How to remove the transmission...
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 158
Likes: 63
From: Maryland
How to remove the transmission...
Hello guys! Version #345,527,654 on how to drop the transmission and how to release the throw-out bearing from the pressure plate ring. I'm replacing the tranny, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and rebuilding the shifter. The car came with the B&M short shifter and I hate it to be honest. Also, I have a legit question... The new tranny came with a new "Spec clutch kit" but I've seen bad reviews. Should I say f* it and install that one or should I re-use the one the car had? She's the 470 whp but I don't do Vargas burnouts lol!
Like always, I hope you guys enjoy the video. I always try to make it fun but with a lot of useful info. Thank you in advance!
Like always, I hope you guys enjoy the video. I always try to make it fun but with a lot of useful info. Thank you in advance!
Nice video!
Notes/tips as I'm going through it -
- The jute padding that was under the rubber boots around the shifter is NOT supposed to go there. Once all the boots are on the transmission the jute pad goes on top - between the boots and the top plastic panel.
- No reason to mark the driveshaft to the flange on an RX-7. The driveshaft is balanced by itself, where it bolts to the diff makes no difference. I've done MANY clutch jobs and have had zero problems.
- Always a good idea to remove the fill plugs on the trans first, then the drain plug. In your case since you are swapping the trans it's not as big of a deal, but it sucks if you drain your trans and can't get the fill plug off!
- DK is for Daikin, that's the parent company of Exedy. They're one of the bigger Japanese OEM clutch manufacturers. I don't think the clutch itself is an Exedy but whoever made it used them to make the friction component. I've never seen a clutch like that with pucks on one side and full face on the other. There's also 3 grooves in the pressure plate, kind of like a slotted brake rotor, which is interesting. That's a VERY JDM clutch and would probably take some digging to find the manufacturer. If it was holding power I would probably run it, it's worlds better quality-wise than that Spec clutch for sure. If it was slipping you need to look at other options.
- You typically don't have to remove the downpipe to remove the trans but if you're single turbo that's a different case. Stock twin turbo you can leave the downpipe. Actually on a stock twin turbo car you can leave the cat-back on too.
- Harbor Freight makes a transmission jack that makes install/removal of the trans SO EASY -
https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb...ack-61232.html
Costs a few bucks but it's totally worth it. I wish I had one of those YEARS ago, beats wrestling with the transmission on a floor jack and trying to get it lined up. BTW the ratchet strap it comes with is worthless, just remove it, it's in the way and you really don't need it on an FD.
If you don't have a stainless braided clutch line I would recommend getting one. Heavier pressure plates put more of a load on that rubber stock line and now that you have a new slave and master that will very likely fail on you.
I saw a number of plastic vacuum T's in the engine bay around the exhaust - that was probably done by the previous owner, but try and minimize how many T's there are in the system. If you do have to run them, use brass or metal T's, the plastic ones will crack over time from the heat from the exhaust/turbo. If they go to anything important (MAP sensor) you can blow your engine if that fails.
Thanks for the video!
Dale
Notes/tips as I'm going through it -
- The jute padding that was under the rubber boots around the shifter is NOT supposed to go there. Once all the boots are on the transmission the jute pad goes on top - between the boots and the top plastic panel.
- No reason to mark the driveshaft to the flange on an RX-7. The driveshaft is balanced by itself, where it bolts to the diff makes no difference. I've done MANY clutch jobs and have had zero problems.
- Always a good idea to remove the fill plugs on the trans first, then the drain plug. In your case since you are swapping the trans it's not as big of a deal, but it sucks if you drain your trans and can't get the fill plug off!
- DK is for Daikin, that's the parent company of Exedy. They're one of the bigger Japanese OEM clutch manufacturers. I don't think the clutch itself is an Exedy but whoever made it used them to make the friction component. I've never seen a clutch like that with pucks on one side and full face on the other. There's also 3 grooves in the pressure plate, kind of like a slotted brake rotor, which is interesting. That's a VERY JDM clutch and would probably take some digging to find the manufacturer. If it was holding power I would probably run it, it's worlds better quality-wise than that Spec clutch for sure. If it was slipping you need to look at other options.
- You typically don't have to remove the downpipe to remove the trans but if you're single turbo that's a different case. Stock twin turbo you can leave the downpipe. Actually on a stock twin turbo car you can leave the cat-back on too.
- Harbor Freight makes a transmission jack that makes install/removal of the trans SO EASY -
https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb...ack-61232.html
Costs a few bucks but it's totally worth it. I wish I had one of those YEARS ago, beats wrestling with the transmission on a floor jack and trying to get it lined up. BTW the ratchet strap it comes with is worthless, just remove it, it's in the way and you really don't need it on an FD.
If you don't have a stainless braided clutch line I would recommend getting one. Heavier pressure plates put more of a load on that rubber stock line and now that you have a new slave and master that will very likely fail on you.
I saw a number of plastic vacuum T's in the engine bay around the exhaust - that was probably done by the previous owner, but try and minimize how many T's there are in the system. If you do have to run them, use brass or metal T's, the plastic ones will crack over time from the heat from the exhaust/turbo. If they go to anything important (MAP sensor) you can blow your engine if that fails.
Thanks for the video!
Dale
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 158
Likes: 63
From: Maryland
Nice video!
Notes/tips as I'm going through it -
- The jute padding that was under the rubber boots around the shifter is NOT supposed to go there. Once all the boots are on the transmission the jute pad goes on top - between the boots and the top plastic panel.
- No reason to mark the driveshaft to the flange on an RX-7. The driveshaft is balanced by itself, where it bolts to the diff makes no difference. I've done MANY clutch jobs and have had zero problems.
- Always a good idea to remove the fill plugs on the trans first, then the drain plug. In your case since you are swapping the trans it's not as big of a deal, but it sucks if you drain your trans and can't get the fill plug off!
- DK is for Daikin, that's the parent company of Exedy. They're one of the bigger Japanese OEM clutch manufacturers. I don't think the clutch itself is an Exedy but whoever made it used them to make the friction component. I've never seen a clutch like that with pucks on one side and full face on the other. There's also 3 grooves in the pressure plate, kind of like a slotted brake rotor, which is interesting. That's a VERY JDM clutch and would probably take some digging to find the manufacturer. If it was holding power I would probably run it, it's worlds better quality-wise than that Spec clutch for sure. If it was slipping you need to look at other options.
- You typically don't have to remove the downpipe to remove the trans but if you're single turbo that's a different case. Stock twin turbo you can leave the downpipe. Actually on a stock twin turbo car you can leave the cat-back on too.
- Harbor Freight makes a transmission jack that makes install/removal of the trans SO EASY -
https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb...ack-61232.html
Costs a few bucks but it's totally worth it. I wish I had one of those YEARS ago, beats wrestling with the transmission on a floor jack and trying to get it lined up. BTW the ratchet strap it comes with is worthless, just remove it, it's in the way and you really don't need it on an FD.
If you don't have a stainless braided clutch line I would recommend getting one. Heavier pressure plates put more of a load on that rubber stock line and now that you have a new slave and master that will very likely fail on you.
I saw a number of plastic vacuum T's in the engine bay around the exhaust - that was probably done by the previous owner, but try and minimize how many T's there are in the system. If you do have to run them, use brass or metal T's, the plastic ones will crack over time from the heat from the exhaust/turbo. If they go to anything important (MAP sensor) you can blow your engine if that fails.
Thanks for the video!
Dale
Notes/tips as I'm going through it -
- The jute padding that was under the rubber boots around the shifter is NOT supposed to go there. Once all the boots are on the transmission the jute pad goes on top - between the boots and the top plastic panel.
- No reason to mark the driveshaft to the flange on an RX-7. The driveshaft is balanced by itself, where it bolts to the diff makes no difference. I've done MANY clutch jobs and have had zero problems.
- Always a good idea to remove the fill plugs on the trans first, then the drain plug. In your case since you are swapping the trans it's not as big of a deal, but it sucks if you drain your trans and can't get the fill plug off!
- DK is for Daikin, that's the parent company of Exedy. They're one of the bigger Japanese OEM clutch manufacturers. I don't think the clutch itself is an Exedy but whoever made it used them to make the friction component. I've never seen a clutch like that with pucks on one side and full face on the other. There's also 3 grooves in the pressure plate, kind of like a slotted brake rotor, which is interesting. That's a VERY JDM clutch and would probably take some digging to find the manufacturer. If it was holding power I would probably run it, it's worlds better quality-wise than that Spec clutch for sure. If it was slipping you need to look at other options.
- You typically don't have to remove the downpipe to remove the trans but if you're single turbo that's a different case. Stock twin turbo you can leave the downpipe. Actually on a stock twin turbo car you can leave the cat-back on too.
- Harbor Freight makes a transmission jack that makes install/removal of the trans SO EASY -
https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb...ack-61232.html
Costs a few bucks but it's totally worth it. I wish I had one of those YEARS ago, beats wrestling with the transmission on a floor jack and trying to get it lined up. BTW the ratchet strap it comes with is worthless, just remove it, it's in the way and you really don't need it on an FD.
If you don't have a stainless braided clutch line I would recommend getting one. Heavier pressure plates put more of a load on that rubber stock line and now that you have a new slave and master that will very likely fail on you.
I saw a number of plastic vacuum T's in the engine bay around the exhaust - that was probably done by the previous owner, but try and minimize how many T's there are in the system. If you do have to run them, use brass or metal T's, the plastic ones will crack over time from the heat from the exhaust/turbo. If they go to anything important (MAP sensor) you can blow your engine if that fails.
Thanks for the video!
Dale
The clutch was fine I just didn't like the feel of the pedal but the cmc was shot so... I might just sand the clutch, pressure plate an flywheel and reuse it.
I just got the cmc, slave and the braided line as well. That's going to be the next video.
Tony
Yeah a shot master cylinder will cause a lot of issues with clutch pedal feel. That clutch looks pretty new, it doesn't look to be worn down much at all.
Since you removed the clutch rod you will have to spend a little time adjusting that once the car is up and running. That will also impact how the clutch feels. Should have a small amount of free play at the top of the travel and the clutch engagement/disengagement should be around the middle of the travel of the clutch pedal.
Dale
Since you removed the clutch rod you will have to spend a little time adjusting that once the car is up and running. That will also impact how the clutch feels. Should have a small amount of free play at the top of the travel and the clutch engagement/disengagement should be around the middle of the travel of the clutch pedal.
Dale
Fun vid. Outside looking in a couple of thoughts....
*You might want to change the rear transmission seal. It’s not expensive and a 2 minute job.
*And I’m not sure exactly where you’ve placed those jack-stands. Looks like on the f and r subframes. If so I’d move them to the Mazda-recommended jacking points on the pinch welds. Way safer in IMO...for you and the car. Especially when wrestling the transmission and PPF back on. And you’ll likely have to put a little jack under the differential to get the studs to line up with the PPF holes. So you really need it stable.
*And you’ll need a pilot shaft. If you end up changing out the clutch I think most of the good clutch kits out there will come with one.
*You might want to change the rear transmission seal. It’s not expensive and a 2 minute job.
*And I’m not sure exactly where you’ve placed those jack-stands. Looks like on the f and r subframes. If so I’d move them to the Mazda-recommended jacking points on the pinch welds. Way safer in IMO...for you and the car. Especially when wrestling the transmission and PPF back on. And you’ll likely have to put a little jack under the differential to get the studs to line up with the PPF holes. So you really need it stable.
*And you’ll need a pilot shaft. If you end up changing out the clutch I think most of the good clutch kits out there will come with one.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Apr 25, 2020 at 02:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 158
Likes: 63
From: Maryland
Fun vid. Outside looking in a couple of thoughts....
*You might want to change the rear transmission seal. It’s not expensive and a 2 minute job.
*And I’m not sure exactly where you’ve placed those jack-stands. Looks like on the f and r subframes. If so I’d move them to the Mazda-recommended jacking points on the pinch welds. Way safer in IMO...for you and the car. Especially when wrestling the transmission and PPF back on. And you’ll likely have to put a little jack under the differential to get the studs to line up with the PPF holes. So you really need it stable.
*And you’ll need a pilot shaft. If you end up changing out the clutch I think most of the good clutch kits out there will come with one.
*You might want to change the rear transmission seal. It’s not expensive and a 2 minute job.
*And I’m not sure exactly where you’ve placed those jack-stands. Looks like on the f and r subframes. If so I’d move them to the Mazda-recommended jacking points on the pinch welds. Way safer in IMO...for you and the car. Especially when wrestling the transmission and PPF back on. And you’ll likely have to put a little jack under the differential to get the studs to line up with the PPF holes. So you really need it stable.
*And you’ll need a pilot shaft. If you end up changing out the clutch I think most of the good clutch kits out there will come with one.
Trending Topics
Maybe that’s where it all started?
Last edited by Sgtblue; Apr 28, 2020 at 04:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 158
Likes: 63
From: Maryland
47 here. Been into RX-7's since '96 when there was still some unsold '95's still on dealer lots, had an FC back then and got my FD in 2004.
Not on Insta but I blow up Tik Tok 24/7 at the club.
Dale
Not on Insta but I blow up Tik Tok 24/7 at the club.
Dale
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 158
Likes: 63
From: Maryland
I haven't mess with tik tok yet.
Well now...if we’re talk in’ first RX7s, I got mine brand new in 81. They were still considered pretty mysterious here in flyover. Some were convinced that the only thing that made them run was a midget witch-doctor under the hood shaking blood with a chicken leg. When it got cold in the winter I agreed.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Apr 29, 2020 at 10:44 AM.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 158
Likes: 63
From: Maryland
By the way. I edited the next video yesterday. Should go live on Friday PM. It's usually when the channel moves.
Well now...if we’re talk in’ first RX7s, I got mine brand new in 81. They were still considered pretty mysterious here in flyover. Some were convinced that the only thing that made them run was a midget witch-doctor under the hood shaking blood with a chicken leg. When it got cold in the winter I agreed.
I'm just a few years behind you then - got my first rotary in '84, it was a new GSL-SE, also my 1st new car. Up till then, I drove a gaggle of $100 crap piles, mostly GM, the last of which was a '74 Camaro
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 158
Likes: 63
From: Maryland
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Erifx
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
13
Jan 5, 2012 02:04 AM
7-sins
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
12
Jan 10, 2007 08:42 PM
