further proof I am getting old. A decade ago I would have said the buyer is the biggest moron on the planet. Now, I opt to get in my tiptronic 993 more often than any of my manual cars for short trips. Convenience and comfort sure take a priority as one ages. I still raise hell in my FD, so I'm not that old yet. However, if there is even a slight chance of traffic, its a no for me.
As a lurker on this thread, I also saw that VR TMU auto car bidding in real-time. Tbh I totally understand the pricing.
The car was clean and the mileage was not really a TMU. Carfax keeps good records on that and given that the last known verified carfax reading was not too far in the distant past - chances are the buyer got themselves a low mileage queen.
Additionally, as age (gracefully), I am realizing that sometimes I just want to drive my FD without shifting. As WE all continue to age, it’s a certainty that low mileage autos will come into their own sooner rather than later.
Now let’s talk about the RHD Sunburst Yellow that just posted on BAT.
phew.
The car was clean and the mileage was not really a TMU. Carfax keeps good records on that and given that the last known verified carfax reading was not too far in the distant past - chances are the buyer got themselves a low mileage queen.
Additionally, as age (gracefully), I am realizing that sometimes I just want to drive my FD without shifting. As WE all continue to age, it’s a certainty that low mileage autos will come into their own sooner rather than later.
Now let’s talk about the RHD Sunburst Yellow that just posted on BAT.
phew.
Last edited by Aarkaah; Jan 30, 2024 at 02:57 PM.
Doing all the work your self, the low end these days is around $3500.00 if you buy a good used transmission from a reputable seller. The real challenge for LHD is the clutch and brake pedal, not as challenging for RHD. That $3500.00 can turn into $5-6K+ in a hurry depending on clutch and a few other things. I would love to drive a low mileage sequential twin car with a DCT conversion. With the cost being likelh $3-5k more than a good manual conversion it would really be worth considering. The fact I type that is further proof of me being old.
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 367
Likes: 258
From: Allentown PA/ Three Mile Island
IIRC my manual conversion specific parts were under $4k. There are different ways to do it though. I did mine when I replaced my original engine with a new one that featured the manual rear iron, so there was a little less complexity IMO. IIRC I only ended up having one or two connectors repinned, but I am unsure of what changes if any would need to be made on one of the RHD offerings.
If I ever have the space and resources (read: monies), I'd try to hunt down the other three SSM base automatics they made for 1994. (and subsequently convert them)
If I ever have the space and resources (read: monies), I'd try to hunt down the other three SSM base automatics they made for 1994. (and subsequently convert them)

Last edited by SETaylor; Jan 31, 2024 at 10:07 AM.
Originally Posted by TwinCharged RX7
It's no longer under $4k unless you score some great deals and do all the work yourself. That was from the days of cheap transmissions and $100 LHD clutch pedals.
$750....Pedal set
$475....Diff, 4.1
$200.....Drive shaft w bolt set
$1500....Transmission w bolt set
$125.......OEM clutch
$200........OEM flywheel
$250........Clutch hydraulics....Hard lines, Flex line, Firewall / trans line holders, Master/slave cylinders
$750........Gauge Cluster
$125........Starter
$200........Shift lever w ****
$150........OEM ECU
More pics as parts are remov
Frankly, if someone cobbled up paddle shifters for the FD, I'd happily do the testing. I've toyed with getting an MX-5 after the FD, and yo-yo between the auto/man. Paddles are v.nice, I have in my 2.5L Outback where they are a waste, and would be great fun in either the FD or MX.
Are we talking taking an automatic RHD all the way to an LHD manual?
Also, many LHD automatics also came with the automatic HVAC. Switching out the ecu can orphan some of the wiring for the HVAC system.
Also there are variation on which plugs going into the back of the gauge cluster hold the automatic pins.
The plugs going into the back of an RHD cluster also connect differently to the other harnesses.
Also, many LHD automatics also came with the automatic HVAC. Switching out the ecu can orphan some of the wiring for the HVAC system.
Also there are variation on which plugs going into the back of the gauge cluster hold the automatic pins.
The plugs going into the back of an RHD cluster also connect differently to the other harnesses.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,001
Likes: 379
From: Aurora, Ontario, Canada
Keep the stock FD tranny in there. It's better built overall.
No, I actually enjoy my manual FD since my Daily's are all auto. I am keeping the car quiet and with a cat though. I've done my time with straight pipe rotaries and I can say the drive up to the dragon will be much more tolerable in a near stock sounding car with A/C......
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
You would think. But it's not designed for the power output of our cars. You'd be stressing it alot even if the FD is in stock form. Plus, it's got an inherent design flaw which unless you take it to a tranny specialist, it'll keep rearing it's ugly head. Main reason why I got rid of my RX8 R3. Only had 105k km's on the clock and the stupid thing would pop out of 3rd gear. I thought it was something I did wrong. As it turns out, it's a common occurrence and not something that can be fixed by just replacing the tranny. Because eventually it'll happen to the next one you put in.
Keep the stock FD tranny in there. It's better built overall.
Keep the stock FD tranny in there. It's better built overall.
the S2 6 speed does do all of that, actually the S1 is funnier, there is a bolt on the side of it, that seems to be irresistible to mechanics and if you loosen it, it disassembles the whole trans on the inside
Red R2 with ~11k miles. Parked under cover in climate controlled facility for 10 years. Consider it a non-runner / ran-when-parked case. A+ condition otherwise. Two owners. All the paperwork. What's it worth?








